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Old 10-23-2009, 02:44 AM
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S10 springs, spindles, or both?

I have a 93 S10 blazer, put a stock 350 in it. But, all the hardware is wore out. (balljoints, bushings, etc..) Since I have to rebuild the front end i'm going to lower it. I'm going for a 3"front drop, 4" rear. Should I just slap in some 3" springs, or do I need spindles, or do I need both? Not sure what to do here...

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Old 10-23-2009, 12:53 PM
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lowering

check around and find some lower control arms that have 3 inch pockets for the springs to sit into. this will lower the front with now other modifications and the rear you can install lowering blocks very easy. check with a company called Rodster .com i have a S10 and that's where i got mine. search the web for good prices. there is no reason to change spindles. then purchase replacements for the worn out stuff. the lower control arms come with new bushings

Last edited by sedan delivery; 10-23-2009 at 12:55 PM. Reason: left out something
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:47 AM
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Lowering the front end 3" with just the springs will put your upper a-arm at quite an angle. This may cause the ball joint to run out of travel on a large bump. Your best bet is to install 2" dropped spindles and lower it the rest of the way with the springs. If done this way you will still be able to align the front end, will have increased camber gain on the front end, and won't stress the upper ball joint.

Depending on how you use your truck, you can remove a leaf from the rear spring to soften the ride and lower it some at the same time, then use lowering blocks to get it where you want it.

Andy
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:31 PM
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lowering

lowering the front end with lower control arms with 3 inch pockets for the spring to sit in does not do anything to upper control arms. i have had mine in or 4 years and had no adverse problems or tire wear. the front end was aligned perfectly and everything was fine.. this is your choice ..good luck
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sedan delivery
lowering the front end with lower control arms with 3 inch pockets for the spring to sit in does not do anything to upper control arms. i have had mine in or 4 years and had no adverse problems or tire wear. the front end was aligned perfectly and everything was fine.. this is your choice ..good luck
Raise your truck up with a jack 3" to it's original ride height and look/measure the angle of your upper control arms. Then lower it to it's current ride height and measure the angle again. You will then see what I am referring to.

Andy
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:57 PM
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go with 2 inch drop spindles and 1 inch drop coils. your lower a arms will set level that way. belltech 1 inch drop coils for 82-93 are 610 lb. spring rate and a 94-up are 800 lb.. id obviously go with 800 lb.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Bell+Tech/146/4202/10002/-1#
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:53 PM
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lowering

A: With 3" taken out of the ride height, 1/2 degree of negative camber designed into the lowered front A-arms, and wider passenger spec. tires, the S10 has a very car-like ride.
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:29 PM
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i use the 265/50/15 tires all around, and it handles real good at high speed.
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Old 10-30-2009, 12:58 AM
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well, i went with 2" spindles and 2" springs. A little lower than i wanted but parts were cheap. I also found some 4" drop leaf springs on e-bay. The ride is great. There is a poly rebuild kit on ebay that covers everything on the front end. I highly recomend this kit. It's only like 200 bucks and some change. Thanks for all the advice fellas. Can't ask for a better ride. Now to get rid of these ugly stock wheels and 205\55's
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cluna
well, i went with 2" spindles and 2" springs. A little lower than i wanted but parts were cheap. I also found some 4" drop leaf springs on e-bay. The ride is great. There is a poly rebuild kit on ebay that covers everything on the front end. I highly recommend this kit. It's only like 200 bucks and some change. Thanks for all the advice fellas. Can't ask for a better ride. Now to get rid of these ugly stock wheels and 205\55's
if u decide to go lower in the back with blocks, i recommend extruded lowering blocks. they help on traction, and really help if u fill them with lead.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runn141
if u decide to go lower in the back with blocks, i recommend extruded lowering blocks. they help on traction, and really help if u fill them with lead.
You ARE kidding about the lead, right?? It's right up there on the rediculous idea scale. Extruded blocks are stronger than cast blocks, but using any block at all hurts traction and is not recommended on any leaf suspension that has to deal with any decent amount of power.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
You ARE kidding about the lead, right?? It's right up there on the rediculous idea scale. Extruded blocks are stronger than cast blocks, but using any block at all hurts traction and is not recommended on any leaf suspension that has to deal with any decent amount of power.
i understand that what your saying is that blocks cause axle wrap. right? which would hurt traction. but extruded blocks did better than non extruded, i guess take my advice for what its worth. now the 22lb. of lead dead weight on each tire i like because i think it helps me in the turns. i didnt spin out anymore after i done it. and it helps in the snow. but there is other mods i do to these trucks that most dont understand and find rediculous.
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:54 PM
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axle wrap yes and hard o the leaf springs can cause broken main leaf

see it happen often.

doing it correctly is priceless and safer
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:30 PM
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but if someone isnt gonna be drag racing and just driving it on the road,theyll be ok. ive yet to break a leaf spring, not sayin it wont happen though.
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