Hi all, I have a 2002 Chevy Blaser that has rust holes on the outer side of the frame at the rear door. These holes are approximately 2in x 6in and 2in x 4in and 1in x 2in long give or take. Using a 110V flux core welder, I made a 3 sided 1/8 inch thick flat steel cover to wrap around the 2 sides and bottom of the frame. Can a 110 flux core / gas mig welder securely weld this to the frame or do I need to borrow my neighbors 220 v mig
Hi all, I have a 2002 Chevy Blaser that has rust holes on the outer side of the frame at the rear door. These holes are approximately 2in x 6in and 2in x 4in and 1in x 2in long give or take. Using a 110V flux core welder, I made a 3 sided 1/8 inch thick flat steel cover to wrap around the 2 sides and bottom of the frame. Can a 110 flux core / gas mig welder securely weld this to the frame or do I need to borrow my neighbors 220 v mig
If your flux core MIG is using argon yes you can weld it, if it's using straight CO2 l won't advise it.
Even the bigger 220 MIG won't be using anywhere close to max power.
Make sure you stitch weld, meaning not a solid weld all at once. And also would be better to completely box that Section in, doing 3 sides is more prone to breaking that a complete box. Another little trick is once you weld a stitch( half inch) have a oil gun an spray oil on stitch to adds carbon back to metal but that's up to you, it's just my personal opinion.
You can weld it with a 115, but it will take a little while.
Chances are the welder will heat up and the thermal safety will shut things down after you go for a while.It will eventually cool down and back to work you go
We have a small welder mig/gas 140 snap on and after I burn iron for a while it gets hot and does exactly that so.....
I do a lot of frame repair too so I know firsthand.
Its best to make sure you have cut the rust back to the point where you have solid metal to weld to and by looking at your patch you will be extending the repair into solid metal territory,.... so it looks good.
Should be safe when you are finished.
I like to take a gasket buffer with a sander disc on it and sand the area to be welded so that the metal is clean and shiny. That will make a nicer weld and a lot less popping and splotching while welding.
Thank you guys, much apprieciated ..... I have a Lincoln mig flux core / argon Co2 ..... Unfortunately I don't have a garage, I would have prefered a frame off restoration.
It will also help you with the smaller welder to pre-heat the area with a propane torch, heat added this way makes for a smoother start for the wire feeder, it is heat the arc doesn't have to make and you get a smoother flowing bead.
Same trick gets used with the 220V welder if you were welding 1" thick plate, but you'd use a Oxy/Acetylene torch for even more heat..
The front and back edges of your patch plates should not be cut square. This stiffness discontinuity will cause a stress concentration and lead to cracking. The edges should be V-shaped so the change in stiffness happens gradually over several inches. This also gives you more weld area.
This document is put out by GM and describes best practices for frame alterations and reinforcements. Check out pages 12-15 in particular.
That is a hell of a good paper! I deal with auto manufacturers guidelines every single day at work. They are extremely clear on doing stuff, usually in such a way that you HAVE TO buy new stuff, crazy anal sometimes. I am blown away that GM would have guidelines to modifying the frame laid out so common sense like that!
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