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Old 04-13-2007, 06:05 PM
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Rusty bolts

I put this in the wrong thread before so I'll post it here.
I'm taking the body off the frame of my vette and the #3 mount bolt is rounded off, i've been trying a reverse socket but cannot get enough leverage to keep the socket down and straight, and I get about one click on the rachet ...i'm scared to death to use a torch in this spot , whats the best way to at least cut the bolt head off? any suggestions??

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Old 04-13-2007, 06:15 PM
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How about drilling right in the center with a size that is just about the same size diameter of the threaded part, and if you can get the socket to bite, then it will snap off.

Can't get a drill in there? Then maybe a cutoff wheel on a die grinder?
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:58 PM
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the #3 bolt is located inside a fiberglass pocket just ahead of the rear door and inside the door jab...you have a little window to axcess it, and no over the top axcess...i suppose i could smash the hell out of it with a cole chisel ... ...i'd probably smash my .if I could clip off the top somehow... i could wind the stud out after...
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Old 04-13-2007, 07:22 PM
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Can U get the blade of one of these into the limited access place? Might work?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_22114_22114
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Old 04-13-2007, 07:53 PM
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hmmmm...I don't think so...the spot i've got to get to is a couple inches or so inside there and the thickness of the tool looks like it won't reach...and theres no throw room behind the bolt...some form of sideways cutter like F&J mentioned maybe...or a local point cutting torch of some kind...
don't these things come with a EASY button,like in the commercials??
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:20 PM
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I have used this trick for years with great success. Click here

Brian
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Old 04-14-2007, 12:34 AM
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Are you using a 6 point or a 12 point socket? Those dang 12 point sockets have caused a lot of grief and sometimes just switching to a 6 point will solve the problem.
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Old 04-14-2007, 06:51 AM
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I'll give it a shot,Martinsr, I hope I don't catch the fiberglass on fire

oldred, I'm using six point...and impact sockets...and reversing sockets...
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Old 04-14-2007, 07:01 AM
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You can buy special sockets to grip rounded off bolts.........they grip on the flat surface instead of the corners of the head...............Or even pound on a socket that is slightly smaller....wrecks the socket, but saves fro wrecking the fiberglass.
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Old 04-14-2007, 07:33 AM
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F&J is right,Torch around fiberglass not this kid
I would take a 1/4" drill bit,drill center of bolt(pilot hole) Only have to drill about half inch deep,then go 3/8" or 1/2"bit,same depth,put your wrench on it (just in case your not centered)and the head will snap off.Hope this helps.

Last edited by KRUZR; 04-14-2007 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:05 AM
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We are not talking about a rose bud tip or a cutting torch here guys. An 0 or 00 or 1 tip doesn't have a whole lot of residual heat off the sides. If you get up close and put the tip of the blue cone right on the bolt there is almost no heat off on the sides. I did it once on a bolt in a door latch on 47 Ford truck where I put the flame thru a small hole in the door that was recently painted to reach a bolt inside. It barely hurt the paint right at the hole.

Give it a try on something as a test, just put the flame right ON the bolt, have your other hand near by with a water bottle and squirt the bolt cool then heat again. Fiberglass isn't gun powder for goodness sakes.

Use a die grinder with a cut off wheel to slice a slot for a screw driver in it before heating.

Brian
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:27 AM
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Martin,don't take me wrong,not knocking your idea,just hard to judge peoples ability,with tools and torches in posts.We all have a certain way to do things.
be it right or wrong,one thing for sure is that dirty S.O.B. is comin off
I apologise if I offended you..........have a good one
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:33 AM
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I think I might be a bit leery of the torch here too and the drill bit would seem to be the best way to go on this one. Once the fiberglass is out of the way then you can deal with the left over stub if it is still tight.
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRUZR
I apologise if I offended you..........have a good one
NOT AT ALL, we are all just bsing in a virtual garage with a beer in our hand. I just wanted to clarify what I was talking about. Cutting it off and drilling it, Mig welding another bolt to it so you can grab it with a wrench is another thought. There are all different ways. This trick I use is one I have not seen much and it REALLY works like a charm. I use it on exhaust bolts all the time, most would snap off sure as poop stinks. But with a little heat and cool, they turn right off like it was oiled up!

I am not familier with that particular bolt and nut. But I have to assume (I had a 64 Vette and as I remember it was like this) the nuts are not held tight in the body. They are a "caged" nut that is loose in a cage that is slightly bigger than it. If this is the case, cutting or breaking the head off the bolt is going to free up the nut and it will be moving around inside the cage when you try to drill it out. That would be a pain. I am thinking the heat trick on the bolt, CAREFULLY (you are very right, one mans "heat it up" is another mans "melt it to butter") along with vice grips or cutting a slot may get that bugger out of there leaving the nut all happy and threads clean.

Brian
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
I have used this trick for years with great success. Click here

Brian
Thanks...that worked awesome for removing rusted bolts on a Ford PU.
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