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Old 03-05-2011, 10:32 AM
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Sanderson headers, w/o gaskets?

I have a set of Sanderson FF5 block-hugger headers for SBF. The installation guide states definitely NOT to use header-to-head gaskets, just a bead of Ultra-Black silicone. The guy who's building the system for me reckons this will not work and that they'll leak - anybody got any experience of these?
I've generally used copper header gaskets with JBAs etc., but never had Sanderson before. Any tips very gratefully received.

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Old 03-05-2011, 11:29 AM
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I have Sandersons and I have gaskets based on previous usage of their products. I use an Earls premium version with my FF1 headers - and are seen here on the Summit web site. You possibly can't get these gaskets locally in the UK, but Fel-Pro will work as well.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...Header+gaskets



There are some that say the silicone works and have had good luck - I haven't!!!

Dave W
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsk289
I have a set of Sanderson FF5 block-hugger headers for SBF. The installation guide states definitely NOT to use header-to-head gaskets, just a bead of Ultra-Black silicone. The guy who's building the system for me reckons this will not work and that they'll leak - anybody got any experience of these?
I've generally used copper header gaskets with JBAs etc., but never had Sanderson before. Any tips very gratefully received.
I run Sanderson shorties Ultra black will not work for long, it just isn't something that stands up to the heat.

Sanderson's run a fairly thin flange so while they conform nicely they do move around so Ultra Black gives some flex to hold them leak tight for a while.

I've found the best solution is solid copper or aluminum gaskets, or Remflex graphite. These graphite gaskets are quite thick but they compress a lot as you torque them, they do a very good job of sealing the Sanderson's. Conventional gaskets of high temp paper*, or woven metal and high temp paper have proved to be unsuitable mostly from the stand point that headers bolts, unless using a clamp style locking mechanism, always come loose and the hot exhaust burns through these type gaskets then you're into gasket replacement rather than just tightening the bolts.

* This is not paper in the sense of the stuff you write on, but are made from the felting of high temperature resistant fibers with or with-out a wire mesh reinforcement,

I don't use one type of bolt head on headers, I select between the small head 12 point purpose made header bolts, Allen head bolts, conventional hex heads, or studs based on each fastener's accessibility. This makes working on the headers a lot easier but probably isn't pretty enough for guys that need to care about how it looks. I use stainless exclusively on all exhaust fastenings. If you have a problem with loosening fasteners, put a flex coupling in the collector pipe to divorce engine motion from body motion in the pipes, you'll find 99.9 percent of the fastener problems will go away.

Bogie
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:14 PM
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Thanks for the advice - I've always used SC copper gaskets and Stage 8 stainless locking fasteners before with no problems. My question was really because Sanderson make a big thing of telling you NOT to use gaskets.
I guess they mean the stock fibre type.
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsk289
make a big thing of telling you NOT to use gaskets.
I guess they mean the stock fibre type.
Nope - they mean NO GASKETS. I had that conversation with the owner and she thoroughly PO'd me in her insistence that the extra inner ridge and silicone works.

Flange thickness - 3/8" which is about as thick as you could ever want - see my photo above.

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Old 03-05-2011, 06:23 PM
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The only time I've seen no gasket actually work, was OEM SBC cast iron exhaust manifolds installed at the factory.
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:29 PM
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OK, it's looking like I'm headed back to my favourite copperware.
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:21 PM
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Yes, thats a 7 year old picture during mockup, car has been finished for 3years now, I will recall this post should my sillycone blow out later down the road. I followed the manufactures recommendations, guess im weird that way. So far no leaks.[ nice flanges ]
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Old 03-05-2011, 08:27 PM
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I guess I'm weird also, I used the recommended silicone on my Sandersons. Even though I didn't get the car on the street before I sold the 331" sbc and 700R4 I had a lot of garage run in time. SIXGUNS, that is a very healthy looking Cad, I'm replacing the sbc in my '32 Victoria with a 508" Cad and T400. Same valve covers and MSD cap on a Dave's Small Cap HEI unit. Will probably use those same headers but will have to install blisters on the Rootlieb hood for clearance....the things you have to do to be a little different.
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:32 AM
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The Ultra Copper should work better than Black, higher temp rating. It's the only one suggested for exhaust.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ket_makers.htm
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:16 PM
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I've got Sanderson's in my V8 Vega, & installed them just like the instructions said.
They have been on the car 4 or 5 years, & no leaks.
This has been the only set of headers I've ever had on any car that didn't leak.

Jon
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:36 PM
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Sanderson's have a thin flange? That is news to me, mine are easily 3/8" thick. That is thicker than most headers. I used dead soft solid copper on mine with no problems going on 4 years now.

Vince
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Sanderson's have a thin flange? That is news to me, mine are easily 3/8" thick. That is thicker than most headers. I used dead soft solid copper on mine with no problems going on 4 years now.

Vince
Vince - that's why I posted a picture of the 3/8" flanges on mine -

Their paper catalog and website both "brag on" that thickness

Dave W
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