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Old 09-15-2002, 10:40 PM
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Question sbc 283/302 buildup

i am looking at a '66 chevy 283 to rebuild and have some questions. what are the chances that i'll be able the go .125, or even .155 over? should the replacement pistons be forged, or are castings sufficient. what kind of power would an engine like this put out, on a budget rebuild (ie. new pistons, cam, intake, carb?, and ported heads). thanks for any feedback.
vince

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Old 09-15-2002, 11:30 PM
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if you want bigger bore you cannot just bore the hell out of your 283, going .125 over will accomplish nothing but enableing you to inspect the water jacket, which is all that will be left. you have to find an old style (small journall) 327 block, then slapping your 283 crank in it will yield the 302 screamer you are looking to build,

with mildly portet camelhump heads (or portet vortech) 10:1 comp, a good intake and something like a Isky 280 mega cam will yield arround 400 to 420 horses.

i would use some 6 inch rods or longer which is possible with the short stroke you are going with, some rods from a ford 300 I6, they are 6,125 long and costs 26$ each from Paw, then just order custom forged pistons and you are set
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Old 09-16-2002, 04:50 AM
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Although .125 seems a little large( i think the .155 is too much) we used to bore 283s to 4" regularly, before they made the 302 we called them 301s. The blocks are a lot heavier than modern castings, so it's not a problem, I'm not sure how far you can go over that though. When I worked as a machinist in the late 60s early 70s it was a fairly regular occurance, as a Ford guy I was a little jealous since we could only go about .030 safely with a 289. Several companies offered and probably still offer Pistons for that bore in a 283.
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Old 09-16-2002, 07:21 AM
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I am with wood on this. We used to bore 283's on a regular basis to get 301's. .125" is as far as I would go on the overbore, BUT GM, as well as all manufacturers, started making their iron castings lighter and the later blocks may not be able to go as far as .125". Find a good shop that has a sonic tester and they can tell you for sure. Listen to their recommendations on maximum overbore, if not your engine will overheat regardless of how efficient the cooling system is. If you are lucky and can make a 301" (aka 302) you will have a screamer.
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Old 09-16-2002, 11:00 AM
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Yes, that's right most 283's will go .125, I'm doing one now, but I opted to go .060 just to leave a little room just in case I need to go bigger later. These engines make alot of horsepower for their size, but they don't have very good low speed torque, they like manual transmissions, light weight and low gear ratios.
One other thing, if you intend to use 2.02 valves in your heads, you need to watch it if your bore size is less than 4 inches, you can run into bore shrouding and even interference depending upon how much valve lift you run.
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Old 09-16-2002, 12:27 PM
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GET READY FOR A SHOCK! I'M GONNA QUOTE A HOT ROD ARTICLE!!! Vortec heads will clear the small bore with 1.94 valves P/N 12559060 at @ $460/set; speed pro L2275F domed, forged pistons at .60 over (292cid) for 10.9:1 compression with the vortec 64cc chambers. solid dome pistons cam be milled for less compression or you can cut the heads to 58ccs for nearly 12.0:1. use budget manley aluminum rods P/N 14001-1 just for fun. combine em with a nasty solid or roller cam and an edelbrock super victor intake for vortec heads PN 2913 and you could have an 8000 rpm screamer that makes 475 HP Also dont forget to sonic check your 283 block to see if it can be bored .125 over to a 4.000 inch bore. pistons are available from speed pro for either 5.700 inch rods PN 2210AF or 6 inch rods. end quote .dont make me write that again anybody! ps i'd love to be able to build this motor
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Old 09-16-2002, 03:46 PM
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YESSSSSSS! I am trying to build the same motor, using a 4-bolt main 350. Figured it would be cheaper to find one and then use the 283 forged crank. I am still looking for a "spacer" bearing to be able to use the small journal 283 crank in the medium journal block. I plan to go with 8.5 to 1 compression so I can dual turbo it!!!! With the right cam, lightweight valve train, lightweight flywheel, and a 5 speed, it should go like STINK!!! <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" />
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Old 09-16-2002, 07:17 PM
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What month hot rod was this in? I have a 292 CI 283 myself, and was told the head would bolt up, but that the dome would negate alot of the benefits that this head offers, maybe it will work, I know the Vortec head flows well, but the small heart-shaped chamber made me wonder how well it would work with the L2275 piston, which is what mine has, and they have a .400 inch dome, and no I don't want to mill the piston down, I guess i'm probably going to have to try it since the Vortec head is so damn cheap!!!!!
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Old 09-16-2002, 07:21 PM
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Oh, and by the way, Scat makes a nice I beam rod, with dowels, ARP bolts and bushed for floating pins around 250 bucks for a set. Sallee Chevrolet offers them.
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Old 09-16-2002, 09:16 PM
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the 283 article was in august 2002 hot rod (part of their "25 ways to build a small-block chevy" piece). what intake would you guys advise for such an engine? hot rod suggests the super victor, but would this hurt the street-ability of the engine? would a dual plane such as the RPM Air-Gap or Weiand Stealth (w/o vortec heads) perhaps be better? thanks for all the responses.
vince
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Old 09-17-2002, 10:18 AM
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A super victor is an all out top end manifold, the original Z-28 used a winters dual plane similar to a performer RPM, which worked very well. I'd say a Victor Jr. or Performer RPM would be a more logical choice.
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Old 09-17-2002, 01:42 PM
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The Holley Street Dominator is a "replica" of the old Z-28 type manifold. It doesnt have the oil tube but does have holes for both types of alt. brackets. (square bore dual plane)
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Old 09-17-2002, 02:08 PM
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Last time I checked the 302 pistons were really expensive and you don't find them readily. The original pistons were at something like 11:1, with 64cc heads. This is outside the pump gas realm. I believe the cam was the old "30-30" Duntov. To get the full benefit you should have a light car.
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Old 09-17-2002, 06:44 PM
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I would not bore it anymore than enough to clean it up. Spend your money on a good street cam, a small four barrel carb with vac secondarys and a torque style exhaust system. The heads could be replaced with new/better cast iron heads or step up to aluminum street style heads. If you want more than 250 hp strap on a small nitro kit if legal in your area. Spend some money on improving the handling and enjoy the car. If you really want to race get real and get a big motor. However it will cost and cost and cost.
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Old 09-17-2002, 07:04 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by RedRocket:
<strong>i am looking at a '66 chevy 283 to rebuild and have some questions. what are the chances that i'll be able the go .125, or even .155 over? should the replacement pistons be forged, or are castings sufficient. what kind of power would an engine like this put out, on a budget rebuild (ie. new pistons, cam, intake, carb?, and ported heads). thanks for any feedback.
vince</strong><hr></blockquote>


If I am reading your post correctly......you are looking at a 66 283.

Just say no. Save your money and get a newer, larger engine. The old heads do not like unleaded fuels. Bigger engines pull better on the street, are faster at the track.

Why spend money boring a 283 ( bore 3.875 ) when you can buy a 4" bore block (327/350) for less money than the bore job.
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