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Old 05-18-2003, 06:50 AM
BLE BLA TIMMY!
 
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Post Rust and Sludge in the rear

I am rebuilding a 12bolt Chevy that has been sitting for about 15 years. Needless to say there is rust and sludge inside both axle tubes and a little in the pumpkin. I am replacing gears, seals and bearings (high mileage) but I don't know how to clean and rid the inside of rust before reassembly. Can anyone point me to the correct tech articles? Thank you.

-Tim <img src="graemlins/crash.gif" border="0" alt="[crash]" /> QUOTABLE: Viagra is composed of 10% aspirin & 90% Fix-A-Flat.

[ May 18, 2003: Message edited by: cj5jeeps ]</p>

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Old 05-18-2003, 07:22 PM
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how bout blastin it out at the car wash, then shovin dry clean rags down the tubes with an old broom stick?
tech note#4275909-2
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Old 05-20-2003, 06:04 AM
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If you are disassembling the unit completely you may want to consider tanking the housing with a Redi-Strip type of process. Here's a link to a company in Toledo, OH that uses this process to clean metal. <a href="http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/pages/819161/index.htm" target="_blank">http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/pages/819161/index.htm</a>
It is non-destructive and removes all paint, rust, etc. You can then ecoat and paint or prime and paint. If you don't have access to ecoating make sure you oil up the inside, and prime the outside with a self etching epoxy primer, and get it back together ASAP because it will flash rust. Finishing it this way will make it look brand new and keep it that way too.
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Old 05-26-2003, 05:08 AM
BLE BLA TIMMY!
 
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Thank you. I was most concerned with the continuing of rusting and pitting. It seems every one has been pointing me to an Acid dipper but cost of that service in Mid Missouri is a little on the high side for something that size.
Unfortunately I am going to have to do this to my axles and diff carrier(slight rust where they sat out of the oil for so long).
Thank you again.
Tim
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Old 05-26-2003, 05:20 AM
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The rust should not be all THAT bad inside other than probably surface rust. Use some naval jelly down in it and like axle stated ramrod some rags thru with a broomstick. You should be OK. Once it is rebuilt it will be newly lubed and you will be good to go. If it is of great concern just drain the grease after a couple of hundred miles and add in fresh.

Kevin
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Old 05-26-2003, 06:58 AM
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There's a product called "Rust No More" by Krud Kutter that is available in K-mart and probably Wal-Mart as well in the paint section. It won't remove thick rust, but works well on surface rust. It's water soluble, but works! It's a very light acid solution -- won't burn skin (but be careful around eyes!). I've been using it to remove surface rust on a car I'm building now. If your primary concern is to remove the surface coat and prevent further rusting, this should be an economical solution. Won't cut it all out like naval jelly, but gets the surface stuff off and prevents further rusting, and preps for painting. Krylon makes an etching primer, but not many stores carry it. Any auto paint store should have etching primer in spray cans, but it's about $8 a can for the pro stuff (Sherwin Williams brand). The Krylon is about $4 a can.
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