You got at lot of points there oldred, I will try to take a kinder gentler approach to my posts from here on out.
I have never used Eastwood products (except Oxy-Solv, but I didn't purchase it through them) so I do not feel at all qualified to comment on the best way to use their products.
However I have been using POR products for some ten years, based on the experiences and recommendations of various members of the Studebaker Drivers Club, some of whom have cars that they treated with POR 20+ years ago, even on this forum there are posts claiming that they applied POR way back in '87 and it still looks like new.
As you could tell by my previous posts, I have been very satisfied with how it has performed for me. ( admittedly just one individual)
Structural repairs on a well rusted vehicle need to be done regardless of what finishing materials are employed, as I said in my inital post, about welding in new metal in all rusted out areas, and sandblasting clean all the areas to be refinished. (something I left out before, I am only speaking of frames, floor pans and concealed interior panels here,- I have never even attempted to use POR on any exterior panels, unless we count utility trailer fenders.)
Now the obvious thing about these M.C products, no matter how much you, or the professional refinishers don't approve of them for automotive use, a lot bucks down rodders are using them, and at an exponentially increasing rate, (which would hardly be likely if they weren't getting satisfactory results,- advertising can only suck us in,- it takes customer satisfaction to bring us back)
Knowing that our friends ARE going to experiment with these products, whether we approve of it or not, it only makes sense to share our experience, so that they achieve the best results they can- even if you think its the WRONG approach and that the products are crappy short-cuts.
This is why offered my experience and opinion on the best way to use POR, think here--- If this subject HAD previously been well covered, you would not have been 'suckered' into using POR-15 on the floor pan of your Mustang, and so upset to find out that it needed rust to work effectively, you would have been able to make a well informed decision, as it is you are on here bad-mouthing the product already, which you admitted has not yet given you any problems.
My advice to you today, and I'm not being a wise-*****, is that if you really don't like it that bad, strip it off, and redo it the 'right' way. ( it melts easily when flashed with a torch or a heat gun, and will wipe right off with rags, do a quick sandblast and you are right back to go...I've done this when I was dissatisfied with the surface- bubbles, pinholes, bugs, of course I didn't have to sandblast as I just laid down a new coat of POR ...'experience')
I apologize to you for suggesting that you were blind and ignorant, the point that I was trying to make at that time was that there is literally tons of information available on the subject of POR-15, and other moisture-cure products, that you did not avail yourself of this information is no one else's fault.