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sanding rust away

3K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  idrivejunk 
#1 ·
This thread is intended to show examples of rusty metal that can be saved with some hard work and abrasives. It is intended to give the person evaluating nasty panels some idea of what can be done without blasting. The example shown is a '33 Ford that had nice looking paint on it. Not very old, but it had many defects appearing in the topcoat so all the paint and filler are sanded away to reveal the sins underneath.

Here is the trunk lid after stripping with 40 and 80 grit on a DA sander-

Before:



After:



Aside from the sandpaper mentioned above, the only other abrasives used were a 3M Clean-n-Strip XT (purple) wheel and maroon Scotch-Brite, also on a 6" DA sander.

More before views:







More after views:




On to the next example, the tail panel-

Before and after:




More befores:









More afters:






Epoxy should stick to that pretty well once its been cleaned thoroughly with plenty of solvent-based wax and grease remover and clean towels.

I have another example of heavier pitting on a hidden surface, and treatments are OK there but not on exterior panel faces. Just my opinions and techniques there, however. That post will follow shortly.
 
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#2 ·
From the last post- I spent most of a day stripping, sanding, cleaning, and priming the trunk lid. The tail panel took about half a day including some dent pulling which can be seen as those little high spots. I'm not done with the panels, just have the metal sanded clean enough to apply epoxy. Really did not think they would come out as good as they did!



I used a wire cup brush in addition to the abrasives mentioned in the previous post, in this area. Then I applied rust converter-



These are after sanding off the first application-





Then after round two, and cleaning-



This is after brushing rust encapsulator on that-



I hope these visuals can aid in your decisions when assessing ancient sheetmetal. This is to show one man's approach, and I make no claim that my procedure is correct. You can do this much in your garage or driveway and keep the sand(blaster) man away.
 
#4 ·
Well :D the point is to dig that crud out! Rather than to just trap it. Its room and board plus cash and oh... you gotta talk to the boss about my time off. :mwink::rolleyes::sweat:

How many kinfolk can I bring with me?:confused:

Same as Opsho? Of course not, its Eastwood brand. They may share some ingredients though.

I found the work fairly unpleasant but it would be tough to charge much for it.

Kinda looks like the previous repair man may have put like one coat of Rust-Mort and wiped putty over it. It always trips me out to discover stuff like this under nice paint. It had urethane over gobs of lacquer primer.
 
#6 ·
I kind of figured out that Eastwood would have all kinds of secret inert ingredients in it. At 23.50 a Gallon and no shipping (Local hardware store carries it) I think I will stay with Ospho.

I hate using chemicals to strip and de rust parts but it is a necessary evil. I am actually thinking about some sort of spray and recover method to de rust parts using ospho!

As for getting you out here I have some low friends in high railroad places saying they would let you travel with them if you don't mind riding rail class! Cheap rates and lots a fresh air!!

The Big bump in this would be workin with them wimmen! "The War Department" is in truce mode right now but you know how they can change in half of a millisecond!!!!!

Now Bout them cousins, bring the whole pack if they are strong males I gots lots a brush clearing and tree trimming for them to do. I will even let the whole pack of ya stay in my 33ft RV.

Now as fer monetary compensation.. Would you take a postdated check and two rolls of wooden nickles?:cool::thumbup::thumbup:
 
#5 ·
Nice job on the panels! It makes a big difference when working on stuff like that.
One trick I have been using for a long time is POR15's Metal Prep.
POR 15 Metal Prep Gallon
It will remove all of that surface rust in a few minutes with a good soaking and use of a maroon ScotchBrite pad.
It also leaves a phosphate coating that will remain rust free for a long time without the need to immediately prime the surface.
Just an example:
Here is a welding top I cleaned up a couple of years ago. Knocked off all of the loose stuff with a D/A.

First pass with the Metal Prep and ScotchBrite pad. I spray the MP on and simply scrub it with the ScotchBrite.

After the second pass it was pretty clean. It's hot rolled so the marbleing you see will not come out.

This is the bench it's on. I repurposed a trash picked vanity.

The bench was built two years ago and the top is still clean and rust free.
Mark
 
#8 ·
Astro racer, I am amazed how well the scuff pad does in these situations and I see it worked pretty well in your case.

RipVW, yeah Ospho is the one that gets all the internet glory but I sure do like the performance of the E-stuff. Woops, gotta go. My possum jawls are ready! Yum!:D
 
#9 ·
Most shops wont use Eastwood products That's DIY stuff. Try a few others and see what you think about them too.
paint, primer bondo, wont stick unless prepped properly, That's the whole problem with using these kind of rust removal products, nobody takes the time or learn to metal prep properly That's where all the problems come from but theres absolutely NO doubt that they do remove rust well and protect.You just have to do a proper prep. You wouldn't believe the heavy rust I've removed using them.
 
#11 ·
You sound like a broken record.

Tell the truth about your personal hands-on failures with Eastwood in recent times if you like but do it on another thread, this one is not about chemicals. See title. Allow me to review what you have said, sentence by sentence:

You and your employer are naive.

The product you use is bad.

You won't try products I like.

You don't know how to use what you have.

Your product will fail.

You just won't learn.

Everyone's problems are from not listening to me.

My favorite product is the solution to everyone's problems.

I do it right, you don't.

How right I do it would blow you away.

There, I translated your post. You need new material, funny guy. This old tune is burned-out. It's so dogmatic that it's truly just sad. If you have pointers about sanding rust off, type them up with proper punctuation and make a relevant post. Take one more shot at my boss and you can be the guy who ran me off.
 
#13 ·
I thought it was a large no-no myself! And yeah, if people say you're slow but you never get fired for it... you're the guy who offers quality where otherwise it would be unavailable. Care is so yesterday! :rolleyes:
 
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