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Old 06-12-2010, 10:18 PM
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Sanded through clear

So, in wet sanding my fresh coat of clear, I got a little something under the paper and made a deep-ish scratch. Trying to work that out with some more sanding, I managed to get down into the color (metallic silver). Which is a damn shame b/c the rest of the deck lid is looking good. But, oh well, life goes on. The question is...can I just clear over it again--after scuffing the existing clear, of course--or do I need to re-shoot the color again? Something tells me that I'll still be able to see that area and that new clear is just going to preserve the difference between the dull color and the glossy clear.

Thanks!

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Old 06-13-2010, 03:40 AM
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Dust some color over the damaged area and re clear.
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Old 06-13-2010, 08:53 AM
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as opposed to just reshooting a whole coat of color on the deck lid?
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:31 AM
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Not necessary.
Just prep the whole decklid with 800, dust the damaged area and blend around it, let it flash and re-clear.
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:09 AM
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thanks. if you can't tell, i'm a bit of a noob. blending is beyond my current skill set. or at least i think it is! does that change your recommendation?
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:27 AM
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It is not above your skill set. It is great you are learning to do it yourself. When you go to the first show or cruise it is great to say , I did it. Dusting is just shooting a coat over the spot to be fixed. Make sure you pull the gun away so that it blends. You can do it
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:12 AM
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thanks! actually, i was more worried about blending clear to clear. but maybe i misunderstood what was being said. so what you're saying is to dust the flaw with color but then clear the whole panel?
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:08 PM
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that is correct. I would do what DA34guy said about the 800 grit. After blending the flawed area wait for flash time and then clear-coat the whole lid. Flash time is important, even more in your case since you are working over fresh paint. The clear could lift, just something you do not know until you do it.
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Old 06-15-2010, 03:21 PM
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I assume by "lift" you mean the clear could wrinkle up at the edge of where it meets the color underneath. If so, this is what keeps happening. I let it dry enough to wet sand, and then come back and it happens again at the new edge. What do I do? Can I clear it, scuff that, and then color over that? Or will new clear have the same effect that the color is having? I assume it's about wet solvents getting under there.
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Old 06-15-2010, 03:26 PM
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Oooh, I think I know what's up. You guys said to "dust" it, but I didn't understand that was because a wetter coat would cause lifting. That's what's happening. Another thread says to dust first and let it flash for an extra long time, and then lay another down. Will do this and see what happens...
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:08 PM
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It is not easy to paint over something that is not cured. Body shops do not run into this problem very much because the repair they are doing is over paint that has cured for months if not years. I have done it many times without problems with cars that have old paint. But there has been times that fixing a new paint job that has drove me crazy. Sometime humidity plays a part. Sometime if you do not wait long enough after wet sanding there is still water trapped under the edge of the old clear that you are trying to cover. What you could try is this> Do not wet sand but scuff the area with a very fine scuff pad. Dust the base coat very thin one coat then let it sit for a hour. Then a second coat if after 15 min. the second coat does not lift you should be OK. If you need more base to cover apply after flash, ( if using Med. reducer about 15-20 min. ) Then after 20 to 30 Min. clear coat. I hope this works for you. It is very hard to trouble shoot a painting problem without knowing what you are using and how the paint is reacting. let me know what happens.
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Old 06-16-2010, 04:29 PM
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thanks for all your suggestions. so, i thought i had it fixed today. my solution was to not sand all the wrinkles away from where it lifted, but rather just sand it until it was smooth. then, after a few light coats, i had the color looking perfect. the final coat of base flashed for 20-30 minutes, after which i went on nice and wet with clear. bam! it happened again with all that solvent from the clear.

next step...i don't know. i don't want to lay a light coat of clear b/c i don't want to start out rough. maybe if i get it back to the point of where i can clear again, i'll let the base cure for a couple of days before i shoot clear. it's pretty humid right now here, so that may be a factor.
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Old 06-16-2010, 05:00 PM
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I fill bad that you are having such a hard time with it. I do painting for myself and friends, if they get stuck on something. I started doing body work and painting forty years ago and I still do not know everything. But the good thing is I am not afraid to ask for help. Two of my friends have body shops and both are very good. I will call them tonight and ask what the problem could be. What paint are you using? We will fix it yet!!
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:58 PM
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Try putting about 10%-25% of you clear hardener in your color and let it flash off good between coats. I've had this help when I've had paint doing what you've got.Then when dried a hour or so put on your clear. Not guaranteed but may help you.
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:07 AM
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Thanks guys for all the suggestions and interest. I am using cheapo paint on this one...it's a flipper car. SW Dimension color, Acme clear. Maybe that's the problem.
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