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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2008, 08:19 PM
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Ed S.
 
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From 69 work in progress

Quote:
These pic's represent 14 hrs of soaking. Notice how much the Safest Rust Removal chemical has darkened in 14 hrs.!




I got the pictures up but I lost the 3rd email.

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Last edited by Scode68; 06-16-2008 at 08:28 PM.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2008, 11:09 PM
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..best rust inhibitor..

..Live in Southern Arizona..

Although..I just came in from working on a rust free (son's car) in 109* temp...and need beer infusion...
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:10 PM
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This is some awesome information. Lots of different input and techniques. I will have to try the molasses thing....I'll get momma to make up some pancakes and I can have breakfast and de-rust stuff at the same time.

One thing maybe some folks might need to keep in mind is that unless you're building a real show stopper, there are areas of a vehicle that may have some surface rust on them that really don't need to be dealt with. I'm not trying to start any trouble at all, but it could save some people a lot of money in rust treatments, sandblasting, and having to buy special primers, etc.

I'm talking about on the inside of the top, upper areas of door skins, inside of a hood, upper areas of quarter panels, etc. Some guys see a little rust and freak out. You gotta remember, that car is 30, or more years old. The rust has never gone past that stage....and probably never will. Factories never did as good a job on these inner areas as outer, paint-wise; usually it's just misted here and there. But if it's hidden by a headliner, or inside a door where it wont' be seen, I wouldn't do anything. In some circles, surface rust is considered a natural protectant.

Back in my 4 wheeling days, guys used to squirt 90 wt. gear oil into the closed in areas of their Jeeps and off-roaders. Just let it run down the inside of the panels into the bottom. Some of those old Jeeps are still around today, after 30 some years and never rusted out. I'm talking in Ohio, after many really tough and muddy trailrides.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2008, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalesy
This is some awesome information. Lots of different input and techniques. I will have to try the molasses thing....I'll get momma to make up some pancakes and I can have breakfast and de-rust stuff at the same time.

One thing maybe some folks might need to keep in mind is that unless you're building a real show stopper, there are areas of a vehicle that may have some surface rust on them that really don't need to be dealt with. I'm not trying to start any trouble at all, but it could save some people a lot of money in rust treatments, sandblasting, and having to buy special primers, etc.

I'm talking about on the inside of the top, upper areas of door skins, inside of a hood, upper areas of quarter panels, etc. Some guys see a little rust and freak out. You gotta remember, that car is 30, or more years old. The rust has never gone past that stage....and probably never will. Factories never did as good a job on these inner areas as outer, paint-wise; usually it's just misted here and there. But if it's hidden by a headliner, or inside a door where it wont' be seen, I wouldn't do anything. In some circles, surface rust is considered a natural protectant.

Back in my 4 wheeling days, guys used to squirt 90 wt. gear oil into the closed in areas of their Jeeps and off-roaders. Just let it run down the inside of the panels into the bottom. Some of those old Jeeps are still around today, after 30 some years and never rusted out. I'm talking in Ohio, after many really tough and muddy trailrides.
My thoughts too!, I dont regard those bumper brackets as rusty,Just a bit of surface oxide . To clean things like that I have a bench grinder with a wire buff that I use to clean with. Quick simple and cheap .
This is rust..Mercedes rocker box

and this..Tatra trailing arm.
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