S-10 Axle play Problem? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2005, 03:11 PM
AMDAP's Avatar
CEO of The AMDAP Mulisha
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Petersburg, Alaska
Age: 31
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Anybody got any input from the pics? I know that something is wrong with that axle, but I can't see why it ended up like that. ANY help is SO appreciated...Thanks!

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2005, 03:25 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Jenison,Michigan
Age: 39
Posts: 183
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The axle shafts look fine, looks like you might need a new spider gear!
Hard to really tell in that pic though......I could be seeing things.
Let's see what someone else thinks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2005, 05:24 PM
1931 Ford 5 window
 

Last journal entry: Door Panels
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Delaware
Age: 65
Posts: 33
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
S10 rear

OK, I just got a 95 S10 rear for my rod and would like to replace the bearings how difficult is it to do and do I need any special tools? Also how much oil do you add back once I'm done with the bearing replacement job? and anything else I should replace while I'm at it?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2005, 08:06 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Alabama
Posts: 59
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The wheel bearings are very easy to replace. Just rent a slide hammer puller at autozone etc. then use it to snatch the old bearings out. Use a socket or tool to tap in the new bearing evenly then put in new wheel seal (put a bit of grease on it so it won't rub too much when you slide in the axle) over that and you are finished. Sounds harder than it is. It take about 2 and 1/2 of those quart size 80-90 gear oil bottles at wally world to fill the rear end. I put it in until it starts to run back out and then it is full.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2005, 10:22 AM
Bumpstick's Avatar
Hammer and a torch
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southeast TX
Age: 54
Posts: 1,258
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My thoughts are that is a gov-lock and either the C clip is worn or possibly the shim that is under the passenger side spider gear is gone or possibly the gear is chewing into the carrier housing...? This would account for the end play... The bevel you mentioned on the passenger side shaft is nothing out of the ordinary from what I have seen...? (axles look good on that end...)

Main reason for the "clunking" sound is the clutch on the left side is binding or does not have the correct lube...? Gov-locks are good for nothing but pulling boats out at the ramp... Any kind of real power or uneven traction and they tend to explode... Go with an Eaton or other good rebuildable aftermarket posi unit even to just replace that junk...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2005, 02:22 PM
AMDAP's Avatar
CEO of The AMDAP Mulisha
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Petersburg, Alaska
Age: 31
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I don't think anything is binding. It is just the axle hitting the pinion shaft and then the c clip hitting the spider gear. The reason I am worried about the bevel, is because it isn't uniform. It is worn more on one side than the other. Also it just looks like an open carrier to me. How do I tell if it has a gov-loc? Also is it hard to change spider gears? Hard like setting a ring and pinion?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2005, 04:25 PM
Bumpstick's Avatar
Hammer and a torch
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southeast TX
Age: 54
Posts: 1,258
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The pic you supplied of the carrier has that block inbetween the 2 smaller spider gears which remindes me of a gov-lock setup...? Possibly those small 10 bolt rears had this even with open carriers...? Put up a pic of the other side of the carrier to be sure...

Also the play on the passenger side might be linked to the shims (or lack of...?) on the passenger side spider drive gear and carrier housing... If the play of the gear is considerable then the spiders gears may be making the popping effect because of the clearance becoming to much at times and the gears tend to bind from the distorted angles...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2005, 11:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sacto, CA
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
s10 axle play

I do not believe it is the axle end play you should be concerned with. Does it only clunk when you turn? If so, the stock GM Gov-lok like you have is prone to have problems. If this is grandmas car I would take the Gov-lok out before it grenades and destroys the whole differential. You can replace it with an open differential. If you wanted to replace axle bearings all you need is a slide hammer, if you do not have one you can rent it from Napa.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2005, 01:37 AM
AMDAP's Avatar
CEO of The AMDAP Mulisha
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Petersburg, Alaska
Age: 31
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the input jawsgear! I was just talking to Bumpstick about replacing the whole thing. I do believe that the clunking is only from the in and out play though. If I sit inside, and have someone pull the axle in and out, it is the exact same sound. Also if I grabbed ahold of the tire, and shook it, it would make the sound. I have a pic of the other side now. It looked totally different than I thought it would, so is it gov-loc? The carrier was lined up just the way the first pics show, when I pulled the pan.

Here's the pic of the other side...

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2005, 09:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sacto, CA
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
s10 axle play

Axle end play is normal. Don't be alarmed by having it. A small trick to eliminating the play would be to ensure that the bearing surface is good. Look for any pitting, grooves, loss of metal. If it is good you can simply put a small tack weld on the end of the axle and grind it down to the necessary clearance. Any questions you can give me a call. 916-922-5297.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2005, 11:53 AM
AMDAP's Avatar
CEO of The AMDAP Mulisha
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Petersburg, Alaska
Age: 31
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How much end play is acceptable?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2005, 01:32 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Vacuum brake bleeder set up
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,245
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMDAP
That is a Gov-lock. Under "normal" conditions it will act just like an open diff. If one wheel starts to spin more than about 100rpm more than the other it will lock solid. It will also unlock at a certain mph (I don't remember what it is but 40mph sounds right). They are known for going BOOM! when they lock and taking out the entire rear end with it.

1/4" of play is too much. I don't remember seeing any exact spec but I would guess any more than 1/8" is too much. If there is too much play you risk the c-clip coming out and loosing the entire wheel/tire/axle...not fun!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2005, 04:35 PM
AMDAP's Avatar
CEO of The AMDAP Mulisha
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Petersburg, Alaska
Age: 31
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks Triaged! That is what I figured. I don't want my grandmas wheel passing her on the road. I've been looking for junked s-10's on the island, but I'm not finding anything yet. So I guess I better figure out how to fix this thing...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2005, 08:03 PM
Bumpstick's Avatar
Hammer and a torch
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southeast TX
Age: 54
Posts: 1,258
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
AMDAP... (figured it was a gov-lock) I would just consider replacing it with either an Eaton unit or to go cheap just get an open carrier and replace it till your ready to invest the $$$...

If you go the open carrier route just change over your ring gear and get new carrier bearings and shim in the new setup and your done...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2005, 10:52 PM
AMDAP's Avatar
CEO of The AMDAP Mulisha
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Petersburg, Alaska
Age: 31
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
In theory could I just swap over the shims that are already there? I would love to learn to set-up gears though. That is the next thing I need to learn. This has just got to hold her over for a while. When I get it, I want to put a 9" in there. So the cheapest solution right now is the best solution. Thanks!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Engine stalling problem JamesRS Engine 3 01-30-2006 12:22 PM
Ignition Problem malibuman66 Electrical 17 01-24-2006 02:05 AM
cv axle boots replace or buy new axle? catscan4free Transmission - Rearend 20 03-05-2004 09:25 PM
gm 10 bolt axle, bearings. hepcat Transmission - Rearend 4 09-20-2003 09:36 AM
Fuel / Carb problem DoubleVision Engine 5 10-28-2002 06:18 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.