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Old 11-12-2011, 05:40 PM
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rusty ripples

Hello men, I have a very well seasoned mud truck that i had previously used for rock crawling. The doors and fenders have been rippled up from trees and rocks and I want to paint them but I need to know how to get the rust out of a ripple that sanding can't get to. Is there a chemical that will do this?
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:02 PM
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Google "Rust Converter"... I've used some of this stuff before. (I can't remember the brand, otherwise I'd recommend it.) I was very happy with the results. It converts the rust into a dark-grey/black coating that is tough and prim-able.
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:20 AM
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A wire brush in a drill works fine on small areas.

If using a rust converter and there is any black remaining use the wire brush to remove the black and hit it again with the converter until the steel does not change color any more.
Its at this point that all the rust is gone.
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Old 11-13-2011, 04:12 PM
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Thanks for the info guys, do you think this "rust converter " will also work on the frame?
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:10 PM
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Permatex , along with many other manufacturers can supply you with everything from aerosol to gallon (maybe even drum )

Personally, I'm not a fan of the stuff.
There have been numerous posts on the subject, but the phrase that sticks in my mind is:
"Rust sleeps, but never dies"

It encapsulates rust, and stops it's spread ... as long as you can keep the moisture out.

For the frame ... lots of guys swear by POR-15.
I'm a little fussier. I sandblasted mine, and painted it with Endura EX-2C. It's a polyurethane 2-component industrial/automotive paint famous in this part of the world for it's abrasion resistance.

Sounds about right for a frame, doesn't it?

It can also be mixed to code, so I'm thinking that it might be ideal for the inside of the pickup box as well.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:57 PM
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Generally I just use a spot blaster for those hard to reach spots..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC
... lots of guys swear by POR-15...
That's the stuff I've used, POR-15...
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtread
Thanks for the info guys, do you think this "rust converter " will also work on the frame?
Nope.

Just to remind you about rust converters. They do convert only a micro skim of the top surface of the rust. As mentioned earlier, if you wire wheel the black off, you will find nice brown rust below the ''converted'' surface.

I know this because I had to respray the whole bottom half of my 76 C10 due to the rust converter use. I left the ''converted'' specs of black there and 1-1/2 years later the paint was falling off.

The converter is a great tool to show where the rust is on a panel though. It turns black and allows you to see every spec of rust. Wire wheel the black specs off and repeat.

Get the frame sandblasted and epoxy primed. Personally, I would use bed liner over the epoxy primer.

I used POR 15 and this stuff is basically snake oil.
I have rust coming thru my bucket seat frame on the interior of my truck. It doesn't rain much inside my truck but its still rusting thru.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
...
I used POR 15 and this stuff is basically snake oil.
I have rust coming thru my bucket seat frame on the interior of my truck. It doesn't rain much inside my truck but its still rusting thru.
I was thinking that POR-15 sounded like it was much the same as "rust converter". Is it? I've never had any experience with it.

The bottom lime here is guys, at least in my mind ...there's really only a couple of ways to permanently deal with rust.
1.) REMOVE it by mechanical or chemical means then prime and paint it. If it's in an area that is subject to abrasion ... coat it with something as hard as nails.
2.) REPLACE it, and then follow the same steps to protect it.

We all know that every vehicle mfr has their own "rust-prone" components. I've never seen a 60-66 Chevy/GMC that never developed cancer on the rear of the front fenders. Or an 88-98 Chev/GMC extended cab with rotted-out cab-corners ... and the list goes on and on. The repair-panel business is booming in this area. Cross-Canada

If you don't live in the desert or somewhere sub-tropical ... rust is just a fact of life.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC
I was thinking that POR-15 sounded like it was much the same as "rust converter". Is it? I've never had any experience with it.

The bottom lime here is guys, at least in my mind ...there's really only a couple of ways to permanently deal with rust.
1.) REMOVE it by mechanical or chemical means then prime and paint it. If it's in an area that is subject to abrasion ... coat it with something as hard as nails.
2.) REPLACE it, and then follow the same steps to protect it.

I have some POR 15 left.
I will now use it up inside door panels or places that won't be seen and can use a little protection.

It is not a converter but it is a nice paint that drys hard as rock. It sticks nicely to very rough surfaces only. If not rough it will peel off in sheets.


The converters do as they say and convert ONLY the top surface of the rust to something oxide or whatever.

As you said though, under this coating there is still rust and it needs to be removed.
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:19 AM
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Pugsy, your initial reply in this post makes loads of sense. Thanks for edumacating me!!!! Now I know how to properly use rust converters.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
Pugsy, your initial reply in this post makes loads of sense. Thanks for edumacating me!!!! Now I know how to properly use rust converters.

No problem.

Too bad I had to learn the hard way.

I know a lot of guys won't pay any attention to what I wrote as its human nature to see the quick fixes and to jump on them with the ol' rose colored glasses on.
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
No problem.

Too bad I had to learn the hard way.

I know a lot of guys won't pay any attention to what I wrote as its human nature to see the quick fixes and to jump on them with the ol' rose colored glasses on.
With them rose colored glasses is it possible for them to see the rust that has turned black and needs removed? i think you m ight've described simply what DBM has been trying to tell me about doing.
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:33 PM
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I believe DBM is talking about Ospho.
Not sure if Ospho creates a black ''coating'' (not conversion) for the rust to hide behind.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:34 AM
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That might be it. I'm trying Ospho on the roof of a 68 Rustallion once I finish the 75 Shivalay and 85 Shivalay peekups. We've welded up all the holes on the Mustang roof and I've been working it over with a wire brush at the end of the evening prior to clean up of the shop each night.
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