![]() |
|
|
|
||||||
|
What I try to do is let the fresh clear set for 14 hours at 70 degrees.
If it looks like I want to polish it, I'll nib file and flat sand with 1000. (some projects/repairs actually need orange peel in there to match) THEN let it sit 12 - 24 hours so it can gas out all the way. Then resand with 2000 and cut/buff till glasslike with the white pad.. Follow with the grey pad and polish. If it doesn't get the inbetween time to gas out the buffer reseals the surface and it will dull/die back in short order.. This will make sensce to some but not all ... Rx, so resand with 2000 and let it set a day then ,yep, resand a quiky with 2000 before repolishing |
|
||||||
|
I followed basically the same path as milo did, but in addition before the buffing started I used Mirka Abralon 4000 pads wet with a DA. This dramatically sped up the buffing process, foam pads only.
Vince |
|
|
| Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| 96 Plymouth Voyager spark problem? | baddbob | Electrical | 12 | 05-19-2007 03:44 PM |
| Clearcoat problem.... | STATUTORY GRAPE | Body - Exterior | 19 | 04-03-2007 07:25 PM |
| help troubleshooting 89 350 TBI problem? | Chuck78 | Engine | 12 | 02-04-2007 07:08 PM |
| Puzzling temperature problem on the hemi solved | Centerline | Engine | 2 | 11-26-2004 03:48 PM |
| wet sanding and saving my finger tips.... | onebadmerc | Body - Exterior | 14 | 12-30-2003 05:41 PM |