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Old 04-21-2004, 09:33 AM
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Sandblasting Equipment

Anyone have good luck with a sandblaster rental?

I own a makeshift pressurized sandblaster actually that works great but my air compressor has a hard time keeping up. I am in the market for a new compressor but I can only spend about $400-$500 at the current time. I am worried that even a compressor in this price range will not keep my pressurized blaster running enough to constantly blast my car. So I am considering one of those rental sandblaster units that comes with a gas powered compressor.

Anyone have good luck with these? How did they work, too strong, too weak, etc? Were they affordable (how much did they run you to rent)? Lets just say that if I rented one, do you think that I could blast a full car in one weekend?

Thanks,
kev

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Old 04-21-2004, 02:35 PM
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compressor

if you are only doing one car I don't think i would spend the money. unless you are gonna paint it also but then you will need to save more money to get a bigger comp that will be able to keep up with you painting. if its your own car just take your time and let the compressor keep up unless you are using a 10 galoon compressor I would stick with what you have.
Jesse
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:49 AM
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I'm doing some painting work as well. My compressor has to go no matter what, it just doesn't keep up with the tooling I have (grinders/sanders/hvlp gun/etc). But I don't want to break the bank and buy a $1000+ compressor. I can afford a $400-$500 compressor that I feel will run all of my tools adequately with exception to the sandblaster.

You might be right though, the bigger compressor may be enough to keep the blaster running better than my current compressor. Currently it isn't even worth hooking the blaster up because I get about 3-5 minutes max of blasting and then I need to let it repressurize. My current compressor is a 27 gallown tank with only a 5.7 cfm at 90psi pump. With a 60 gallon tank and a 13cfm at 90psi pump, I may be able to keep the blaster running for 15minutes without stop. I could cover a lot more area in that timeframe.

Well this is the only car I have to do for now but I wouldn't say it will be the last car I will restore. I am still hoping to restore a 67-68 mustang one day, but that won't happen for a few more years.

kev
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Old 04-22-2004, 07:59 AM
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master blaster

i have blasted cars my self & for others for place i worked, but without the right equipment at my small shop i use aircraft stripper. the same method u may have seen on cut chop rebuild, or Covington's Hot Rod Shop t.v. shows. doing this u can work an area to fit ur daily time schedule, don't have to worry about warping open panel areas. i rough up paint with 16-40 grit on sander or da to cut some openings in sealed paint to allow chemical stripper to get a bite. i apply & cover with plastic to hold it in to work to max while working another area. i come back after 1 -2 applications & find i only have to dust a few spots with sandblaster- mostly panel edges & jamb areas. just one way of doing it. good luck jw www.art4urhog.com
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:15 AM
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jwart,

Thanks for the info. I think I will use the aircraft stripper on all the smooth body panels. Plus the procedure you mention with the plastic sounds like a good one. I guess it keeps the chemicals from vaporizing in atmosphere and gets it to do a better job in removing paint? How do you think this would work on the undercarraige though?

What I am blasting is the undercarrage and engine compartment. Plus my vehicle has a factory undercoating on it that is very thick. It is taking a lot of wire brushing with an angle grinder first and then sandblasting to get it back down to bare metal. Once it is all done to bare, I probably will have to redo the wire brushing just to verify all the sand is out of the metal. Then the undercarraige is getting por-15ed.

All in all, I have been working on stripping this car for over a year. I started with a siphon feed sandblaster and a cheep angle grinder. Now I am up to a pressurized blaster and a very expensive anglegrinder and it is still going very slow, lol. But I have to admit that I am not working on it every night of the week and there are times were I don't touch the car for about a month. Plus I have been doing some patching work on the areas I uncover rust.



So what I am hearing so far is that I probably shouldn't waste my money on renting a sandblaster setup? I should just keep it going a little at a time? It gets very frustrating though to say the least. Plus I don't have a rotissorie which makes this even more of a pia.

kev
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Old 04-22-2004, 11:27 AM
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underside

unless u are doing a show car i'd go ahead with blasting bottom & paint or por it. i personally am not impressed with por 15, it was the best product out years ago but i like the new rust encapsulating paints available now. 3-5 yrs later they hold up better. undercoating is doing its job if it ain't coming off. why remove it, it deadens sound & seals the metal from rust-just patch up any spots it peels & paint the whole bottom on top of undercoating. i even offer this service to customers thru my custom bike paint shop just for fenders. u can pressurewash it all u want. a little newspaper some masking tape & anyone can touch it up if ever needed. remember no substitute for elbow grease, more u put into ur project the more she'll shine for u. good luck jw
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Old 04-22-2004, 11:50 AM
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Well it is too late to keep the undercoating now. I started with just ridding the rusted areas of the coating to repair and ended up starting to strip the full undercarraige. Little did I know how hard it would be.

This car will be considered a show car to me but it will get its fair share of driving as well. It won't be a standard commuter car and/or be driving in the rain/snow but it will be driven.

I used por-15 a bit on another one of my cars and I am not too impressed either. Paint does not want to stick to it one bit and I find it very easy to score through with a sander when I am smoothing everything out after primer. I was told that por-15's tie coat primer will solve the paint chipping problem but I haven't used it yet.

What kind of rust encapsulating paints are you talking about? Eastwood's rust encapsulator? I am definitely open to suggestings. I already bought a quart of por-15 and was planning on using it on the hidden areas like the back of my new quarter panels, etc. I will consider another product for the chassis. I just want something that won't rust away and is somewhat chip resistant. The undercarraige will be topcoated with regular BC/CC urethane paint (same as the body color)

kev

What about this product, zerorust:

http://www.zerorust.com/index.htm

This product doesn't seem to be as bad in UV light as por-15. Also there isn't anything too specific on topcoating. Will the topcoat peel like por-15 does? Does it need a special primer like por-15?

Last edited by starquest; 04-22-2004 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 04-22-2004, 05:03 PM
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READ THE FINE PRINT!

"Zero Rust has exceeded 2000 hours at 3.5 mils d.f.t. in the ASTM-Bll7 salt spray tests. This was previously unheard of in an air-dried coating. "

The above was taken from their website!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First 2000 hours in a salt spray test (what % solution?) out of a spray can! And a single component product at that and an Alkalied base product. We stop using this type of paint in the 60's.
Did you know the highest 2 part epoxy will get 1440 hours in a salt spray test and I only know of two over a 1000 out there.

But are they lying ? Hell no! Look at the mills they tested at 3.5!!!! Holycow two coats of epoxy depending on gun used and product will give you .7 to 1 mil average! A new GM paint job is going to come in at 3.5-4.5 mills! To get 3.5 mils out of a spray can
what would you think? 1 can per sq ft?? I would not want to guess.
Spray 3.5 mils of anything and of course it will do well in a salt spray test even house paint!

Figures don't lie but liars figure!

Last edited by BarryK; 04-22-2004 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 04-23-2004, 09:08 AM
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You brought up a good point. I am not one to believe things that the manufactures brag about with their products. I go from hearing personal experiences from people who actually used the products.

I have been thinking about this all night. I might just be better off with just painting the undercarraige just like the viewable body surfaces. I will only use the por-15 around the areas were I'm not positive that I got rid of all the rust (rocker panel pinch joints, etc).

Thanks,
kev
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Old 04-23-2004, 12:40 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by starquest
[B]You brought up a good point. I am not one to believe things that the manufactures brag about with their products.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

The sad part is anyone reading this BS would not have a clue what a "salt spray Cross hatch test is" and they would look right past the 3.5 mils. But this chemistry sounds impressive!!!!
On top of that it does not say anything about "cross hatch" Now thats the most important part of the salt spray test because if you don't, ANYTHING will show impressive results. The salt spray test is a test against rust creeping from a scratch from bare metal
not how long it takes to break paint.
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