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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2010, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
Carb will need to be converted to blow through. Or go fuel injection. How much boost was it making? How did the turbos spool and at what rpm?
Thanks for the info,i wish that was a cheap fix because im not really interested in putting any money into this just so it witll work. im not really sure on exact numbers because i dont have gadges or anything hooked up but i would say it really starts to spool around 2500-3000 but not sure how much boost it has but do know it has enough that it would make a huge different if all if it was blowing in for sure. hope your project works, good luck

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2010, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnanam
Thanks for the info,i wish that was a cheap fix because im not really interested in putting any money into this just so it witll work. im not really sure on exact numbers because i dont have gadges or anything hooked up but i would say it really starts to spool around 2500-3000 but not sure how much boost it has but do know it has enough that it would make a huge different if all if it was blowing in for sure. hope your project works, good luck
what did u use for turbo manifolds? im thinking about using some stock center dumb manifolds and welding some 2" pipe onto a T25 flange.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2010, 09:28 PM
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Zildjian, you may also want to consider using a BBC oil pump and drilling the main saddles in the block for oil squirt cooling jets to spray the bottom of the cast pistons in that 305, to aid cooling the piston and help reliability.

I don't know if this is absolutely necessary as I have no turbo experience, but have read up on it, a lot of foreign factory turbo engines have them.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2010, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
what did u use for turbo manifolds? im thinking about using some stock center dumb manifolds and welding some 2" pipe onto a T25 flange.
All i did was take 1/4 inch plate and made the flange it needed and built the rest with 2 1/2 ID pipe running into it and bolted the turbo on.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2010, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Zildjian, you may also want to consider using a BBC oil pump and drilling the main saddles in the block for oil squirt cooling jets to spray the bottom of the cast pistons in that 305, to aid cooling the piston and help reliability.

I don't know if this is absolutely necessary as I have no turbo experience, but have read up on it, a lot of foreign factory turbo engines have them.
Do you know where i have to drill and tap? If you can give me dimensions I would def consider it.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2010, 07:14 PM
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i got the first turbo today. they are Garret T25 units and .42/.49ar

Last edited by zildjian4life218; 05-09-2010 at 05:16 PM.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2010, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
Do you know where i have to drill and tap? If you can give me dimensions I would def consider it.
I can give you the basic idea and some dimensions. The holes are drilled in the main saddles on an angle to point at the wrist pin/rod small end when at mid travel in the bore. This ensures that as the piston moves up and down the bore the oil jet will cover from one side of the underside of the piston to the other. The feed side of these holes comes out into the main saddle about 5/16" or so toward the oil pan rail (one each side)from the factory oil hole in each main saddle. You then have to grind a small connecting channel slot from each hole to the factory oil hole below the main bearing insert(main saddle) The holes are tapped at the upper end for a Holley air bleed jet with an .020-.028" hole in it.

If you have David Vizard's book "How to Build Max Performance Small Block Chevy's on a Budget" is has pics of exactly where they are placed.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2010, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
I can give you the basic idea and some dimensions. The holes are drilled in the main saddles on an angle to point at the wrist pin/rod small end when at mid travel in the bore. This ensures that as the piston moves up and down the bore the oil jet will cover from one side of the underside of the piston to the other. The feed side of these holes comes out into the main saddle about 5/16" or so toward the oil pan rail (one each side)from the factory oil hole in each main saddle. You then have to grind a small connecting channel slot from each hole to the factory oil hole below the main bearing insert(main saddle) The holes are tapped at the upper end for a Holley air bleed jet with an .020-.028" hole in it.

If you have David Vizard's book "How to Build Max Performance Small Block Chevy's on a Budget" is has pics of exactly where they are placed.
i will be ordering that book within the next couple days
this one right http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/r...2494847&sr=8-1
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2010, 12:37 PM
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Hey eric I ordered the book from amazon. Are these the air bleeds you were talking about? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-142-22/
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2010, 03:06 PM
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That's the book, and those are the bleeds. The book you have coming shows the location and mentions pressing a restricter in the hole but doesn't give sizes. It is an a short section on nitrous piston cooling but it also applies to turbo's

The Holley bleed and the bleed size came from one of Vizard's other books - "How to Work With and Modify Chevy Cranks, Rods, and Pistons". This book is currently out of print and going for upwards of $150 on Amazon. A friend of mine has this book and I took notes from it and added them to my Vizard "...Max Performance..." book. I tell you this so you won't be alarmed when you get the book you ordered and you see that it doesn't give the bleed size, just shows how it is done.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2010, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
That's the book, and those are the bleeds. The book you have coming shows the location and mentions pressing a restricter in the hole but doesn't give sizes. It is an a short section on nitrous piston cooling but it also applies to turbo's

The Holley bleed and the bleed size came from one of Vizard's other books - "How to Work With and Modify Chevy Cranks, Rods, and Pistons". This book is currently out of print and going for upwards of $150 on Amazon. A friend of mine has this book and I took notes from it and added them to my Vizard "...Max Performance..." book. I tell you this so you won't be alarmed when you get the book you ordered and you see that it doesn't give the bleed size, just shows how it is done.

Alright thanks for the heads up. I will be posting progress and pictures as i put the motor together. I want to get the bottom end together in the next couple weeks.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2010, 05:49 PM
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Hey i was helping my machinist clean out his shop today and he gave me a set of 487X heads that need one exhaust seat installed. Should I use these instead of the 882s? Are they any good? Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
Hey i was helping my machinist clean out his shop today and he gave me a set of 487X heads that need one exhaust seat installed. Should I use these instead of the 882s? Are they any good? Thanks in advance!
I have gone 12.30's with a simple solid cam ,short rod, 9-1 compression 383(3700lb car) using a home ported set of these 487X heads. Intake ports are supposed to be bigger than 487(hence the X designation) but I didn't check that, just ported and installed 2.02 and 1.6 valves. Pretty much just a bowl blend, guide slimming, and light port clean-up, widened as much as possible at the pinch, and clearanced the chamber around the intake valve.

Definately a better head than the 882's, heavier casting than later 882's.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2010, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
I have gone 12.30's with a simple solid cam ,short rod, 9-1 compression 383(3700lb car) using a home ported set of these 487X heads. Intake ports are supposed to be bigger than 487(hence the X designation) but I didn't check that, just ported and installed 2.02 and 1.6 valves. Pretty much just a bowl blend, guide slimming, and light port clean-up, widened as much as possible at the pinch, and clearanced the chamber around the intake valve.

Definately a better head than the 882's, heavier casting than later 882's.
What does it generally cost to have the seats installed?
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2010, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
What does it generally cost to have the seats installed?
Well, you'll need a valve job with a new seat, and since you're doing that you may as well get new valves... cheapest "I just need it done" solution is going to be around $100. To go with larger valves and have all the seats done to match along with some bowl blending- $500.

Can he avoid putting in a new seat by moving up a valve size? Often this can save it. It costs a little more but you end up with larger valves- you gain something from your expense rather than just making it as good as it was before.
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