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Old 12-03-2012, 04:05 PM
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sandblasting

I have the need to occasiaonally blast a frame or exterior panels on cars. I have a 60 gal husky compressor and a harbor freight 60 lb blaster. As with most tools from hf they can be made better. I changed guns and that alone made a big difference. I would like to know how guys are improving these units and how best to set the up, air pressure and such. Right now it kinda feels like cleaning a tile floor with a toothbrush

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Old 12-03-2012, 04:08 PM
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sandblasting

I have the need to occasiaonally blast a frame or exterior panels on cars. I have a 60 gal husky compressor and a harbor freight 60 lb blaster. As with most tools from hf they can be made better. I changed guns and that alone made a big difference. I would like to know how guys are improving these units and how best to set the up and make it more efficient, air pressure and such. Right now it kinda feels like cleaning a tile floor with a toothbrush
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:27 PM
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HF Sandblaster..

I have been TOLD,,,,,CAUTION,,,,,i have NOT tried it,but i was told to cut a 1/4 inch hole in the hose where it comes out of the valve on bottom,it makes no sense to me,but the guy that told me was insistant that it worked great.AGAIN,I HAVE NOT TRIED IT...
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:32 PM
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what would be the next level of blasting unit that wouldnt break the bank?
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:48 AM
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It all starts with the air compressor...If the comp cant supply around 100 lbs of pressure all day getting a better or bigger blaster wont help...The biggest problem is keeping the media dry and filtering all the moisture out of the air supply...get these two issues fixed and those little blasters work pretty well,,,
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:55 AM
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I am lucky enough to have a refrigerated air dry system. The compressor is one of the 60 gallon home depot jobs. Marginal, but it was all I could afford. I plan on upgrading it in the next year or two. Is 100 lbs at the nozzle a pretty good setting? Anybody got any recomends on air compressors?
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:05 AM
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Not at the nozzle but in the comp tank...The problem is it might start out at 100 but quickly drops as you use the blaster...I find that a 100 lb supply at all times works great...Your unit is a pressurized one, right???
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:30 AM
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I've been reading your post and deadman is right about the size of the compressor,I'm speaking from experance.When I started my project I had a 60 gal 3.5hp 10cfm Ingersoll Rand and a harbor freight blaster.When I would blast something it took forevery so one day when I had alot of blasting to do I rented one of the industrial pull around compressors and what a differance it made.It takes high CFM compressor to run a sand blaster.I now have a Quincy 80 gal 2 stage Compressor I beleive its around 18 CFM which is still not enough but it's ok.To run the blaster you really need something around 24 cfms but then you need to make sure your electrical wiring is large enough.After I purchased the compressor I borrowed a larger blaster it was a texas blaster which is great but you still need CFMS.
Hope this helps
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:22 AM
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I can not stress enough, do NOT sandblast body panels, yes some people do it, but it needs some SERIOUS experience without destroying panels. We are talking DE-STROYING panels. Check out this thread at post #9 Shringer disc.

Brian
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:40 AM
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More info

I have a home made blaster cabinet, large enough to put in a rear end housing.i I use an old sears gun, 5 hp 50 gal comprsssor. . It is kept out side the shop under a lean-to roof, I have a 2 in pipe along the top-back of the cabinet with 1/2 holes about 4 in apart with the end outside the cabinet that I hook an old shop vac to for dust control. The small hole in the hose or pick up tube is to mix air with the sand in the blaster tube. If the hose was full just sand it whould take a lot of air pressure to creaate enough vacuum at the gun to move the sand, A suggestion I read here on HR a while back is to have your sand supply up above your gun height so it doesn.t have to lift all that weight. So far mine has been working ok. Mine just keeps reusing the sand that drops to the bottom of the cabinet. I always use the 3500 psi pressurre washer on parts first to keep dirt and grease out of the sand. I also have a wet blaster from Northern Tools that I hook up to the pressure washer, I only did a test with 5 gallon bucket of sand on some parts, it cleans good, NO DUST and it makes a mess, wet sand everywhere, When I get ready to sand blast a frame It will be out in the back pasture, gasoline powered pressure washer blaster and a 100 ft of garden hose , painters head sock, rubber boots rain suit and full face mask. My son has a table top cabinet with walnut hulls to use on the antique brass parts for restoration pieces
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:45 AM
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body panels

Even though I have my own blasters I paid to have the quarter panels on the nash roadster and cowl blasted by a shop that several people that do restorations recommended. He knew what he was doing, did not warp anything, but it did not get out some of the rust on deeper pits,
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:44 AM
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One of the things that helps is to use a proper blast media..I use vitro grit which is crushed glass..that stuff cuts much better than any sand I have found and I can now blast at 40/50 psi which helps my compressor.// Another rule I follow is to sand where I can and blast where I must which has saved me a lot of grief ...

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Old 12-06-2012, 08:14 AM
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Yes, pressurized
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:58 PM
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getting the right pressure in the tank is a little tricky then getting the proper flow of sand out of the bottom is even trickier,you'll have to play with it a while to get them dialed in just right...I have one of those (small propane tank type) pressure blasters and its been working pretty darn well for the past 5 yrs ...
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:08 PM
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ive got a spare 60 gallon tank from an old compressor. I was giving thought to converting it to a larger version of the propane style blaster. I do get tire of running out of material
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