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Old 03-13-2008, 04:19 PM
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Safest Rust Remover

I am tearing my 62 Impala apart and I have some rust and I have read all the post on rust removal and pro15 ect. I am just curious on the "safest Rust Removal product" If anyone has had any experience with it.

I use some rust bullet on a area in my trunk and I am getting some surface rust already so I am going to have to redo parts, but that is fine, lesson learned.

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Old 03-13-2008, 04:44 PM
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You said that you have read the threads on rust removal. Did you read the large one from Randy Ferguson? Randy is a Master Metalshaper, and really knows his stuff. Once you follow his proceedures, you can apply some epoxy primer and take care of your problems.

Aaron
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:09 PM
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I did I was just curious on the product Safest rust remover that is all. I have Randy's printed out to use. I was just cursing the internet and was mostly surfing the internet and found it and was mostly curious and if it it caused hydrogen embitterment, which was asked on there web sites forum in January and there has been no response so I was looking to see if others here had heard of this. I am a information junkie and like to know about these other products so I can let others know if they work or not. If I had come here before Rust bullet I would not be out that money

But thank you for the input.
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Old 03-13-2008, 06:02 PM
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Safest?

Elbow grease.

Something that it seems no-one has now.

The love of soft living will be the downfall of this country.



Sorry guess I'm just in a bad mood
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Old 03-14-2008, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holder350
Safest?

Elbow grease.

Something that it seems no-one has now.

The love of soft living will be the downfall of this country.



Sorry guess I'm just in a bad mood
------------------------------------------------------------------
LOL!!

Only way to fix rust right.
Sand blast or media.
Grinding.
Randy's way.
Or cutting and replace.
Band-aids don't work long term, period.

Safest way? If you mean personally, anything you do to a car is unsafe form pumping gas to getting oil on your hands.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:16 AM
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Im curious as well....

So does this product cause Hydrogen embrittlement? There site says that it is not an acid. What is the chemical or reaction that causes this? I agree that this restoration work has no magic bullets. But I guess I have tried to understand what is happening to make steel brittle? I also saw a post on here about use of citric acid to remove rust? Thoughts anyone?
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Old 04-22-2008, 05:27 AM
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I think some have taken the original thread owners request for information on the safest product to use in the wrong context i.e. personal safety rather than what I think he meant was the safest product to use without damaging the part and causing embrittlement.

Just my thoughts on reading this thread over.

ikwhite
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:00 AM
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Safest rust removal

I am not sure if you mean safest for you, the car, or the environment. I have used the electrolysis method, Phosphoric acid method, and just mechanical cleaning.
Electrolysis (battery charger, and Arm and Hammer super washing soda) with steel (NOT STAINLESS) works fairly well, you need to scrape the sacrificial anode every day or so, I just do that into a garbage can. It does not get the parts totally clean, you still have to do some mechanical cleaning. It also takes a long time, not useful in a production shop, but for an at home person, it works good. I have tried to get an answer on metal prep after electrolysis, but have not gotten one yet. It can lead to hydrogen embrittlement. It can also remove the old paint, and primer, sometimes.
Phosphoric acid works well. See Randy Ferguson's thread. Wear gloves.
Mechanical cleaning works also. (sandblasting, sanding, grinding)
Safest for you, Electrolysis, phosphoric acid, Mechanical cleaning, in that order,
Safest for the car, Phosphoric acid, Electrolysis, mechanical cleaning.
The reason I chose for changing the order is hydrogen embrittlement. On non structural body panels, hydrogen embrittlement is not a problem, on engine connecting rods, or flywheels it is a huge concern. Suspension parts would also concern me with the electrolysis method.
Safest for the environment, mechanical cleaning methods. Just sweep the floor, and discard the rust dust in the trash. But you have to wear eye protection, dust masks, and gloves, and exercise a lot of common sense.
Mechanical methods do remove some good metal.

Last edited by DanielC; 04-22-2008 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 04-22-2008, 10:00 PM
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rust

To me one of the quickest and oldest ways is to sand blast and or media blast the rust, replace rotted metal, media or sand blast the welds and shrinks followed by metal prep and bare metal primer. I have used Dupont Vari Prime for many years with great results. I have had good luck just spraying lacquer primer over metal prepped steel. I have recently tried DTM primers but it has not been long enough for me to evaluate (only 3 years but no rust yet.) Many others have used DTM primers longrer than I have with great results. I just tried Safest Rust Remover, it removed light surface rust quickly embedded rust in old grind marks and pitting takes longer than phosphoric acid. Both are to slow for me I grab the sand blaster. Safest is very gentle on hands. As a dip for hardware it works great. I have tried electrolsis it is slow but it works. I saw a post where a complete frame was done this way.Muratic acid is fast very dangerous and removes metal as well as rust. Rust appears almost immediately after derusting if not followed by phosphoric acid. The ecoat system also appears to be one of the best options.
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:36 PM
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I use randys method

but i start with 3m stripper discs first in a 7 inch sander. That gets me to bare metal, then phospho acid,then epoxy prime. If i got rot i weld in new metal. Mike
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:40 PM
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My intent of the post

I was trying to find out information on a produce called Safest rust remover Here is a link http://www.safestrustremover.com/ that is all.
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:51 PM
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Safest

Sorry. It works.
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:59 PM
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Don't get me wrong I appreciate all the other input. I was just looking at some surface rust under my car and was trying to formulate a plan on where to go. I have been thinking of taking the frame off and cleaning the underside of the car and this product if it works like they say it does could make that process easer. If I do not remove the frame than I may have to get a sand blaster or a sander for my air compressor and deal with some of the spot rust. So looking at all the options and will go from there So really truly thank you all for the input. I have almost talked myself into buying a welder and doing the body repairs myself as well.
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Old 04-23-2008, 04:12 PM
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safest

To get the bottom clean you would have to hook up a pump and collection tray to keep the metal wet long enough for the rust remover to remove all the rust. There is a picture of some one using that method to clean a differential while still installed in the car on there web site or a related google search. It will take time but would not be as messy as sandblasting. I was not complaining. I often give an opinion instead of an answer when I answer a question.
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Old 04-24-2008, 12:39 PM
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I use a product that you can get from Home Depot call The Must For Rust!
It work real well on surface rust and has an inhibitor so if you don't get to painting right a way it will not rust over. I have not tested it past a 3-4 day window but seem to work well.

Craig
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