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Sand Bag
I want to make a sandbag to form sheet metal with, as a backer. What material is used for the bag? What type of sand is used? How big should it be?
thanks
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Ontario Rodders |
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Ponch
I made mine out of leather about an eighth inch thick and filled them withfine sand till they were about two inches thick. Make several of different sizes for different jobs.
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Quote:
CHECK IT ![]() Or check this: http://www.jdstreasurechest.com/panelbeaterbag.html Or this http://www.irvansmith.com/catalog2/p...nd_tools.shtml Good idea for a home welding project http://www.automotivesquare.com/sku11235.html And Ebay has a few http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=4625163148 Last edited by Kevin45; 03-28-2006 at 02:15 AM. |
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the thickest leather you can find. and as big as you can make a support stand for. play ground sand is fine.
have you looked over at www.metalmeet.com ? |
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Whoa!!! Hold the phone.
Sand will give off dust, much like sandblasting. Silicosis? Lead shot, much the same. Walnut shell has been used successfully. Find a media blaster who uses walnut shell, and get yourself some freebie media. Metalmeet.com is a great source of information. Sandbags can be as simple as a purse. There are numberous sources, including EBAY. Get a triple stitch sewn bag. And be generous with the media you put in. It will condense, or the bag will stretch. BTW- The support stand?? Use a car rim for the base, and a farm tractor disc for the bag support. Round off the sharp edge, or use a dull used disk. New, they are $16 at a farm supply. Jeff |
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I made mine round to fit the top of a bar stool...so far so good...that seems to work just fine..I suppose as time goes on I will make another one of a different size..
here ya go.. http://www.metalcrafttools.com/tools.html Look at that post dolly as well (bout halfway down the page) as that is an indesensable (sp) piece as well..that is used to take out the big dents before going on the wheel..Make your slappers out of an old leaf spring.. Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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And for the traditionalist.......A 34" high hardwood tree stump works awesome for tuck shrinking, plannishing, shaping, sand bag stand,workbench, etc. If it worked good enough for Enzo Ferrari's boys, I think us mere mortals could adapt!
Hit up metalmeet.com to see all the great metalshaping tools you can make. You would really be impressed with Wray Schelin's video on the shrinking wheel. He shows how to remove dents with a "slapper" and a dolly. A slapper you could make in an hour or so. You need a section of a leaf spring, about 4" long and a piece of pipe for a handle, for one style, and then there is anoter style that you would need about 14" long. This style is like the Harbor Freight product, yet is heavier. They are also selling a smaller version of that post dolly for about $15.00. Not a bad looking piece. IMPORTANT: When metal shaping, the finish on your tools will impart that finish on the item you are shaping. Be sure to sand and polish the faces of your tools. It is time well spent to "tune" your hammers, and dollys, to eliminate any unwanted sharp edges. Especially on hammers. You will want to radius the edge quite a bit, so you don't get "smiles" in the metal from a bad hammer strike. BTW- Instead of buying a mallet for $30+, Hit a garage sale and look for an old bat. Cut the handle off, and drill the main body. Insert the handle into the hole, round off the cut end, and you have a great hammer, with more weight for less effort, and it only will cost you a couple bucks and 1/2 hour. They work amazingly well, and my Fornier sits in the box. |
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More tips...
Buy a piece of leather larger than your bag, use it as a "disposable" cover. If it gets cut up and worn through, you can replace that piece of leather cheaper than your bag. Remember to debur your sheetmetal before shaping it. Your bag, and knuckles will appreciate it. Find a stand thats "the right height" to hold your bag. Everyone has different length legs/arms/torso, so you need to see whats good for you. No recipe, just trial and error to find the "right height". I prefer to have it low enough to hold the stock comfortably with my non striking hand without bending to the side. Someguys like to have their striking elbow at right angle to their upper arm, when the hammer makes contact, so they need to bend to hold the material. Potato, potatoe |
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Try your local shoe repair.
Boot leather will be about the thickest you can get. I doubt that will tear at all.
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