hehe yeah I know, that's why I thought it's a good time to see how por15 has held up. It seems fine in theory but in practice it's so moronic. I'm so confused over what to use. From what I read I have a few problems. First, regarding por15. I actually tried the starter kit. Took me a whole day and I was lucky to be able rent a car lift for 10$/hour. So first I used a grinder with a soft metal brush to remove all loose rust and flakes under my car. Then I rinsed it with water with a hose. Let it dry for a while and sprayed with marine clean. Then rinse with water and let it dry for an hour. Then I used metal ready, let it sit for 30 minuted and again rinsed it with water. Gave it 2 hours to dry (outside on a sunny day) and finally used a brush to apply the product. Well the problem that I think all these procedures didn't remove everything that has accumulated under my car. Also, after a few weeks, I can scrape it with my fingernails. Regarding the rumor that it doesn't come off your skin, I was able to scrape it off the same day, again with my fingernails. The place where it holds the best is where it was rusty. So as I live in Montreal I decided to go to the warehouse and get another pint to cover the remaining rust. I talked to the guy who says he's been selling it for 19 years to make sure I apply it correctly. He told me that after I rinsed off the metal ready, I have to wait till it's completely dry, and that can take from 1 days to a week. If you don't have a garage or a special hot temperature room, how can you do it? I mean after a week of driving your car it's gonna get dirty underneath, so if you paint por15 it won't adhere.
In my case I'm only talking about surface rust, which I can remove with naval jelly after multiple applications. The only thing that stays are tiny pits, and I'm not sure if they're rusted or not.
So it's really confusing what to do with the rust. If I paint over it with por15, it should seal it completely and the little rust won't grow. However the problem is to make sure the rust is actually dry. How can I make sure of that if people said that there's moisture even in the air, so when you paint it, it will trap moisture under the paint. And another problem, if I'm rinsing it with water, won't it get into seems and crevices where it won't dry?
Now if I remove all the rust, should I use the epoxy primer? The only one that mixes automatically and that I can order online is on eastwood's website, 20$ a can. Now again, how do you know when the metal is dry to start spraying? People just said that the metal starts rusting right away (within seconds). If this is so, you either paint over rusted metal or over wet metal, and both are bad.
A few people here strongly suggested that you should go to the professional body shops etc. because they know better and they also don't use it.
I don't know about the States but in Montreal, Canada, it seems that all the repair services do is cover up your rust, your holes or anything. They don't do quality job, just quick fixes so you end up paying for nothing. This is what all my friends told me.
After all the information I learned, I'm inclined to use por15 instead of everything else. At least I can have some rust, sandpaper it somewhat and paint right over. This way I'm sure it's not wet (I won't have to use metal ready and rinse it off because it adheres very well to rust). I also won't need to use marine clean and to rinse it off and wait undefined amount of time till it drys, since after sandpapering the rust will already be clean. The first tiny layer of rust will be gone along with all the contaminants and dirt.
I know I wrote a lot and it's an old topic but these details don't seem obvious to me so I'm puzzled how to do it RIGHT with at least surface rust you can easily remove (and here again people have said that you can't see rust so how can you be sure you removed it if you can't see it?)