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Old 10-30-2009, 05:25 PM
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Rusted piston

I just pulled the heads on a seized up engine and the #2 cylinder was full of rusted 'gunk' and the piston appears to rusted to the cylinder wall. I have it soaking with Blast Buster, but should I just drop the project and throw out the engine?
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:42 PM
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Depends on how determined you are. Soak it then get a three lb. hammer and wail away at it. You aren't going to save the piston and the cylinder will have to be bored .040-.060" or sleeved to get the rust pits out

I do a few yearly.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:19 PM
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Mexican Wd40

I fixed a jeep 4 cyclinder with ATF and Deisel fuel 50/50 mix and soaked it for two days. Boring only needs done if there is piting or piston slap and only remove as much as nessary.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:31 PM
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What engine are you working on? Is it a Big-Block ..I have a old 351 Cleveland under the bench that was the same way i soaked it down for a few day's ans as said in the other post take BFH knocked it out. I even saved the piston but the cylinder has pits so i am just saving it for whatever a sleeve more then likely being it's already bored 30 over now..Depending what engine it is what i would do JMO..Cole
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Old 10-30-2009, 08:50 PM
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A couple of years ago I bought a old frozen up 460 out of a junkyard. The engine was rusted up on four of the eight bores. I soaked the cylinders for about a week and beat the pistons out destroying them. I then took it to a machine shop and asked them is the block worth saving. He looked at it and said it would need a minimum of .060 overbore or more, but wouldn't be sure until he tanked it. I told him to tank it and bore out the worst one and take it from there. One week later I stopped back in and had a pleasant surprise, my block only needed .030 to clean out all the pits. The only way to tell is to take it to a machine shop after you get the pistons out and have them tank it and inspect it. You never know, you might get lucky and it might need only a .030 overbore.
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:25 PM
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unsticking

I mix auto tranny fluid with lacquer thinner 50/50.
Let it sit for 2-14 days then put pressure on the piston using 2 head bolts and blocks and whack it with a B.F.H.
some times I will use 2 cylinders moving in the same direction.
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:29 PM
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You could try some Naval Jelly aka phosphoric acid.
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:00 AM
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It's more work than I want to attempt. So the engine (327 SBC) is going to the scrap yard.
Thanks for all your insight.
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:06 AM
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Seized piston !!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cares
It's more work than I want to attempt. So the engine (327 SBC) is going to the scrap yard.
Thanks for all your insight.
Hi Cares Got any # s on your parts.... Head #, block #...Somebody could be looking for parts.....Good Luck 327/350 hp
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:16 AM
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It appears this is an '870' block. The date code is H163 (1963 engine) or H168 (1968 engine). The heads are from 1964. I'm just listed it on Craigslist in the Minneapolis/St Paul area for 'best offer' It it is not gone by Monday it is going to the scrap yard.
Another expensive lesson I have learned is not to buy an 'as is' engine. Shame on me.
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:58 AM
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Vinegar will eat up the piston, chances are if your going to build an engine it will have to be bored. I wouldn't let a seized piston stop me,at the very least don't send it to the scrapyard,someone somewhere needs that block.
Shane
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:58 AM
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Thats A Shame

Its a shame that what you r going to do. It will probably a good find for some one because its probably not pitted real bad or at all and just needs honed (min) .010 (max)boring. If it was closer to me i would jump on it.
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Old 10-31-2009, 09:16 AM
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please dont scrap it!?!?!?!.. thats just as bad as that cash for clunkers(sp?) thing they were doing... iv never used some mixture of fluids to free at froze piston... try just a can of pb blaster and a propane torch.. spray the bore down around the piston and add heat... dont need to get it glowing hot or anything, you just want thermal expansion to happen.. you want the bore to expand a lil and it'll start braking the seal thats holding it in place...once hot, cool it back down with more pb blaster, then heat it up again.. the pb blaster is flamable so itll be like a lil inferno in there... but keep doing this a butt load of time and it should come out pretty easy minus the crap it'll have to be pushed past... but this ALWAYS works for me.
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