Originally Posted by kentactic
Ah i see. and yeah i meant clearance the cylinder not cut the rod itself. Is it typical to have to do this on a 383? Or should i assemble it first to see if its an issue?
Sorry dont mean to rob this gentlemens thread.
383 strokers have three (3) possible points of interference between the rods and internal surfaces and the cam. These can be the pan rail, the bottom projection of the cylinder walls into the crankcase area and the camshaft. Not all blocks have all these interferance points as there are differences between castings that may or may not allow rod clearance with a stroker crank. The cam can be counted on to be an all the time problem however. So you need to check the clearance all the way around.
Generally, capscrew rods have fewer clearance problems than do conventional bolt and nut arraingements. But even when using stroker clearanced rods you've got to check these interference places. It's considered that .050 inch clearance is sufficient, it ain't much though. When it comes to grinding the block especially around the cylinder bases don't remove more materail than absolutly necessary as this area can be thin. The bolt and nut rod unless its the 400's 5.56 inch job will require grinding on the bolt head, while considered safe in the popular press, I can't and don't do it, that's the kind of thing that will keep me awake at night so I always build these things with a cap screw rod, for a budget street perfomance engine/claimer/ even a rules Sportsman my choice is the SCAT ProStock or ProComp >>> Scat Crankshafts
<<<. My preference is for the floating pin configuration in the 6 inch length. But there's nothing wrong in using the press pin nor the 5.7 inch rod.