RUST..What are the acceptable permanent ways to get rid of it? - Page 7 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 01:16 AM
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My present build doesn't have a panel in it I haven't had to patch and even though I enjoy it, I am getting a little more picky about what I bring home.
Several years ago I restored my 72 Ford pickup. I replace all the floors, fenders, core support ect. None of it was even bad but after I started into it to replace the cab mounts it snowballed. I sandblasted the side seams on the bed, used acid etch and urethane primer. Then used the factory type caulking down the seam. Within 3 years I had holes I could poke my finger through along that seam. Of course the truck lived outside so it got salt air even when it wasn't driven on the salty roads.

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 05:11 AM
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Jessie J has inspired me to learn how to paint!
I have reviewed all his postings and I have it figured out!
See, I'm not to old to learn!

Our family car a white chevette is no longer white because of all the rust holes and yellow colored rust, so here is the plan.
Big lots has paint guns for $29.95, I will get one today and they have duck tape to seal the holes with for $4.67 a roll.
Since the car is all rust no prep will need to be done, all I will do is put duck tape on the holes and spray por.
To further save money we have some purple house paint that I can use to tint the por to the color I want.
I think I can have this vehicle done in a day.
The wife wants shoes but she can just go barefoot a little longer
as only god knows what this classic will be worth when I'm done!
(10 times present value?)
If this works out I may do my AMC Hornet that I use for work next but I think that will take 3-4 rolls of duct tape.
If I do these good maybe GM will hire me??? JJ will put in a good word, I'm sure!
Did I miss anything?
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 06:48 AM
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Hey, sounds great!!! Make sure and take lots of pictures so you can do a tech article when you get done. I usualy try to pick a color of gray that matches the tape when I do it, that way if you decide to do a spoiler or ground effects later on you can just tape them on and no one will notice, or even make them out of duct tape.
Then look in the April 2000 issue of HotRod Magazine for how to put a 500 caddy engine in your cool "vette.
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Old 11-01-2004, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by willowbilly3
My present build doesn't have a panel in it I haven't had to patch and even though I enjoy it, I am getting a little more picky about what I bring home.
Several years ago I restored my 72 Ford pickup. I replace all the floors, fenders, core support ect. None of it was even bad but after I started into it to replace the cab mounts it snowballed. I sandblasted the side seams on the bed, used acid etch and urethane primer. Then used the factory type caulking down the seam. Within 3 years I had holes I could poke my finger through along that seam. Of course the truck lived outside so it got salt air even when it wasn't driven on the salty roads.
But, but, but !!! If you used all the "RIGHT" products, wasn't it supposed to last just forever and forever?
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by willowbilly3
Hey, sounds great!!! Make sure and take lots of pictures so you can do a tech article when you get done. I usualy try to pick a color of gray that matches the tape when I do it, that way if you decide to do a spoiler or ground effects later on you can just tape them on and no one will notice, or even make them out of duct tape.
Then look in the April 2000 issue of HotRod Magazine for how to put a 500 caddy engine in your cool "vette.
*********************************************
WOW!! Thanks for the advice!!
If I put that 500 caddy engine in my chevette do you think
Hot rod mag will put me on the front cover instead of the 66 year-one mustang???
You are no doubt a pro when I'm done will my Chevette be worth more than the 10 times value?
Pictures I can do!!!!
I will have Martinsr do the write up for me.

Last edited by BarryK; 11-01-2004 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 11-01-2004, 08:43 AM
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Barry what is the best type of primer to use over duct tape,epoxy or urethane? Should the rust be primed first or should one apply the tape to bare rust? Heck with the money saved here I will be able to buy another project!
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Old 11-01-2004, 08:56 AM
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NO! NO! and NO!
Por sticks to dirt and rust!
The duct tape is only to hold the por in place until dry!
Remember, por you can take a screwdriver and hammer to it and not hurt it!
If you do that to metal it will dent or make a hole.

I can't believe these people are so stupid they think they have to weld at all! Or lead! What a waste of time and money.

Oldred, I'm excited as I can see ourselves getting rich off this!
I figure I can do one restoration a day and charge $500 instead of $40,000-100,000 and I will be done by lunch time!!
Should we go in business together?

Our name:

"Butchers R-us"

Last edited by BarryK; 11-01-2004 at 12:24 PM.
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 09:48 AM
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Now guys....Back to the subject. Is anything really"permanent"? I did tons of rust work when I lived in Michigan and many customers used to ask....Will it ever rust again after you paint it? Well you don't how hard it was not to reply...No, 2000 years from now someone will dig up this car and say..WOW! look at that shine and NO RUST! I guess BodymanDave must have painted this one!!
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 10:48 AM
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If you could carve out ALL the rust and have it galvanized, keep it in a heated garage and wash it every time you drive it, then it might outlast you before some rust comes through.

Now paint that 'vette hugger orange and slap a couple Z/29 ( one better than 28) stickers on it and it might make the cover of Car Craft.
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Old 11-01-2004, 12:55 PM
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por 15 is basicly glue. thats all the clear coat they sell is or at least thats what i was told by their rep. it is simply an incapsulator, not a cure all. but this stuff is being hyped all over the rodders network and i for one am growing tired of it so i'll leave now. i'd rather argue about holley vs edlebrock, at least i know they both work.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 12:58 PM
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Actually Eastwood calls theirs an encapsulator. Suppose to work better and doesn't have those nasty isocyanides.
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Old 11-02-2004, 12:12 AM
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in all reality the only way to stop rust is to heat it to the point of almost melted or an acid that pretty stout, or the easier method of remove the rusty metal and replace with none rusty stuff.
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2004, 10:37 PM
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I am just now learning to deal with rust on sheetmetal, but I chipped a heck of a lot of it off in my 8 years in the Navy. We chipped the loose rust off with a chipping gun then painted over it with some stuff called "vactan". It looks like the same "rust converter" Wally-world sells. After it turned black (cured I guess) we chipped it back off to bare metal then painted the whole thing with epoxy poly amide paint.

But since I am no longer in the business of restoring the bilges of a submarine I am gonna have to come up with something different for my truck.

My question is why can't you galvanize the body parts prior to priming and painting? If you can get a 20' beam dip galvanized you ought to be able to dip your frame.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2004, 05:53 AM
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I know a guy who gets his powder coating done at a place that builds ittigation systems and they can galvanize big stuff. I'm not sure how you make paint stick to it but the car manufacturers do.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2004, 08:18 PM
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omg

the only way someone would get thru this thread is if they skipped it to post like i just did.

we should call it Britanica Rust. forget Type O Negative.

hey you with the muretic acid - where did you get that?

rust is a pain in the mule.

oh yea - what about the electrical device that supposedly stops rust thru some wacky process>? anyone heard of this?
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