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Old 11-08-2007, 03:59 PM
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Rust Spots

Hey Guys,

I picked up a project car and need some advice. There are some rust spots on the body, specifically under the front & rear windows (common on this car) and also some minor rusting in the usual areas. No rust through (it was an in-land Florida car) but plenty of small areas of surface rust, some pretty heavy. I'm going to grind out the rust. I don't expect to grind through the metal. I expect to keep this car a fairly long time and use it for cruising, Sat nite out, etc. so I want a permanent fix. So.... After I grind out the rust, I plan to use a Rust Converter like Eastwoods' two part kit and then a rust encapsulater like POR-15 or Eastwoods' equivalent, then body filler.

I intend to strip some fairly large areas (doors, cowl, other areas up to 1' square) in my spare time over the next few months. My questions are:

1. If I strip the paint off a section of sheet metal, can I use an etching primer out of a rattlecan (again Eastwood makes one) on the areas around the patch prior to patching with the filler? I really want to use rattlecans since I'll be working in my spare time and don't want to have to clean up my equipment after working for half an hour on a patch site.

2. Can I put an epoxy trimer on the whole care after stripping and using the etching primer to really maximize my chances for making rust a memory?

3. Eastwood sells a stripper. Is it any good or are there better products out there? I might strip the whole car prior to bringing it to the paintshop. I'll be doing this in my garage under the house so fumes are an issue.

4. How about the other Eastwood stuff? They really push a lightweight body filler but I want a good really long lasting product. (I'll probably put 100,000 miles on this puppy when I'm through so I want to use the right stuff.) I've used POR-15 but Eastwoods' encapsulater gets great reviews and also comes in a rattlecan. I'm not stuck on Eastwood but they sell a full line of stuff and seem pretty helpful.

5. Anybody know of a long flexible device I can use to spray rust encapsulator or Rust inhibiting paint like POR-15 into hard to reach spots inside body panels for protection on the backside?

Thanks in advance.

Bill

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Old 11-08-2007, 04:39 PM
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Wildbill,

There has been lots of discussion on this subject here, and you may want to do a Search, but here is my two cents worth (and I'm sure some of the Pro's will chime in)-

If you don't have a lot of rust pitting, I would not use a Rust converter-check that-I would NOT recommend any Rust Converter. I would get the Rust out-here is a Link to the best way I know:

secrets of surface rust removal revealed

1. There are alot of varying views on this, but most people prefer Epoxy Primer to Etching Primer-now, there are some Products out there that offer a two part "Primer in a Can", but I would NOT put ANYTHING on your Car that is Doesn't have a Hardener of some kind in it. You really don't need Etching Primer-

2. Yes! Use Epoxy!

3. You can use Aircraft Stripper, although it does have a smell as it is a strong Chemical-or, have the Car Media Blasted. Next option would be to Sand it off, then deal with the Rust.

4. Most here will agree that Rage (made by Evercoat) is the best Body Filler-most Auto Body Supply stores will carry it-I prefer Rage Gold, many here like Rage Extreme-Eastwood, in my estimation, overcharges on Supplies-look around-you can generally buy it cheaper elsewhere. I buy a lot of stuff from there guys:

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/default.aspx

5. You can buy guns with flexible wands to get into those hard to reach areas-(I am using an Eastwood page to show this to you-oops!)

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...roductID=17612

hope this helps!

Last edited by 35WINDOW; 11-08-2007 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 11-08-2007, 06:24 PM
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Yes.... The rust issue has been discussed many times, in a lot of detail. Plenty of reading for someone to stay busy until they forget about that project. LOL

As was said. You can buy stuff from Eastwood, but you can save a lot by buying elsewhere. Unless you are really hung up on having that name on the products, there is no reason to waste the extra money.

As far as removing the rust, read Randy Ferguson's post, and follow his directions. Do yourself a favor and ignore the rest of the BS in that thread. If you cannot get rid of the rust that way, then cut it out. You can get a bunch or "Rust convertor" and convert the rust into an empty wallet. You can also get a "Rust encapsulator" and maybe encapsulate a bunch and sell it to someone else. That won't help your project though.

As for the spraying inside panels, get one of the guns for it, and spray them with some of the cavity wax rust inhibitors that are available, like from 3M, or you can spray it good with a good epoxy primer.

After the metal is stripped, coat it with epoxy for sure. Make sure it is a quality product. I use SPI, and it is recommended by many others on this board, but there are others available. I would check to make sure it is good stuff, as you want one that is chemical resistant and also going to seal the surface from moisture and air.

Aaron
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Old 11-09-2007, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
You can get a bunch of "Rust convertor" and convert the rust into an empty wallet. Aaron

LMAO!

But that is words of wisdom!
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