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Old 12-15-2009, 12:01 PM
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sand scratches on my 35

Just shot 4 coats of epoxy primer this AM . Thought I had it blocked pretty good, but I can still see some sanding scratches. What kind of top coat will fill best? I've decided on '39 mercury blue poly for my top color (sentimental reasons) and I dont think I want it real shiny. I'm trying to decide between b/c and single stage urethane or enamel. Worst spots I'll probably resand and prime over but it seems never ending. Plan to paint in warmer weather in spring and will have to scuff with 400-600. Thanks.

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Old 12-15-2009, 07:39 PM
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I don't know how severe the scratches are, and if they are minor enough that paint would fill or not. But if you figured it was pretty much ready, but if they are pretty minor, you could guide coat your epoxy and sand with your final sanding grit and see if it removes them, but since you will be shooting at least a sealer coat since you won't be painting till spring, then you could go a bit courser. Yeah, as you probably know, if you won't be shooting over the epoxy till spring, then it will need to all be scuffed, and another sealer coat of epoxy should be applied before priming or painting over.
If they don't sand out, then sand the bad spots with whats needed, and shoot a fill primer as needed.

I'd use a urethane, preferably bc/cc, although an enamel or a single stage might have a bit more filling ability then basecoat. . I really wouldn't want to use enamel, one it having less longevity and durability, and two, Beginners and even most pros want to do some wetsanding and buffing afterwards, as there are usually at least a few imperfections you'd like to remove. There are some pretty affordable lines of urethane now, so I don't think I'd want to go enamel over urethane to save a few bucks. Even using hardener, which is optional in enamel (which should always be add though), it will stay soft for quite awhile.

A urethane will be easier to buff and a clearcoat a necessity if a metllic or pearl. Even some solid colors in ss enamel can be iffy to colorsand and buff, and heard blue is one color that can be prone to leaving rings.
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Old 12-16-2009, 05:33 AM
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No, I didnt realize that Id have to shoot another coat of epoxy in the spring - thought all Id need to do would be scuff what was on there..........arrhh. Well, glad you enlightened me on that. Not planning any pearl or metallic, kind of leaning toward ss urethane right now. Thankyou very much for the advice, you knowledgeable guys probably get sick of answering all the amateurs dumb questions but I really appreciate the help.
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:31 PM
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Yeah, most epoxys I've seen, recommend scuffing and reshooting another coat, before applying primer or topcoating over, if its been past so many days, something like 3 days to a week depending on brand. Epoxy is slow to cure, but once it does set up, it will set up tough, and a good one won't be very penetratable by solvents. You really want some chemical adhesion with primer or paint you shoot over it. So if waiting until spring, I would plan on scuffing it all and shooting another coat of epoxy.
Heres from omni mp170 epoxy tech sheet, many others like spi give the same sort of recommendation if epoxy has sat a number of days.
Quote:
Mp series epoxy primers must be scuffed and reapplied if allowed to sit more then 3 days (72 hours)
Now urethane I believe may be different, if it stays out of the elements inside and kept clean. I think you could probably be okay when the time came to just wipe it down, sand and shoot. You could apply a urethane filler primer over the epoxy, without sanding it if its still in its window (usually give open window in the product data sheets for the product your using, you do have yours and have read them haven't you?), if you have a lot of scratches that were missed and have a bit more work to do.

I don't know exactly what you did or where your at, If you already have used urethane primer on there which is blocked and you sealed up with epoxy, have been using only epoxy as a primer, or the epoxy was applied over the urethane to seal everything up before paint. At any rate, really shouldn't be too big a deal to scuff the epoxy up and shoot a sealer coat when the time comes.
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:28 PM
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I did things a little backward - (I posted on 11/11 about it). I used laquer high build primer over the body filler and block sanded then used epoxy primer over everything. Thats where Im at now. Overall I was pretty pleased with my result - panels look real straight, but more scratches than I anticipated. Thank you once again.
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:54 PM
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Thats pretty much what you get with lacquer primer. Not a lot of fill and shrinkage. If you left fairly course scratches in your bodywork and didn't allow to sit a minimum of a week to let it shrink before you did your blocking, likely what happened is the lacquer primer shrunk down and then the scratches show up. lacquer isn't the best to use over any baremetal spots either. Not only because of the very limited corrosion protection it provides (least epoxy has been applied over), but also does not have the greatest adhesion. It was used over metal many years ago, because thats all they had, but no longer recommend as a direct to metal primer. Etch was often used in the lacquer days to help it stick to metal and at least provide some corrosion protection, but like lacquer products, Is outdated with todays better epoxys and 2k products.
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Old 12-17-2009, 06:59 AM
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thanks - I'm learning.
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