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Old 12-10-2011, 05:49 PM
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??? 's about elec. fuel pump install

I have what is probably a dumb question but it's got me stumped . I got rid of the mechanical fuel pump on my SBC and bought an electric pump and regulator . I plumbed it in with 3/8" hard lines and AN fittings . I ran the line from the fuel cell to the pump , the pump to the regulator , and the regulator to the carb . My problem is the pump leaks from the plate that covers the pump . I sent one pump back and I'll be darned but the second one leaks too . Am I doing something wrong ? Is there another way to plumb it ? Does it need a return line ? This isn't my first rodeo and I have always plumbed them like this and never had a problem . But , one thing I noticed is this pump never shuts off . The other ones I have used would run until they got up to pressure , then shut off until it needed to run again to maintain pressure . This one never shuts off and just keeps running until the pressure inside the pump gets so great it begins to drip from the gasket between the pump housing and the cover plate . Please! Someone tell me what I'm doing wrong.

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Old 12-11-2011, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choptop26
I have what is probably a dumb question but it's got me stumped . I got rid of the mechanical fuel pump on my SBC and bought an electric pump and regulator . I plumbed it in with 3/8" hard lines and AN fittings . I ran the line from the fuel cell to the pump , the pump to the regulator , and the regulator to the carb . My problem is the pump leaks from the plate that covers the pump . I sent one pump back and I'll be darned but the second one leaks too . Am I doing something wrong ? Is there another way to plumb it ? Does it need a return line ? This isn't my first rodeo and I have always plumbed them like this and never had a problem . But , one thing I noticed is this pump never shuts off . The other ones I have used would run until they got up to pressure , then shut off until it needed to run again to maintain pressure . This one never shuts off and just keeps running until the pressure inside the pump gets so great it begins to drip from the gasket between the pump housing and the cover plate . Please! Someone tell me what I'm doing wrong.
Any pump should be able to dead-head (full output pressure) and not leak, you're getting defective pumps. What brand? All aftermarket electric pumps will run all the time unless you (or whoever wires it up) comes up with a scheme to modulate it.

Russ
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:46 PM
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Hey there S10 , thanks for confirming my sanity . I never had a pump that wouldn't dead head and not leak . But this is two in a row from the same place and since I'm not the youngest wrench in the toolbox anymore and I am known for an occasional " Brain Fart " I needed to confirm what I thought I knew . The pumps aren't the cheapest around and I got them from a reputable performance shop but maybe they got a bad batch of pumps . I'll call again in the morning and see what they have to say . They replaced the first one but it is a pain in the rear because they told me to fedex the first pump back to them and after they recieved it they would then send out the replacement . So I'm without my car for a week at a pop . Doesn't seem like a good way to treat customers but maybe they have gotten burned . I'll see how they handle it this time . Thanks again .
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:40 PM
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Do you have pictures and part numbers?

I'm also fairly sure that you are aware of the fact that there are 2 different types of tapered fittings ... is it possible that you may have a mis-match between 37 (AN / JIC) and 45 (SAE) flare?

Quote:
Wikipedia
JIC fittings, defined by the SAE J514 and MIL-F-18866 standards, are a type of flare fitting machined with a 37-degree flare seating surface. JIC (Joint Industry Council) fittings are widely used in fuel delivery and fluid power applications, especially where extremely high pressure is involved. The SAE J514 standard replaces the MS16142 military specification, although some tooling is still listed under MS16142. JIC fittings are dimensionally identical to AN (Army-Navy) fittings, but are produced to less exacting tolerances and are generally less costly. 45-degree flare fittings are similar in appearance, but are not interchangeable.
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:43 PM
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There's always a chance of me making a mistake , just not this time . No leaks from any of my 37 deg. -an flare fittings . Only leaks from the end plate that covers the pump mechanism itself . Don't know what you want pics and part #'s for but there's no name given or on it , just a #1054 so I don't know who made it . I'll see what they say when I call .
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:52 PM
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Is this it?

Sysonic (TSP "Total Street Performance") #JM1054

Just going with the "picture worth a 1000 words" philosophy.
I know you said you thought it was leaking from the plate on the bottom.

I just thought I might throw out the "37 vs 45 fittings thing" just in case, as it's a common source of confusion (and leaks) for many folks.

I meant no disrespect ...
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:53 AM
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Very similar to that pump . The finish on the mounting bracket and motor housing on the ones I got are bright chrome . The motor endplate on mine is shaped a bit different and has red and black leads . The pumps I have both leak between the bottom plate and the cast aluminum pump housing . Looking at the pic you posted , the leak is on the back side ( side not shown ) . The side away from the camera is designed a little different than the side shown in the pic .
No offense taken and didn't intend to sound like it . You made a very valid point about the different flares . You are also correct about the pic making the thread more understandable . Guess I need to learn how to post pics !
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:38 AM
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safety first ! !

do you have a crash shut off switch ? Ford rangers and bronco II have one on the inside of the firewall above the passenger foot area, easy to get and a reset button on top.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:07 AM
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I'd go after that thin bottom plate. It see the full pressure and is pretty thin. I have a Blue pump that developec a seep/leak around the plate. I took it off made a new gasket and carfeully sanded the plate flat with a disc sander. Then I finished it very smooth. When installing it tighten the blots up as evenly as possible to prevent warping. This fixed mine.....17k miles and 2+years. If the bolts are tightened too much the plate bends down at the edges and causes a leak.

I have a similar pump called a lift pump on my Cummins diesel and it has never leaked in 10 yr and 250k miles.

This failing I think a new thicker plate finished the same way would probably work.

Some of these pumps do need a return line. easy to do. Just tee into the output and install a check valve set a couple pounds higher than you use at the reg.

Good vibrations Racing has them for about $35. there are others but I use lots of their stuff.
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:42 PM
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Called the place I got it and they agreed it's a bad pump and said they would send me a diiferent pump . The guy said he would call me right back and tell me how to ship the bad pump back . Waited all day and never heard back . Called him again the next day and he profusely appologized for dropping the ball and not calling me back . Said he would get right on it and call right back . That was noon yesterday and haven't heard from him yet . What is up with this place ? I have a whole list of stuff totalling over $1K that I planned on ordering from them if they did good on the first order . Forget that ! They cured me .
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:14 PM
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any place like that does not deserve your money order your parts else where try s&w race cars try jegs or summit, for fuel items go holley or blp, maybe even quickfuel. iv found buying name brand parts may cost more but not only are you buying the part your buying the name that backs the part..just my 2 cents
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choptop26
Called the place I got it and they agreed it's a bad pump and said they would send me a diiferent pump . The guy said he would call me right back and tell me how to ship the bad pump back . Waited all day and never heard back . Called him again the next day and he profusely appologized for dropping the ball and not calling me back . Said he would get right on it and call right back . That was noon yesterday and haven't heard from him yet . What is up with this place ? I have a whole list of stuff totalling over $1K that I planned on ordering from them if they did good on the first order . Forget that ! They cured me .
Wasn't KMJ was it? I have that same pump, and mine leaked from the same area. I did a new gasket like Bentwings mentioned, using slightly thicker material, and it's never leaked a drop since.
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:13 PM
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No , it was Skip White Performance . Has anyone had any dealings with them , good or bad ? Guess I'll call again tommorrow and if no results , screw them , I will fix it myself using bentwings method . Hey timothale , how does that crash shut off switch work ? Got a part # ? Sounds like a great thing to have .
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choptop26
No , it was Skip White Performance . Has anyone had any dealings with them , good or bad ? Guess I'll call again tommorrow and if no results , screw them , I will fix it myself using bentwings method . Hey timothale , how does that crash shut off switch work ? Got a part # ? Sounds like a great thing to have .

NAPA # FPS100

Ford called them an inertia switch. Others call them a fuel pump cut-out switch. Activated by inertia ... when they sense a sudden change in direction (i.e. "g-forces" from a crash or roll-over) they cut the power to the pump.

Warning ... not cheap.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:27 AM
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I have bought several items form Skip. Never an issue. Emails answered quickly.
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