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Old 07-27-2013, 06:35 AM
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rust repairs

Hi guys, been awhile since I've posted been pretty busy, I have a few questions need to know what would be the best method to repair the rust holes in the lower corners of the doors on my 67 camaro? The holes are maybe the size of a quarter all four corners at the bottom only the rest is good. Also I'm going to be changing the roof be my first and I'm wondering do I replace the lead seems with more lead or is there something else I can do to put it back together at the seems? Thanks for any input you give.
Cole:pimp

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Old 07-27-2013, 06:38 AM
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And as soon as I get back in the house I will be posting pics and starting my project journal.


Cole
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:36 AM
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Hey Cole, I don't think I recall you posting before and then I looked at how many posts you had and yes you have been here before...LOL.

The rust repair on the doors depends on a lot of things. Even though the rusted area may only the size of a quarter, like many things in life, it's what's inside that counts. The first thing you would need to do is to remove the inner door panels and have a look at the inside of the door. Get a flash light, look for blistering, rusted discoloration, that type of thing. Feel the area if you can't really see what's going on in there. Also, check the bottom of the door seam itself, if there is rust or swelling of the seam, that will give you a good indication of what's inside.

In order to repair the rusted area, the rusted area would need to be cut out. Cut an area out with a cut off wheel, if you have one and use what you cut out as a template for your patch. Make the patch about 1/8th of an inch smaller than your template. The reason for this is that when you weld the new piece of metal in, you will have 1/16th of an inch of space all the way around the patch and with the expansion and fill you get from heat and the welding wire, this will help minimize warping. If the seams of the door skin are swelling or showing signs of rust, I usually (always) peel them back and sand blast the rusted seam. If you can, sandblasting the inside of the door skin would be a good idea as well, just to make sure that all the rust is gone. After you have the seams cleaned up, the inside of the door cleaned up, the patch welded in, I use a product called body panel adhesive and apply it to the peeled back seam (seam sealer will work as well and a lot of people use only that), gently tap the seam back in place. The outside of the door should have the welds ground flush, 2 coats of Epoxy primer applied (inside the door and outside, anywhere there is bare sand blasted metal) and smoothed by using filler followed by 2 more coats of Epoxy primer over the repaired area (the outside only, 2 coats over the inside should be plenty).

The rest is block sand, paint, or if you wish, you could use a 2K primer over top of the Epoxy, block sand and paint.

On the seams of the roof, although depending on the type of repair like a concours restoration, replacing the lead would be a good idea however, if this is an enjoy and drive car, replace the roof, 2 coats of Epoxy primer, repair the seam with filler followed by 2 to 3 more coats of Epoxy primer, your choice to use 2K primer or not, block sand and paint.

Hope this helps

Ray
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:43 AM
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Thank's Ray, yes this does help i have checked the doors the rest looks good going to remove them and do the repairs , oh not a concours restoration just a fun driver just want it to look decent i've had it so long it's time for me to go through it. and thank's again Ray i know i will be asking more questions as i move along.



Cole
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:46 AM
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Oh, Cole, I should have mentioned...with rust on all 4 corners it is a good idea to sand blast, often what sand blasting may reveal that the actual door frame and door skin may be rusted to the point of repairing may not be an option that you want to proceed with. Sometimes with rust to this extent, you may be better off replacing the door entirely. Now I'm not saying that your door is beyond repair however, if the drain holes at the bottom of the door have gotten plugged over the years and with rust on all 4 corners, there is that distinct possibity. Sand blasting will give you many of these answers.

The reason I mention this is that several years ago, I did a early 70's Nova. The car looked great, zero rust...until I started stripping off the old paint....it looked like minor rust on the bottom of the doors. I tried to wire wheel the rust off, I couldn't get it all removed...used a gentle sand blast on the bottom of the door frame and withing several seconds, the frame was exposed with holes everywhere. Rust is nasty, it can fool you by not looking real bad when it is...sometimes it can go the other way as well, what looks real bad is a straight forward repair. That's why it's always best to be sure that you have cleaned the entire area and use the proper materials to ensure that the rust doesn't come back.

Again, hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:59 AM
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Thank you Ray, need more rodders like you around yeah my plan is i am going to strip everything down i really want it right and clean it has been inside for the last 15 yrs, i knew some of the rust was there just as you said though , i have already found some i did'nt know was there part of it i guess, i thought about sandblasting also think i will i have a place right here by the house where i use to sandblast and paint pretty sure i can take my parts down there when i get them all off . I appreicate you Ray thank's.


Cole
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:21 AM
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:28 AM
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Always happy to help Cole, feel free to ask whenever you feel the need. I may not have all the answers but, if I don't, there are lots of guys here that would. For example, John Long who just subscribed. Whatever he says, you can generally take to the bank. If you get time Cole, check out his thread on the 53 Chevy convertible he's doing...very impressive.

Ray
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:23 AM
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Good advice as always Ray.

Cole, I don't know if you have ever replaced a roof panel on that body style Camaro, but if you haven't it is a bit of a trick to get off and on. There are several welds on the sides, in the drip rail area. I have found that the easiest way for me to replace the roof panel, is to take a cut off wheel (I personally like using a 4 1/2" grinder and cut off wheel for this step, but careful use of an air chisel would work also), and remove the bulk of the roof, cutting about 2" in from the outside edges. Once you get the bulk of the panel off it is easier (for me anyway) to get the edges where it is spot welded on the car because you are only dealing with small pieces instead of the whole panel. Again, personal preference, but I like to use a piece of sand paper to find the spot welds and grind the spot welded area only (to thin the metal) and then use a hammer and chisel to remove the remaining pieces. Some people prefer using a spot weld cutter to remove them, it is a personal preference thing. I have also found that when fitting the new roof panel, put one side in and then pry the other side in, to get it to "slide" down between the drip rails. Another way is to bend the drip rails down and after you get the new panel on, you can bend them back up.

Also be sure to check the braces under the roof panel when you have it off, we have found that the front brace tends to rust quite a bit as well.

I would also sand blast and epoxy the braces prior to putting the new panel on. Just a few thoughts that may be of help when you get started.


As for the doors, be sure to cut out far enough from the rust to get to good metal. If the hole is the size of a quarter, I would probably cut about a 3" square if the rust is confined to the quarter size described. This is for several reasons, but the main being to repair the rust correctly and for the long term.

Good luck

Kelly
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:57 AM
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Great advice Kelly, especially getting all the rusted are replaced with new, fresh metal. As I'm sure you know Cole, most often rust starts from the inside, on doors because the drain holes in the bottom get plugged.

What is the reason that you are planning on replacing the roof panel and have you ever had the front and rear glass out of the car? These first generation F bodies are famous for getting moisture trapped in the windshield channels and rust is often the end result. Depending on what the problem is and if it is rust, where is it? Let us know and I'm sure we can offer some assistance.

Ray
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:42 PM
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Hey Cole ,arnt you here in Ga? Atlanta maybe ?
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:40 PM
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Hey Cole !!!!! Great to see your back..

Will be keeping a eye on your build.. Great to see you again..
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:42 PM
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Hey Cole ,arnt you here in Ga? Atlanta maybe ?
Hey buddy hoe you doing. i'm back in ky now.



Cole
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:42 PM
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Hey Cole !!!!! Great to see your back..

Will be keeping a eye on your build.. Great to see you again..
Hey my friend it's good to be back.



Cole
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Great advice Kelly, especially getting all the rusted are replaced with new, fresh metal. As I'm sure you know Cole, most often rust starts from the inside, on doors because the drain holes in the bottom get plugged.

What is the reason that you are planning on replacing the roof panel and have you ever had the front and rear glass out of the car? These first generation F bodies are famous for getting moisture trapped in the windshield channels and rust is often the end result. Depending on what the problem is and if it is rust, where is it? Let us know and I'm sure we can offer some assistance.

Ray
Yeah Ray i have the interior out and all the glass now except the passenger side door glass and the quarter glass, i already knew the rust was there just didnt know just how bad but i will post some pics of what i have done so far, going to start that project journal.


Cole
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