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Old 06-01-2008, 05:23 PM
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rusty metal primer on clean metal, pine trees and brawling

Okay, I might get myself into a hornets nest soon. I have this G Body car (86k miles) I got from my sister a looong time ago. It sat covered (under the pine tree) for 3 years and in a garage for the last 4. I want to start wacking on it as it's got a few small holes in the floors, some rust on the bottom of the doors, also the bottom of the rear quarters. I had covered this with rattle can paint about 10 years ago as the paint was so faded and chalked you could rub your hands on it and it would rub off. I figured I best do something so gave it a light sand and a good dose of that paint. It's on there pretty good still, along with most of the original paint where it wasn't worn through to primer. The rattle can paint does not come off very well with paper as it seems to gum up quickly (might have to do with sitting under the white pine for 3 of those year). I want to take it all down to bare metal in order to fix any and everything I can find. I am not going to finish this with an automotive paint, but rather, Rustoleum Flat Black. I have searched and read about the use primers, and of primer epoxies as opposed to, I guess you'd say, 'regular'. Anyway, I've got a new mill/trans about ready for this 'been in the family for 20 years heirloom of a ride' and it's going to be a subdued/tactical appearing street brawler. I'm not concerned with having to go back over anything should it be problematic, but don't want that because of something I could or should have/have not done. When looking at which primer for rusted and which for clean bare metal, the rusty metal primer as I understand should only be used on rusted metal and not clean metal due to oils... or something like that. So, if I were to use clean metal primer after removing paint, and rusty metal primer for any rusted areas, what can I expect from the transition of one primer to the other - after doing the topcoat using those Rustoleum products? Any opinions as to use of these products? I could always sand the existing finish to a point, apply the flat paint and check for lifting, wrinkling etc. If none, I'd just go ahead and only do the areas that need tending with the appropriate primer and then top it off with the flat black... if that is the 'more right way to do it'. Hmmm, roller > brush, or spray it on?

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Old 06-01-2008, 05:42 PM
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mmm step back slowly from the rattle can paint. the two wont mix .get some PPG primer, if you dont have a compressor u can rent one for the day. if you are going to go to all the trouble of taking it down to bare metal and fixing the dents ect you might as well do it right or it will come back and bite you on the A++ later. and if you do decide to put on a base coat later it wont kinkle, winkle, spilt, crack,or anything else paint can do to turn your hair gray
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Old 06-01-2008, 06:30 PM
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Hold up, no rattle cans now, used those 10 years ago. I want to get to the bare metal, prime, and use the el-cheapo Rustoleum Flat Black - for now. My thinking was to use the same brand primers/paints and not mix them. I'm assuming that PPG is an epoxy??? My dilemma seems to be whether or not the Rustoleum primers will react with one another, or, more specifically, if the rusty type primer would create issues with the flat if not used on rusty enough metal. I want to fix a couple of things and give it that 'look'. It's not going to be anything but a quick deal to get it on the road and have some fun and at least have it protected and last a few years. If it does get a 'new paint job' later, it would get stripped again and be done by a real body/paint dude. I was hoping this paint would work for this time frame, and be easier to remove later than any true automotive paint. Is this type paint an absolute no-go for what I want it to do, for a few years? Car is an '81 and still has the Ziebart sticker in the window, and, it isn't really rusted but does have a few spots I want to fix right away. Enough that I would strip, fix and cover before putting it on the road. I'm looking to be a cheapa$$ on this one and figured that Rustoleum stuff might do me a few of years justice as well as get a fix on the bad before it gets worse. I'm all ears, but like I said, el-cheapo - if it lasts 3 years tops, its all good. After that period of time I would consider going doing a major resto.
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:29 PM
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I would never use ANY primer on metal that has been rusty except epoxy or possibly an etch-primer. Epoxy isn't cheap either...


Why rustoleum?? If cost is a factor, use a cheap urethan like kirker. A gallon will set you back $40 to $60...
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