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Old 03-25-2010, 07:39 PM
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same old chevy starter problem

I know this question has often been asked....i have looked at the archives but yet have not found the solution to my chevy sb starter problem. i can manually turn the engine over by hand with screwdriver against the (153) tooth good flywheel. the starters do not want to turn the engine over. I have a good hot battery & am jumping from the battery directly to the hot lug on the starter & grounding to the front of the starter. the curren starter & bendix are new.(the starter will eat up a broom handle-during a bench test)....I use a paper clip to check the clearance between the bendix & flywheel & thats more than adequate. I have shimmed the starter up to .083. I also tried shimming one side only on the starter bolts. I have added a front support strap to the block. I also replaced the knurled 10 mm starter bolts(straight across pattern) w/new knurled chevy starter bolts. all teeth are good on the flywheel. I have also tapered the inside of the teeth- where they mesh with the bendix using a die grinder. I am sure there are other things that I have tried that i do not recall at this time..... oh yes, the bendix is not fully withdrawing. I have shimmed the bendix spring to strengthen it.....I am open to suggestions.

thanks in advance,

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Old 03-25-2010, 07:55 PM
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You should'nt need to do any work (grinding) on new starter teeth if you are using a quality starter. Are you sure you are using the correct starter bendix for a 153 tooth flywheel?
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Old 03-25-2010, 08:01 PM
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I have had my share of problems w/ chevy starters. Always a replacement from Napa, Advance, Pep-boys ETC. Assuming the engine does not have any problems, I would spend the money on a good quality high performance starter. I got one from summit for about 150 bucks. I have had it on 3 motors and its 5 yrs.old. Well worth the money. Oh yeah, grinding is a no -no
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Old 03-25-2010, 08:29 PM
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I am not sure what your problem is. Is the starter not strong enough to spin the motor or do the teeth jump or does the drive gear not engage the flex plate? What is your compression ratio? All OEM and their replacements are designed for low compression motors and if you have increased yours above 9.5 to 1, you will need a performance starter. Also, the off shore starter frames are so poorly made, and will never work. I had one that I milled twenty thousand off the mounting surface and still could not get enough engagement. This was magnified by 10.2 to 1 compression. The solution was a Powermaster rated for 16 to 1 compression.

Trees
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Old 03-25-2010, 08:59 PM
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Powermaster Ultra Torque

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Old 03-25-2010, 09:13 PM
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I didn't have to good of luck with powermaster.. I blew the nose off of one.. And I just bought a bigger one, will be here tomorrow.. I will let you know just how good they are.. The one I blew the nose off was good For a 10.1 motor.. Well I guess it was boarder line on my 468.. The powermaster man say's this next one should do the trick... I will sure be putting it to the test tomorrow..
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:59 AM
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For a motor with a lot of compression, I'd be going to a 168 tooth flexplate anyway, and I would only use billet adapter starters, not ones with a cast nose. Back when I ran a small block Vega, I used to have starter problems all the time because the headers wrapped right around the starter, and it was a MAJOR PITA to replace or repair them. The best solution at the time was a cast iron nose Vette starter (with the front brace) and the 168 tooth flexplate. These days, with the big flexplate and a good billet nose starter, I have NO starting problems. Don't wanna sound like a broken record, but for the best chance of minimal problems in the future, you REALLY should swap flexplates.
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:13 AM
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samae old problem-chevy sb starter problems

thanks for the suggestions.
I have not yet tried the powermasster, although I have used an 'old'
solution for high comp. & hard to start engs.....that being, building a starter, using the buick armature,new brushes,bushings & etc........I have not yet solved the problem. thanks,
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:02 AM
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Another thought: I have never heard of anyone grinding on the teeth of the starter gear. This is hardened steel and you can grind right through the hardened surface, drastically reducing the life expectancy of the gear. You may want to consider throwing that gear away and getting another one.

Trees
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:33 AM
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chevy starter problem

trees:

maybe i did not make the grinding(beveling) statement clear. anyway, to clarify i did not grind the bendix gear, i did bevil the front side of the ring gear teeth. i have seen this done on some large tractors.
thanks,
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:49 PM
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Ok, now that makes sense.

Trees
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Old 12-04-2010, 07:45 PM
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starter woes

Words of a Professional Auto Electric Guy, most starter problems with the sbc
are due to too much intial advance, readjust it a couple degrees, get yourself a new high torquer with new bolts, and torque it down to spec.
It worked for me!
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:24 PM
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starter prob

Aren't most starters for the 168 tooth.
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:21 AM
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retake on my reply

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtie Believer
Words of a Professional Auto Electric Guy, most starter problems with the sbc
are due to too much initial advance, readjust it a couple degrees, get yourself a new high torquer with new bolts, and torque it down to spec.
It worked for me!
Although this guy was right on the money with many starter woes,
and I took his advice with some success for a while, but just pulled out my cheap off-shore beauty to find the nose cracked out and bolt bolts bent!
Don't waste your money on a cheap starter, BUY QUALITY, and enjoy your ride much longer!
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonshine24
I know this question has often been asked....i have looked at the archives but yet have not found the solution to my chevy sb starter problem. i can manually turn the engine over by hand with screwdriver against the (153) tooth good flywheel. the starters do not want to turn the engine over. I have a good hot battery & am jumping from the battery directly to the hot lug on the starter & grounding to the front of the starter. the curren starter & bendix are new.(the starter will eat up a broom handle-during a bench test)....I use a paper clip to check the clearance between the bendix & flywheel & thats more than adequate. I have shimmed the starter up to .083. I also tried shimming one side only on the starter bolts. I have added a front support strap to the block. I also replaced the knurled 10 mm starter bolts(straight across pattern) w/new knurled chevy starter bolts. all teeth are good on the flywheel. I have also tapered the inside of the teeth- where they mesh with the bendix using a die grinder. I am sure there are other things that I have tried that i do not recall at this time..... oh yes, the bendix is not fully withdrawing. I have shimmed the bendix spring to strengthen it.....I am open to suggestions.

thanks in advance,
What is the engine and how is it modified if any?

Which starter, Chevy uses about a billion different starters?

Why the 153 tooth ring gear?

How many teeth on the starter pinion, usually 9 or 11?

Being able to rotate the engine with a screw driver levered against the bell housing really isn't a test beyond knowing the engine will turn with a screw driver levered against the bell housing, but when it's loaded on the starter a lot of things come into play. It has to deal with rotating the engine to a speed against fuel induction, compression and ignition advance. This is a bit different than just getting the crank to move a little.

You should pull the plugs to make sure nobody is sitting on a cylinder full of fuel, oil, or coolant. See if the starter will spin the engine with the plugs out, that will eliminate hydraulic lock for one reason or another, excessive compression, or timing advance as cause of non or difficult rotation.


Broom handles aren't too difficult to tear up, I'm not sure if this test is telling anything beyond the need to buy a new broom. New starters are not immune to having problems, I wouldn't assume because it's new it's good enough for the job.

A basic question I have is what does the solenoid do when you hit the start position on the switch? Does it engage and stay that way or chatter? Does the motor start to spin then jam when the gear teeth engage? do the pinion teeth just bounce along the ring gear teeth without engaging?

Bogie
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