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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2010, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
well.. rustoleum... both products are equally as bad, except it's pretty easy to get a nice gloss and decent coverage out of rustoleum.. both products will need to be completly stripped before applying a better paint, and both products will fade and chalk within the course of a year or so... but rustoleum is way cheaper.. it's $25/ gallon vs $80/ gallon ( $20/ quart for duplicolor )
I have used 2 k urtethane primer, epoxy primer, and lacquer based primer surfacer right over rusty metal primer, once and only if it is fully cured.
The rusty metal primer, is a very solid base, 2k urethane products did not even phase this primer.
I once accidentaly wiped lacquer thinner over a panel primered with Tremclad rusty metal primer, it did not peel the paint, I was surprised by that.
Now Matt, I am not against what your saying, infact, on a new paint job, most of the old stuff should be stripped back to bare metal, then start with epoxy primer as a base.
In other words, I am not going against what your saying, but I have played around with some of this stuff, and maybe the pigment, and gloss in not so great after time, but it is rock solid stuff.....MC

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2010, 05:03 PM
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Repeat by accident
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Old 06-07-2010, 11:23 AM
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ok first off i wouldnt use anything other rustoleum profesional grade oil based enamel itll have a shine for years after the paint job. you got regular rustoleum listed there and itll last about a year before fading.pro rustoleum is the same stuff people painted there cars with back in the 30s its an ackilied enamel any body complaines say its an old school paint job.have fun with the stuff do pinstriping flames something fun.but dont forget to sand the old clear coat off the truck paint wont stick to it.then youll have cracking and flaking.
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Old 06-08-2010, 06:29 AM
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i'd choose rust before using either.
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:09 AM
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First...I am moving this thread to the Body-Paint forum

Second....Why do you people insist on having 2 of these Rustoleum threads going on? This is just getting silly....The points have been made....GIVE IT A REST.........If I could combine them without scrambling the posts all up, I would, but I can't....so we are stuck......
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2010, 07:19 AM
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why not just delete them ? they're useless and only for stirring up s!it . i'm sorry but i just don't know any true hotrodders who would do this to a car they love.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2010, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by shine
why not just delete them ? they're useless and only for stirring up s!it . i'm sorry but i just don't know any true hotrodders who would do this to a car they love.
Thing is...there is technical merit to the threads.....of what NOT to do in my opinion....but, opinions are like .......well, you know the rest.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2010, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allanworks
OK first off i wouldn't use anything other rustle professional grade oil based enamel it'll have a shine for years after the paint job. you got regular rustle listed there and it'll last about a year before fading.pro rustle is the same stuff people painted there cars with back in the S its an sicklied enamel any body complainers say its an old school paint job.have fun with the stuff do pin striping flames something fun.but dint forget to sand the old clear coat off the truck paint wont stick to it.then you'll have cracking and flaking.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Not sure where you come up with this crap but here is a picture of your great yellow stuff and it is somewhere between a year and two old, one of these threads, I had posted when I did it that in 85 degree heat for a week you could not buff it, so you can check the exact date.

I'm thinking these bollards are sneaking out at night and driving on the road with all the chips and rust going on and they were brand new when the stuff was applied, $4500 worth so not like the stuff was painted over junk.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 09:58 AM
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i can take pictures of random posts to and say it was only painted a year ago.but i know your lying theres about 4 years of scraping rusting and denting.there would still be shine to it i think thats spray can junk safety yellow.here in michigan they use the stuff to paint the lines on the roads every 5 years but they use the flat base
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by allanworks
i can take pictures of random posts to and say it was only painted a year ago.but i know your lying theres about 4 years of scraping rusting and denting.there would still be shine to it i think thats spray can junk safety yellow.here in michigan they use the stuff to paint the lines on the roads every 5 years but they use the flat base
You're a bit slow to catch on. Ponch tried to warn you about keeping posts civil, you now calling a member a liar. Take a week off, you're suspended. Come back when and if you lose the attitude after your week off.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 01:56 PM
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I am a cheap guy, so I have messed with cheap paints a little bit. I realize it is not the question, but cheap paints seems to be the theme. Napa carries a line of equipment enamel that can be reduced and sprayed to get a fairly good finish. There is also a hardner available to help increase durability. I have used it in the past for painting frames, suspension, engines and tractors. If it is not in direct sunlight it last very well. Matter of fact it will shine for years and look pretty darn nice. It is also very tough with hardner for the price at about $50 a gallon for everything.

Just thought I would throw in my .02......
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 08:35 PM
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Come back when and if you lose the attitude after your week off.
I think the bad attitude its on your side if I may say Sir...
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 08:39 AM
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I think some of you guys who can dump $50K into a project are forgetting the origins of the Hot Rod. In the 40's and 50's, kids were going for speed and I'm sure most of them didn't have the cash for expensive paint jobs. Before you trash a young person having fun with his ride, look back in time a little, will ya? And remember your roots. The rattle can was all a lot of "greasers" could afford after they paid for their motors. Relax. Hot Rods did not start as a rich man's game. Don't make it one.



Another fun tip is to ignore posts that don't interest you. It can be done.

Last edited by brother728; 06-19-2010 at 08:47 AM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 08:52 AM
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no, ignoring a post is no help to those who dont know any better. there have been many guys over the years who avoided disaster because they got good advice here . just like jdblack. many did not realize it was a pia to keep and almost impossible to repair or reshoot later. we just offer a better alternative than rustoleum at close to the same cost. better quality , longer life, way better looks .
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2010, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by brother728
I think some of you guys who can dump $50K into a project are forgetting the origins of the Hot Rod. In the 40's and 50's, kids were going for speed and I'm sure most of them didn't have the cash for expensive paint jobs. Before you trash a young person having fun with his ride, look back in time a little, will ya? And remember your roots. The rattle can was all a lot of "greasers" could afford after they paid for their motors. Relax. Hot Rods did not start as a rich man's game. Don't make it one.



Another fun tip is to ignore posts that don't interest you. It can be done.
Love the pics, the A model in the last pic is my favorite, there is a Dude not far from me up here has one almost the same, my idea of a Hot Rod, wish I had one.
There is 2 schools of thought on here, wrong and wrong, and if you don't conform to the few, then you are wrong and wronger, no matter what.
I have seen a lot of paint jobs, some good some bad, and some in-between. The point is what your pocket book dictates, I would personally rather see someone have there ride on the road, and burning Dino juiice, then sitting waiting to be able to afford an expensive paint job.
Now I know you can buy entry level Acrylic enamels, and urethanes, but a lot of Guys cannot shoot paint, nor do they have equipment.
If a Guy can get his ride all mechanically, and structurally sound, expensive enough, then do a budget on body/paint, then Hats off to Him. I know a Dude who did this very thing, on a 69 Charger, and his cheap paint job came off well, who am I too judge.
I have found far better body and paint advice on other website forums, dedicated to the subject.
This section has a few know it alls, who come down on others for any idea different than there own, whehter it be right or wrong, just the way it is.
Thanx again for the pics.........MC
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