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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2006, 11:14 PM
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^^^ i sure hope you didnt pay them for that ... thats insane

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2006, 06:49 AM
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with type 5 acrylic i use about 35-40 lbs of pressure on my 1 1/4 hose with a 3/8 nozzle. i have about a 6 in pattern. i did a 56 big window cab yeasterday in about 4 hrs. removed the paint and switched to starblast and cleaned all rust and the bottom. no damage . the industry has developed many new products to eliminate the damage risk. using sand is simply too risky. find a shop that uses the latest in equipment and materials. if theres a pile of sand out back take your car and leave. it's not worth the risk.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2006, 10:19 PM
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removing the rust and paint

The lat poster was absolutely correct.
We used a urea plastic bead for all filler and paint removal on all surfaces...........including some wodden architectural pieces! We used 60 grit "aluminum oxide for rust removal and to prep industrial weldments and castings for finishes. We never warped a panel on a vehicle, though there was a rolls that came through that had two types of aluminum panels and one did get pitted quite severely, even at lox pressure and with the plastic.
As far as the rust removal, the aluminum oxide has been their choice of material because the particles keep a "sharp edge longer, and that means the work goes faster, and as it is swept up, sucked through a screening system and reused ..........it's more economical.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2006, 07:36 AM
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Ok listen up , it is not the heat that causes the warpage in sand balsting.!
SO why all the problems? if you actually use sand , there is a certain amount of ABRAISION that happens.. and that my PALS will cause just the slightest amount of metal to be removed on that side of the panel.
NOW if you remove metal than haven't you just made the surface area just a little bit BIGGER?
MMM less see here , how do i illustrate this ?
OK pay attention say you have some landsacpe.
now you have a hill that is 500 feet tall. the hill being a rusty bump in the sheet metal..
NOw you take a bulldoser and take off 10 feet of top soil.
the hill in now 490 feet tall. but look again it is also not so steep. you have increased the surface area. and it slopes less gradually . now the other side of the panel is still the same size , right? So you are going to get a warp. because you have ABRADED off some of the surface and made more surface area.... that is why most olks now adays will use a media blast .. it will cut the rust and paint , but not ABRADE any metal. thus increasing the surface area.
OF course this will not affect many of the parts on a car , but sure it will in thin sheet metal. and it has nothing to do with heat.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2006, 07:57 AM
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Fat, do you scan a magazine like me, back to the front? Go to the very first post in this thread I think the "heat myth" has been covered.

Brian
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2006, 10:20 AM
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Fat, You say if you remove ten feet of that hill you will have INCREASED surface area? You may have increased the LEVEL area but there would be a decrease in SURFACE area. But this is beside the point, removing metal is not the problem, peening and stretching(or compression maybe?) is. I think you need to take a closer look at what you are saying.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2006, 04:56 PM
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well maybe ny illustration wasn't the best , but what happens when you remove some metal on one side of the panel.the surface tension of the other side will react.
I'm not sure if i can illustrate it but that's what makes the stuff warp. since i learned it i have had a few more concusions and a heart attack that left me wit some brain damage so maybe i should not have commented.HA HA
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2006, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
with type 5 acrylic i use about 35-40 lbs of pressure on my 1 1/4 hose with a 3/8 nozzle. i have about a 6 in pattern. i did a 56 big window cab yeasterday in about 4 hrs. removed the paint and switched to starblast and cleaned all rust and the bottom. no damage . the industry has developed many new products to eliminate the damage risk. using sand is simply too risky. find a shop that uses the latest in equipment and materials. if theres a pile of sand out back take your car and leave. it's not worth the risk.
shine,

at what pressure do you use the starblast? do you use a gravity feed? or a pot blaster? how about using a syphon gun? will it work?

thanks, JD
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2006, 07:17 PM
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i have a large system. i have a 1 1/4 in hose with a #5 nozzle[3/8]. i use around 40 lbs of pressure. starblast is probably one of the best for small pots. it is a very fine grain and will work well with a gravity or small pressure pot.it does recycle about 3 to 5 times depending on pressure. it does get dusty after a few though. my exhaust pulls the dust from the booth but outdoors it would work great. shoot at a 45 degree angle for best results. it leaves a fine anchor pattern unlike sand pits. does not warp sheet metal. sands for cats to poop in not blasting
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2006, 07:20 PM
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thanks shine. i gotta do the passenger side door jambs on my car. just want to clean them up and have them ready for a fresh coat of primer. think i can use the starblast from a bucket gun? i was willing to sacrifice the bag to get the door jambs done.

thanks, JD
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2006, 07:41 PM
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sure. here it's only 10 bucks a 50lb bag but it's dense so a bag is about half the size of a bag of sand. it also works good in a spot blaster.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2006, 07:41 PM
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fat freddy

well doin the jams shouln't be a problem for sand because they are so rigid. this discussion was about panels being warped by sand , but door jams really have no where to warp to due to the small area and the rigidity of that whole area. so have at it and just do it with your eyes closed , that sand getz to stingin' them watery ol'eyeballs.
FAT ........
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Old 02-02-2006, 08:29 PM
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I would stay with the starblast, just avoiding the silica is worth the small extra cost.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2006, 08:46 PM
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This whole post is full of good info but the one area I didn't see is that sandblasting anneals the sheet metal and makes it hard to work if you need to do some hammer and dolly work. So if you got a warped panel you'll need to soften it up to work it.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2006, 04:49 AM
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the composite industry has been trying to tell folks about sand for 30 years. why some one would risk destroying a car for 50 bucks saving is beyond me. you ask them and they'll give you a 3 page list of reasons not to use sand. let's get real , who knows more about it? us or the people who make and sale abrasives.i do it for a living and did my research before investing in all the equipment. if 10 bucks a bag is too much your in the wrong hobby
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