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Old 01-26-2007, 11:34 AM
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Sanded Through Clear into Base

I was cutting the clear when I broke through into the base. It actually happened in a number of spots. It's all on the underside of the hood, so not really obvious. Those humps and ridges are hard to see. To get this right, can I rebase over the clear and essentially start over, or just do clear touch up and then reclear the whole thing? Thanks in advance.

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Old 01-26-2007, 12:37 PM
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If you have the whole panel sanded smooth you can rebase just
the areas you broke through then reclear the entire panel.
That's the best way, if it's just one little spot you can base and blend
the clear for just that spot but reclearing the entire panel is
always preferred, and easier
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Old 01-26-2007, 02:22 PM
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Yes, scuff it up with a grey scotchbrite, blend the color in your bad areas and clear it again. The only problem you may have is if the basecoat wrinkles up the thin edge of the clear where you sanded through-to eliminate the chance of this happening apply your basecoat in thin coats with good flash times and good panel and air temperatures. You want the base to flash off solvents fast enough so they do not set and wrinkle the clear. Some clears are more suseptable than others and some reducers are stronger/more aggressive than others.
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Old 01-26-2007, 03:04 PM
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Bob has offered some excellent tips on eliminating the lift around the edges. Only thing I can add is sand the clear well beyond where your base is going to stop. When you spray the base try and avoid laying it on heavy that is what causes the lifting around the edges. It would be great if you had a touch up gun or an airbrush. As you near the edge of the area you are re-basing start to lighten up on the base, you want a very light coat at the perimeter.

Vince
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Old 01-26-2007, 08:00 PM
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You do understand that whatevery you spray clear on HAS to be scuffed.
Meaning the whole hood "if" that is what your reclearing.Blending spots is just beyond the repair area.
Another tip is to catylize your base paint with a little of the clear coat catylist. This helps the base to lock up better and helps with the "edge" issue Bob spoke of. Keep the base coats light and fade out of the repair area. Actually, a dual action air brush is a great tool for the base work if you have one.
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Old 01-27-2007, 10:00 AM
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Got it! Thanks to all.
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Old 01-27-2007, 12:26 PM
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Just a side note, if the base reducer you have is slow, you might want to get hold of some medium for the spot work, since the slow can stay wet long enough to wrinkle the edges of the clear.
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