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Old 10-03-2008, 04:33 PM
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sanding basecoat?

My basecoat didn't flow out as well as I hoped. I've got good coverage but the bc has a little orange peel. Should I sand it out with 1500 or let the cc take care of it? I shot two wet coats of bc and the color is black. I need to know as soon as possible.

thanks for any help..

Ron

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Old 10-03-2008, 04:45 PM
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You really can't "sand" base,so clear it and go on.
It will be fine. I've shot some really bad textured base but the clear will save ya.
Main reasion I use SS for solid colors. Those you can color sand and recoat or clear after sanding.
Ya,fast answer and just the "facts".
Have I sanded Black base and it "worked",ya,but it's a waste of time basically.
The clear will pull ya out,trust me.
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:53 PM
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You can sand base but like said above it really isn't necessary. If you say have a moth do a kamakazi death plunge into your freshly sprayed base (been there and I was horrified )then sand out with 2000 and spot in the base but for any thing else don't bother.
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:53 PM
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Sanding basecoat

I have sanded out base coat using 600 grit wet sand paper, then followed up with a couple more coats of base. Check your air pressure to the gun, too low of pressure will not atomize your paint properly. Spray basecoat fairly wet, it will flash quite quickly and not sag unless it is loaded up too much. Keep your gun moving always or release trigger at end of each pass.
Good luck,
lowbux
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Old 10-03-2008, 06:50 PM
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sanding basecoat?

thanks guys

I was using a new gun and I should have practiced with it first.


Where else can you get expert advice like this free! This is a great Group.

Ron
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Old 10-04-2008, 06:46 AM
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If it's DuPont Chomabase or Chroma Premiere don't sand it! Many other bases can be sanded and recoated but the two DuPonts I just mentioned will be suseptable to delamination problems if sanded, I've done the tests and confirmed.
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Old 10-04-2008, 09:50 AM
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And Sherwin Williams and many others, READ THE TECH SHEETS!
Now, let's define "sanding" as opposed to "scuffing" or "nibbing".

"Sanding" is sanding very well leaving no texture or very little texture.

"Scuffing" or "Nibbing" is lightly rubbing the paper over the surface to knock off the tops of the texture, and or lint or other objects that may be sticking up out of the surface.

Scuffing or Nibbing is ok, and if you look at the tech sheets it is a "recommended" procedure.

Do some test panels and I think you will find that a base with a fair amount of texture will be just fine once buried under clear. The clear is what you want to cut and buff to perfection, the base is something that really shouldn't be touched.

Brian
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:43 AM
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http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php...t=0&mforum=spi

See last sentence of what not to do, in first post, then you will not have to worry about sanding.
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:31 AM
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A lot of real good points, 99% being not a whole lot could even be discussed, black and white, done deal.

But a few are "opinions", like that last one. More cars are painted with such a base than are painted without. They are painted successfully on millions of cars and the shops who use them would say that is an opinion.

FOLLOW THE TECH SHEETS is what I say!

However, if one is a beginner with a steep learning curve, using a base without a "basemaker" may be a good choice I quess.

All I know is this borders on advertising being the poster sells a product that fits that bill.

Brian
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:52 AM
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It is always going to depend on how high the bar is set for the end result..

If the idea is a perfectly clean satin base coat to be cleared once it meets the standard set by the demand then any base coat system that can't be worked , perfected and re-coated after sanding wouldn't make sense or be desirable especially if the bar is way up there in this reporters opinion.

The whole reason to opt for bc/cc is it's workability in the best and worst of conditions as well as considering the new and first time painters.. So yes you can sand it and if it fails post it up so we can pass along what doesn't work and set the bar higher for everyone in the hobby



Last edited by milo; 10-07-2008 at 06:51 AM. Reason: we need a grammer checker lol
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:23 AM
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Just my two bits is that in the real world some trash runs and orange peel will come along to afflict us so picking a BC/CC system that allows for repairs as necessary would be one of my criteria in selecting a paint system to use..That way if something goes haywire one can fix it fairly easily as one goes along and still get a good job..

One of the reasons the ole guys liked the lacquer systems is that they can be sanded and repaired easily if needed..

Sam
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:34 AM
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ok not to confuse the issure. but i have seen as iam sure many of us have watching the weekend cars shows. they color sand the base coat before the clear goes on ?
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Old 10-07-2008, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
It is always going to depend on how high the bar is set for the end result..

If the idea is a perfectly clean satin base coat to be cleared once it meets the standard set by the demand then any base coat system that can't be worked , perfected and re-coated after sanding wouldn't make sense or be desirable especially if the bar is way up there in this reporters opinion.

The whole reason to opt for bc/cc is it's workability in the best and worst of conditions as well as considering the new and first time painters.. So yes you can sand it and if it fails post it up so we can pass along what doesn't work and set the bar higher for everyone in the hobby


Milo, I agree totally. And that is why I will no longer use any base system that requires a specific reactive or basemaker type reducer. I've seen the failure first hand and posted the results here with photos from the DPont basecoat test. There's many good basecoat systems out there that use regular urethane reducer and when activated work extremely well with excellent durability and ease of use- And they can be sanded if needed!!!! No more special basecoat reducers/basemakers on my shelf!!!
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Old 10-07-2008, 07:36 PM
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To add, I still have the panels from the test I did about a year ago or more and the delamination is still a problem, adhesion did not improve with age. Some thought after a 30 day cure that adhesion would improve-it did not. The most interesting thing is with all the different grits used in the test the paint seperation always occured at the sanded level/layer. Even 222S was tried on one swatch to see if it helped adhesion-it had no effectl. The only sample that is not seeing any delamination problems is the one that was not sanded-it is perfect. Both metalic and solid colors were used in the test to see if that was a factor-and it was not. Don't sand DuPont basecoat.
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Old 10-07-2008, 08:37 PM
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Bob, how do you explain this delamination phenomenon?

Is it because the clearcoat bonds to the relative 'roughness' of the unsanded base, and sanding smooths out the 'tooth' and makes the bonding surface slicker?

Also, basecoat seems to be porous so that the clearcoat soaks into it, and maybe sanding tends to close up the pores.....?
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