Rusted hood! - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 06:05 AM
kringold's Avatar
ATA Welding Technology
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Age: 55
Posts: 301
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rusted hood!

I just got a 1979 GMC pickup this weekend and the hood has alot of rust. At this point it "appears" to be surface rust on just the top side. I'm going to strip the entire top side to bare metal. I've never done any body work or painting before, but I would like to get a good coat of primer on it afterwards, that will stand up to the elements. This is just going to be a beater truck, so it doesn't have to be fantastic.
What I have available to use is the Sears paint gun in the picture, that I bought for $8 at a thrift store, and a weak Coleman compressor. I have to wait on the compressor after about the second bolt, when I'm using my air ratchet. The only place to paint it in is my semi-enclosed attached carport, and I don't want to paint my house.
Now comes my questions. Will a weak compressor and a inexpensive gun spray primer? If so, what products should I look at? Or should I just use rattle can primer? Again, if so, what products should I look at? These are pretty much my only two options.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2354.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	177.7 KB
ID:	14219  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 06:21 AM
Henry Highrise's Avatar
Lost in the 60's
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dixieland
Age: 69
Posts: 15,182
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
My understanding is that most primers absorb moisture ,so that would not be good to protect it from the elements. Your best bet would be to prime and paint it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 08:14 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Wow, you're up for a challenge with that much rust but it can be done. I'd look at the interior areas of that hood and if the front looks rusty inside I'd scrap it and find another. The gun will work for primer but it might be slow. A quality epoxy primer will protect the metal just fine but will chalk after some time in the sun. Sandable primer surfacers and acid etch primers break down much faster and absorb moisture.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 09:37 AM
kringold's Avatar
ATA Welding Technology
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Age: 55
Posts: 301
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Deleted because it double posted.

Last edited by kringold; 08-20-2006 at 11:19 AM. Reason: On dial up and it double posted.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 09:43 AM
kringold's Avatar
ATA Welding Technology
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Age: 55
Posts: 301
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
Wow, you're up for a challenge with that much rust but it can be done. I'd look at the interior areas of that hood and if the front looks rusty inside I'd scrap it and find another.
The interior of the hood appears to be fine. The rest of the truck is blue, with the exception of the passenger side front quarter panel which came off a Blazer, and is brown. So this is a replacement hood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
The gun will work for primer but it might be slow.
That's what I was thinking. I'd have to shoot, wait, shoot, wait... and while I'm waiting what I shot will be dry before I shoot more. That's why I also asked about rattle can.
I eventually want to have a cheap (say $200) paint job put on it, but that may be a couple years down the road, and it sounds like that there isn't a primer that will wait that long.
So it looks like I will be rattle canning primer AND paint. Any recommendations on what to use? Again this will be a beater truck, maybe a work truck, so it doesn't have to be show quality.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_2342a.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	135.0 KB
ID:	14223  

Last edited by kringold; 08-20-2006 at 11:28 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 11:33 AM
kringold's Avatar
ATA Welding Technology
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Age: 55
Posts: 301
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Also, I will be stripping this today, the hood is off and inside my shop. How long can I wait before I at least primer it? The wait is due to determining what product(s) or process to use.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 12:24 PM
ETriggs's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Phenix City, Alabama
Age: 40
Posts: 10
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Self etching primer

For the primer, if you are going to leave it for a while in primer, I would suggest a self-etching and sealing primer. I used SEM Self-etching primer that is supposed to seal against rust. I left a part on my old truck in this primer for about 3 months before I painted it and it never rusted. This was during the nice humid, rainy summer in Alabama so it should work fine for you.
Eldon

PS: this was a rattle can and was ~$10/can
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 12:58 PM
kringold's Avatar
ATA Welding Technology
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Age: 55
Posts: 301
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ETriggs
I used SEM Self-etching primer that is supposed to seal against rust.
Eldon
PS: this was a rattle can and was ~$10/can
Great, that's what I'm looking for. I live in Western Washington and we don't tan but rust because of all the rain! However, I live in a town that doesn't always have what you need, so is there a second choice? Also, is there a rattle can paint that you could recommend?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 01:21 PM
ETriggs's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Phenix City, Alabama
Age: 40
Posts: 10
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Self Etching primer

Any kind of primer that is an epoxy type that seals or a primer that is self-etching. If you have a DIY store nearby (Home Depot, etc) you can find this type of primer in the spray department. I think there is even a Rustoleum brand primer that is a sealing type. If not, look for a metal etch that will put a zinc layer on the metal. This will be a wash that you mix with water and wipe on the metal, leaving a yellowish tint to the steel. Then you can prime over the top and worry less about the rust.
I hope this helps!
Eldon
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 03:21 PM
kringold's Avatar
ATA Welding Technology
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Age: 55
Posts: 301
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I ended up buying Dupli-Color's T99 Primer Gey for "Truck, Van & SUV". Its the best Schuck's had. I'm assuming that this will work. I still have alot more stripping, plus welding to do before I spray. So I can get something else if I need too. How long can I let the bare metal sit before I need to get primer on it? With the work that I have left, it's looking like either tomorrow or the day after before I will be completely ready to spray primer over everything needed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 03:34 PM
ETriggs's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Phenix City, Alabama
Age: 40
Posts: 10
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well, technically the metal could sit unpainted forever as long as you kept sanding off the surface rust. Most Rustoleum products do a great job of keeping the rust out for a rattle can. The standard primer will usually keep the rust off for about 1 month, depending on the thickness. Hopefully this helps.
Eldon

Edit: about the Duplicolor, it is a really good product. It was the base for a good chunk of the primer on my 1987 Toyota before I painted it.

Last edited by ETriggs; 08-20-2006 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something about Duplicolor
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 03:59 PM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Any rattle can primer that you use will need to be removed before any repaint later. In reality, it probably won't be that difficult, as the stuff will not last that long anyway. I know of none that I would trust to not absorb moisture. As far as how long you can wait after stripping before priming, not long at all, specially if you are in a humid climate. As soon as you strip that metal, it will start to flash rust. If you are going to use a quality Epoxy Primer, you have a little more time, because of the sealing characteristics. Anything less than epoxy, and I would prime it that day.

As an added note... There are no "Front Quarter Panels" on that vehicle. They are "Fenders".

Aaron
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 06:05 PM
kringold's Avatar
ATA Welding Technology
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Age: 55
Posts: 301
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
Any rattle can primer that you use will need to be removed before any repaint later. In reality, it probably won't be that difficult, as the stuff will not last that long anyway. I know of none that I would trust to not absorb moisture. Aaron
That's why I kinda intend on hitting it with a coat of color also. Then hopefully nothing will have to be stripped when I have the whole truck ready for paint, which will be awhile. Your thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
As an added note... There are no "Front Quarter Panels" on that vehicle. They are "Fenders". Aaron
I know gimme a break... I was still on my first cup of coffee and it was reheat from yesterday!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 08:24 PM
kringold's Avatar
ATA Welding Technology
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Age: 55
Posts: 301
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rustoleum

Quote:
Originally Posted by ETriggs
I think there is even a Rustoleum brand primer that is a sealing type. Eldon
I didn't mean to ignore your suggestion of Rustoleum, however I did a search on rattle can primers before posting here and after reading the first two results, I have decided to stay away from it.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sear...earchid=599876
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 09:20 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Buy yourself some good quality epoxy primer, Southern Polyurethanes is top notch and very economical when compared to even spray cans of junk 1K products. You can epoxy that panel and rest assured it will last for years and years without paint-I've got a truck and some parts here that confirm this. Although epoxy chalks when exposed to sun it takes a very very long time to degrade to the point that protection is compromised. Once you're ready for paint simply sand the surface of the primer and shoot on one fresh coat then paint that puppy.

SPI epoxy Southern Polyurethanes

Primer economics: SPI epoxy is 51cents per sprayable ounce
Rattle can self etching primer at $10 per 12ounce can = 83cents per sprayable ounce, add in the fact that 50% is solvent and the cost doubles.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Correct sequemce for body panel alignment Ripped Body - Exterior 4 10-19-2005 08:14 AM
Hoods not shuting all the way 74_Chevrolet Body - Exterior 5 09-01-2005 07:10 PM
Best ways to straighten a twisted repro door? Ripped Body - Exterior 13 07-04-2005 07:29 AM
"Bowed" deck lid cruzinTLT Body - Exterior 3 03-04-2005 09:24 PM
Door Alignment Ron M Body - Exterior 2 08-21-2004 01:43 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.