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SB Chevy Engine brake in

1K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  frige 
#1 ·
:welcome: Hi everyone, David here I'm looking for the best way to brake in a sb chevy racing engine
Thanks
 
#2 ·
A racing engine? true racing engine?

Start it up,run a few minutes above idle,set all tune specs as per racing done. Drive the car to make sure it sounds/feels correct. Do a couple 1/2 throttle accellerations,stop car,recheck that all is well,,,,fluids/belts/hoses etc.
cool engine and recheck valves

Go race
 
#3 ·
There's really no break-in for a roller cam, but if it's a flat tappet (hydraulic or solid) it will need lighter springs, special oil or additives, and to be run at varying speeds between 1500 and 3500 RPM for 20 to 30 minutes.

Russ
 
#4 ·
Kinda like Vinnie mentioned except I've lately used a dyno to break in new engines (racing and otherwise). It has worked out great. 60 minutes and they've been good to go. Start out half throttle, do some pulls, cool down. Rinse and repeat but with more throttle. After 30-50min (depending on engine heat) go WOT pulls.

The idea is to load the engine down. You want to stay away from just sitting and idling too much. Street driving can load the engine okay but takes longer. With a dyno you can load it down as you want and complete the process much faster and more controlled.

The other thing that makes the dyno a good way IMO is you can watch for any issues at the same time which you cannot do driving on the street. Or stop immediately if something needs attention.
 
#5 ·
I have a little 383 small block I run the crap out of at the track. 5500 rpm on the transbrake and shift at 8500. It puts out about 700 hp and we put a 200 shot of nos on top of that. After a freshen up we start the engine up and let it warm up to temp at a high Idle. Then run the valves. Once we get to the track I drive it around in the pits a little to warm it up and then go make a motor pass. Next pass it gets the nitrous. I probably have 400 passes on the same set of pistons so I guess it likes it. ;)
 
#6 ·
We need the zinc additive when breaking in a flat tappet cam; no argument. Once the motor is broken in and has say 500/1000 miles on it, do we need to add the zinc additive with future oil changes? Asked this question many times; if the man sells the additive, of course he says yes. If not, most of us don't know for sure and will add it to cover our a---s! It's not a cost factor, wiping a cam and lifters is a lot more expensive, so $10.00 is cheap insurance. But........I still would like to know and be confident I don't hurt my motor. Thanks in advance !
 
#9 ·
Zinc / Oil

Rollers do solve some problems but it can be tough finding one for a '40 ply. flathead, or a '62 / 235-6cyl. I understand what you are saying but I play with some different cars / motors and have to deal with the old flat tappet solid and hydraulic cams and lifters and don't want to wipe a cam because of the lack of zinc issue. Thanks to all for your input!
 
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