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Old 12-09-2004, 06:20 PM
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Rusted window channels

My window channels have rust and rust though surrounding the rear window on my 68 Camaro. The bottom piece is available as a reproduction part. I suppose the quarters and roof are to, but that's getting costly. What is the best way to restore the sheet metal support frame for the rear glass? This is not a good place to hide repairs.

What is the best way to remove the glass? I've seen the trick with small gauge aircraft cable but never tried it.

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Old 12-10-2004, 02:16 PM
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The trick with the wire is that you have to push it thru and attach it to another handle. One on the inside and one on the outside and pull it around. Or you can use a putty knife and slide around there. For someone that only does it once or twice in a lifetime it is a little time consuming. If you have never done it and definately want to save the glass you may want to contact a glass shop and ask what they would want to pop them out. Thay have all of the equipment and can have it done in a matter of a few minutes for a minimal fee.

Kevin
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Old 12-10-2004, 03:10 PM
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The car is not drivable, so bringing it to a glass shop would be expensive. The last glass shop I went to used a mallet and pried against my padded dash. I was pissed. I don't expect folks to add to the patina, no matter how worn my car looks. They really messed up my dash pad. I won't see them again.

The glass is somewhat acid rain etched and has sand scratches in it. Maybe a hammer and shop vac is the correct answer. Where does one buy auto glass without installation?
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Old 12-10-2004, 09:00 PM
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Window channel repair

I am not a true body man, but I have repaired this area on a Mustang. As you know the first thing is to remove the window. To me, after doing a job like creating and welding in a new channel, the window mounting rubber is cheap. Use a sharp knife and cut the old rubber off. slip the blade between the glass and the rubber, THEN SLICE.

After removing the window, use 14-16 gauge steel to form the lip as needed. I do not have an easy way to shape this. NO FANCY MACHINES. I use a vise, hammer, pliers and a lot of patients. Then remove the old rusted area, and fit the new piece to it.

It will be your choice to install the window or have it done after the car is drivable. Installation is tough but can be done. Put the new rubber on the glass. Put a piece of strong string around the lip the fits to the body, then put it onto the bottom body lip. With one person pushing on the window, you pull the string from the inside of the car. If all goes well, the rubber will slip into place. If it doesn't, you need to use a thin bladed screw driver to slip between the inside of the car and the rubber, then slid it along until it is in place.

I know this all sounds pretty simple, but it is a tough. I will probably get many people upset and write about it. But,
IT WORKED FOR ME!

Good luck
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Old 12-11-2004, 12:14 AM
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You can use the wire to cut the seal, or buy a tool with a 90 blade made esp. for glass removal. As posted already fab the patches and weld them in. The new seal is a ribbon ( 3/8 x 1/2 )and comes rolled in a box, it is very sticky , first apply a primer then the seal and set the glass on it and press it down until the seal contacts all the way around.

Troy
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Old 12-31-2004, 03:32 AM
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Thanks for the replies. Maddog, the installation of new glass or the old glass should be a snap on this car. It doesn't have a windwhield gasket to fumble around with. Double stick tape sets it in place and some sealant makes it water tight. I've looked at it some more, and the window is loose already. The sealant between the glass and the channel is loose because of rust under the sealant. Because of this, removal should be a snap too.

My big concern is how to repair the rust problems. The channel is a complex shape with four or more bends. Most of this channel is rusted but only certain sections are rusted through. Even then, the rust through areas are small. I'm wondering if it is possible to weld these areas with gas or mig welding to close the holes and restore some of the original thickness. Large areas are at least 28 gauge metal equivalent remaining, and that is within the limits of mig welding with the "perfect circle, twenty gauge" wire folks here have talked about. The channel is hidden under stainless trim, so repairs there don't need to be metal finished or plastic filled.

If the channel needs to be cut out and replaced, I would need parts from a donor car. The upper corners of the frame turn a radius that would be impossible to duplicate with hand tools. Welding a patch in would involve the roof. A lot of talented metal finishing would be needed to make this repair optically perfect for paint. I can't do it and I don't know where to find a body shop with this level of skill.

Though I have seen brazing used to close windshield pinholes, I've also read some discussion here in the archives here that corrosion and paint failure are the eventual outcome of this disimilar metal combination. I don't think I want to risk an expensive paint job to an inadequate repair method.

So, I'm looking for advice from others who've been down this path.

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Old 12-31-2004, 04:28 AM
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some repairs just can't last without spending $$$$, and is it worth it.

Ex: only way to start right is have the car dipped to get to the rust inside the (body) glass lip or it will rust again

your doing it right, mig welds, patches, maybe even: JB Weld, seam sealer, foil tape,

what ever it takes to get it water tight for the next 5-10 years, then it's time for a new seal anyway.

don't use Silicone!

want to see a real glass lip challenge, pull the rear glass on a early fastback Mustang.....

got the bucks for all new metal, Classic Creations Lakeland FL will do it right. classiccreationsfl.com

Last edited by red65mustang; 12-31-2004 at 04:35 AM.
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:45 PM
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Window rust repair panels available

I found my back window and windshield channel rust repair panels here: amp-my-ride.com - Camaro and Firebird back window and windshield channel rust repair panels Everyone was impressed with the quality and fitment. Saved me from having to pay for custom fabrication. I guess I could have done it myself because my body guy said it was minimal effort to weld them in. They have them for 67-69 Firebird and Camaro. I hope this helps. Good luck!
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Too Many Projects (10-29-2013)
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:52 AM
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Pay attention to post dates... The one you replied to is almost 10 years old... The car is probably a toaster by now...
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:52 AM
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Ooops. Ok, I'll do that. Thanks
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:24 AM
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Awe crap...I thought someone finally had something interesting for us to work on.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Awe crap...I thought someone finally had something interesting for us to work on.
The link Classic provided with repair channels is damned interesting !!! I need these for my '67 Camaro...

Thanks !!!
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
The link Classic provided with repair channels is damned interesting !!! I need these for my '67 Camaro...

Thanks !!!
Shoot Mitch, the reproductions are rusted out by now........

John
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:55 PM
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Since we are all following up on a ten year old thread I will mention that the rear window channel, or front for that manner, is a fairly straight forward repair.

When I was doing customer work I had a customer bring me a 70 Challenger with rot around the rear window.

The rusty area is basically a Z shaped area which can be formed by making 2 right angle pieces and using the shrinker/stretcher jaws to form the 2 halves and then welding them into one piece. It made a very good solid repair.

LOL. That was 20 years ago. It is probably rusted out again too.

John
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Since we are all following up on a ten year old thread I will mention that the rear window channel, or front for that manner, is a fairly straight forward repair.

When I was doing customer work I had a customer bring me a 70 Challenger with rot around the rear window.

The rusty area is basically a Z shaped area which can be formed by making 2 right angle pieces and using the shrinker/stretcher jaws to form the 2 halves and then welding them into one piece. It made a very good solid repair.

LOL. That was 20 years ago. It is probably rusted out again too.

John
That post is 4 days old. I went to the website and it's still there...

I need to learn how to use my stretcher/shrinker. I tried on a piece for a friend's Tacoma but I made one flange 4 inches long and it wouldn't bend correctly.
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