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Old 08-13-2007, 10:05 PM
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S10 Project

So I'm building a 350 engine up. 2-bolt main, performance heads, hopefully 400-425 horsepower. I want to put it in a mid 80's S10 pickup with a short bed. How do I maintain traction with this much power? I want it to be a street car and want to be able to whip tuner cars with it. I don't want to have to put racing slicks or add much weight over the rear end because that will slow it down. I would consider getting wide tires that are meant for the street, but I don't imagine that would help much. What do you hotrodders usually do to solve this problem?
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:30 PM
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im about to let you in on a secret...but you cant tell any of your buddies....we cant have everyone knowing about this. super glue..gotta be good stuff, not that cheap 4 for a dollar kind.
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Old 08-14-2007, 04:43 PM
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but seriously, how does everyone keep the wheels on the ground?
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Old 08-14-2007, 05:34 PM
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I have a buddy with a mild 400 in an S10, runs in the 12's.

You Need a posi...

To really stick you will need a 4 link, properly adjusted to lift the front end.
Most of your engine will be in front of the axle, not good.

Use a full tank of gas and drag radials or M/T tires. Anything less and it will just be a sit-n-spin.

Keith
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Old 08-15-2007, 05:06 PM
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what exactly is a posi? I know its the rear differential, but whats special about one? and whats a 4-link?
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:51 PM
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With your stock rear end only one wheel will spin, with Posi both will spin

A 4 link is a suspension is adjustable usually used for racing, You probably don't really need a 4 link, ladder bars or caltracs will probably be plenty.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:00 PM
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okay, that makes sense. What if I got a 4wd S10? Would I need to switch the whole front end out, too? transfer case?
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Old 08-22-2007, 05:34 AM
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Hey man- I just dropped a 350 in an '85 s10.

As far as traction goes: a posi will be your best bet. You can get a rear end from a four wheel drive s10, or a 4.3/5speed models that have a locking diff. The 4x4 models may be a couple of inches wider though. 8.5 inch rear ends came in some models, and will handle more power than the stock 7.5 inch rear in the earlier trucks.

Running slicks, and hard launches will break the stock rear. Not so much with street tires, because of the lesser traction. A good set of gears, axles, a diff, and support cover will add a lot of strength; But if you're really gonna be hooking hard, I'd consider going with a larger rear like the 8.5; Or even the Ford Explorer 8.8 inch rear. Both will bolt right in, more or less.
The 8.8 is a few inches wider than the s10 rear, but pretty much fits with little problems. Just run more backspacing on your wheels (you can see this swap HERE )

Also- regardless of which rear end you choose, something like cal-trac bars would be greatly beneficial. Check out this site for how to make your own Traction Bars.

Hope that helped. Oh, and we all wanna kick the ricer's butts

Nooj
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:21 AM
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if you get outrun by the tuner cars, it will be your fault.
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:48 AM
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Seriously learning how to drive one of those things will help a lot in a traction limited car..gotta learn just how much throttle you can use to get a good launch out of that thing..the posi and some sticky tires will help as well as some cal-tracs or a link style rear mounting..

Sam
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:37 PM
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The following is from an article I wrote for the wiki and may help you understand a little more about gears and traction......

The very first modification done to an otherwise stock auto/truck should be a different ring and pinion gear. A good compromise between mileage and acceleration in a street car is somewhere around 3.70:1 ratio and should be complemented with new shocks and new bushings in the spring/suspension link mountings. If the owner intends to change this vehicle into a semi-serious street/drag car, then additional aftermarket traction devices such as anti-wheel hop products and tires with different rubber compound should be considered. Even more serious competitors should consider mini-tubs or full tubs in the car to accomodate wide racing slicks. A large number of racers who show up at my track mount slicks on separate wheels (wide steel wheels will work just fine) to be bolted to the car after they drive it in off the street.

See this article I wrote to understand why and how a shorter rear gear will accelerate the car quicker with no changes to the motor, transmission or torque converter. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...he_car_quicker

Of course, when it comes to traction, some type of slip-limiting device like the Chevrolet Posi-Traction or aftermarket Detroit Locker or Auburn units or similar units will do an excellent job of hooking up both tires. However, these are not mandatory to get both tires to pull and not spin the passenger side tire.

With a front-motor, rear-drive vehicle, the chassis twists diagonally upon application of power. The left front gets lighter and the right rear gets lighter. The right front and the left rear get heavier. This is why you will see the right rear tire spin while the left rear hooks up on a car with a "one-legger" or "open" type differential. The right rear is light and needs additional weight applied to it. This can be accomplished cheaply and easily by installing an air shock on the RIGHT REAR ONLY to replace the conventional shock absorber on that side. Experimenting with the air pressure in the shock will allow you to equalize the weight applied to both rear tires on acceleration and "hook up" both tires without going to the expense of installing a locking device in the differential. Just keep adding air pressure to the shock until you have two equal-length black tire stripes on the pavement when accellerating from a stand-still. I've done this many times and have seen other racers do it with equal success. An additional benefit is that the car will be easier to drive at the strip with an open differential that has been "weight equalized".
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awoodman
So I'm building a 350 engine up. 2-bolt main, performance heads, hopefully 400-425 horsepower. I want to put it in a mid 80's S10 pickup with a short bed. How do I maintain traction with this much power? I want it to be a street car and want to be able to whip tuner cars with it. I don't want to have to put racing slicks or add much weight over the rear end because that will slow it down. I would consider getting wide tires that are meant for the street, but I don't imagine that would help much. What do you hotrodders usually do to solve this problem?

Wider tires do help....alot. Really do need posi here. On my mustang I was running the stock single track rear end out of an lx, I couldn't hook up untill I hit 3rd gear So, I grabbed an 8.8 out of a gt, and through some wider tires on the back, got some quick weight transfer coilover from moroso, and I was just fine. I had the same problem as you though, lots of power, and no weight over the rear tires (hatch back). But yeah do those and you should be fine.
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumberjacknooj
Hey man- I just dropped a 350 in an '85 s10.

As far as traction goes: a posi will be your best bet. You can get a rear end from a four wheel drive s10, or a 4.3/5speed models that have a locking diff. The 4x4 models may be a couple of inches wider though. 8.5 inch rear ends came in some models, and will handle more power than the stock 7.5 inch rear in the earlier trucks.

Running slicks, and hard launches will break the stock rear. Not so much with street tires, because of the lesser traction. A good set of gears, axles, a diff, and support cover will add a lot of strength; But if you're really gonna be hooking hard, I'd consider going with a larger rear like the 8.5; Or even the Ford Explorer 8.8 inch rear. Both will bolt right in, more or less.
The 8.8 is a few inches wider than the s10 rear, but pretty much fits with little problems. Just run more backspacing on your wheels (you can see this swap HERE )

Also- regardless of which rear end you choose, something like cal-trac bars would be greatly beneficial. Check out this site for how to make your own Traction Bars.

Hope that helped. Oh, and we all wanna kick the ricer's butts

Nooj
do you know about swapping a2.8 4 a 350
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:32 PM
70 Chevelle SS 396
 
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There are some good websites for V8 swap info. Plus, there's the V8 swap manual by JTR. That would be a very good manual to have and read over before doing the swap. I didn't use it- and I didn't have a "stock" truck to start with, so it was a difficult learning experience for me.

What all you'll need and what you'll need to do depends on what you're starting with (year model, current eng & trans).
Where are you located in Alabama?

Nooj
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Old 12-19-2007, 12:40 AM
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You are pretty much heading into a knife fight armed with a water pistol no matter how you cut it. Do you know what king of hp/weight ratio a hot tuner runs? It is scarey what kind of power they make. You might beat a few of the posers but forget going after the serious ones with anything less than a radical all out race truck.
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