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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2002, 06:54 PM
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Levi, weld your new pans in first then use por15. If you use if before welding you will just burn it off and waist it. By using after the weldings done you still get the job done and ;lay down a fesh coat for protection.

HK
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2002, 07:24 PM
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when you cut in the new patch pieces dont overlap the metal if at all posible cut the patch to fit tight and tack it in spots.
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Old 09-03-2002, 12:02 PM
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Helrazr, this is my first disagree. I like to over lap and either joggle the edge with some crimping plyers, or drill some holes along the edge of the panel and tack the holes and run some beads.
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Old 09-03-2002, 06:47 PM
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MS my opinion is mostly from observation and the advice of a few friends who know what there doing, the reason i say to butt weld is that if you overlap you may get moisture or crud in the overlay. my own talents are restricted to some self taught tac welding and a few welds on tubing and patch panels i suppose there are pros and cons for both methods.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2002, 06:55 PM
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1959 Super Rambler. Did I tell you I love old Ramblers? I'm assuming the 59 has a 195.6 OHV in-line six (the only size they made, but the way). Of course if it had the V-8 it would be a Series 20 Rebel in 59. That old six is reliable as any can be, but lacking in the power department. Lots of low speed torque though, should take off real easy -- albeit not real quick. There isn't much you can do with the old 196, it has a 3.125" bore and 4.250" stroke, nearly a tractor motor! Will get the car around respectably though.

If you need any technical advice let me know, I'm pretty familiar with the cars. And don't let anyone tell you you need to rip the front suspension out. Trunnion joints are different than ball joints, but not inferior. The trunnions came out before ball joints, in 1950. Ford started using ball joints in 1954, others not until 57 or 58. The trunnion is better than king pins, equal to a ball joint in movement. AMC stopped using them after 1969. By that time it was CHEAPER to use the ball joints everyone else was using and buy from an outside supplier than to make a special part in house. Cheap enough in the long run to warrant the engineering work on the suspension for the change. You just need to know how to take them apart is all, and most people don't. They think it needs to be removed if they don't unserstnad it, when it is much easier to study it and come around to understanding!
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2003, 10:31 PM
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I guess nobody's gonna address the question of why the area below the footfeed rusts out. Think about it. When it rains or snows, you get in the car with your foot wet and it goes on the footfeed and the water runs on the floor under it. That area stays wet much more often than any other. Therefore, rust out. No rocket science there................
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Old 04-12-2003, 12:55 AM
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with floor pans, you should overlap. Body panel is ok to but weld but for a floor pan definatley overlap. If it is a large section drill holes every 1 - 2 inches and weld the holes. If you are worried about moisture getting inbetween the overlap, spray the area with weldthrough primer first and then weld it.
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Old 04-13-2003, 02:31 AM
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Nope!!
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Old 04-13-2003, 05:14 PM
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I have to disagree with Helrazr too about butt welding the panels in. If you notice, the original floor is done with lap joints. Very seldom is that where they rust out. There are things that can be done to prevent them from having moisture problems. ICAR, the organization that sets the standards for the Auto Body Repair Industry, recommends the use of butt joints only with "backers" that are plug welded in place. The butt weld then is mainly to avoid the movement at the joint and cracking of the finish body repair. A lap joint, using a flanging tool of some type is considerably stronger. Isn't that what you want on a floor? Using a weld through primer on both pieces and then some type of sealer afterwards will help prevent the moisture problems and give you a dependable repair. Just my opinion and the recommendations of ICAR. They are the ones that spent all of the money and time on the research. Good Luck
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Old 04-14-2003, 12:49 AM
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In australia we have much strickter rules concerning modifying and repairing vehicles than you guys do in the US. In AUS you must lap weld floor pannel and if it cant be lap welded you must do as adtkart mentioned and use a backer plate. Basically you but weld the panel together, then using a strap of metal thicker than the panel, lay it across the but join, drill holes every inch or so and plug weld it to the but joint (does that make sense?)
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:02 PM
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dont use the por15 before you weld..you want the area as clean and free of contaminates as you can get....after you weld use the por15
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2003, 05:36 PM
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There are "weld through" primers that you can use if using a lap joint. What ever kind of joint you use, use some kind of primer over it as soon as reasonably possible. Welding promotes rust.
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