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Dreadhead 05-04-2010 08:57 PM

SBC 327 Build
 
Have a 327 SBC. Small journal forgred crank. Comp 292H hydraulic flat tappett cam. Reconditioned rods. Forged GMPP Dome pistons -5.00 cc volume (p/n-3866954) ??? :confused: ... Just bought a set of phase 6 55cc bowtie heads. Wondering if they'll work well with my short block without the compression being to high for street use. Won't mind using a little 110-116 octane but would like to drive the car regularly. Would appeciate any help or recommendations. Thanx

327NUT 05-04-2010 09:15 PM

Just a couple of comments, that cam is HUGE for a 327, won't idle worth a damn and you would need a big stall converter. The compression will be way too high with dome pistons and 55 cc heads, this combo work on a street car. If you want it really streetable use 9-9.5:1 comp and a cam that is around 260-270 deg max.

Dreadhead 05-04-2010 09:17 PM

What pistons do you think would work wit them ?

ericnova72 05-04-2010 10:30 PM

With your current pistons you will be at 11.6-1, way too high for any pump gas. A flat top piston would put you at 10.25-1 and would be fine on pump gas.

The Bowtie Phase 6 head is rather unspectacular in unported form,they are cast with small ports, it is intended to be ported heavily before use and only has flow numbers roughly comparable to a stock Vortec head if used unported. A cartridge roll blend helps, but it really takes full-on porting to make much of them.

Hope you didn't pay a bunch for them if they are not ported, virtually every aftermarket head is better out of the box.

Dreadhead 05-05-2010 06:10 AM

Would you recommend 2 or 4 valve reliefs ?... Probably going with KB Hypereutectic pistons.

ap72 05-05-2010 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadhead
Would you recommend 2 or 4 valve reliefs ?... Probably going with KB Hypereutectic pistons.


with 55cc chambers I'd run 4VR pistons- HOWEVER if you've had those heads worked on (like they were cast for) then your chamber will not be the advertised volume unless the deck mating surface has been cut.

Dreadhead 05-05-2010 07:01 AM

Bought them from another guy (never ran) and highly doubt they've been ported... Think my best bet would be to take them to a machine shop so they can check them out and take it from there ? Only spent $300 on them thought it was a steal for a new set of aluminum heads.

Dreadhead 05-05-2010 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 327NUT
Just a couple of comments, that cam is HUGE for a 327, won't idle worth a damn and you would need a big stall converter. The compression will be way too high with dome pistons and 55 cc heads, this combo work on a street car. If you want it really streetable use 9-9.5:1 comp and a cam that is around 260-270 deg max.

It's going to be taken to the track often to though. So if I did drop my cr to the low 10 range you would still recommend a 260-270 deg cam ?

ap72 05-05-2010 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadhead
Bought them from another guy (never ran) and highly doubt they've been ported... Think my best bet would be to take them to a machine shop so they can check them out and take it from there ? Only spent $300 on them thought it was a steal for a new set of aluminum heads.


As long as you don't mind dropping 750-1000 at a machine shop those heads can be made fairly decent.

As far as cam goes, I would NOT use that 292 cam, if you already have it then go ahead and use it but its far from ideal. If you want a race cam get a flat tappet solid cam with face oiling lifters, if you want a low maintenance cam then knock about 15 degrees duration off the one you selected. Better deal yet would be a solid roller cam, but most people can't afford that. a decent solid flat tappet cam with good lifters should run you under $300.

Dreadhead 05-05-2010 09:08 AM

It's still in the box. So I think I'll just take the cam back to summit and get one around the high 270 duration, and get the keith black 156-030 pistons. The next problem is problem is going to be matching up my cam operating range to my vic jr 3500-7000 rpm(only intake that'll bolt to the bowtie heads) operating range. Going down on the cam may cause me to loss power in the long run

ap72 05-05-2010 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadhead
It's still in the box. So I think I'll just take the cam back to summit and get one around the high 270 duration, and get the keith black 156-030 pistons. The next problem is problem is going to be matching up my cam operating range to my vic jr(only intake that'll bolt to the bowtie heads) operating range.


Why not run the solid cam? Seems like an easy decision. What gears/trans/stall are you running?

Dreadhead 05-05-2010 09:16 AM

TH350, 3500 hughes stall, 373 gears
What do you think about this one ?
Lunati Street Strip Solid Cam - Chevrolet Small Block 288/296 P/N- 401B8LUN

ap72 05-05-2010 09:19 AM

yep, solid cam territory. Why not use one?

Dreadhead 05-05-2010 09:28 AM

Friends just don't have to much experience with them. I'm only 18 but I want this motor to be able to stick with anything that may pull up beside it on the street. Any extra hassle with the solid lift camshafts ?

ap72 05-05-2010 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadhead
Friends just don't have to much experience with them. I'm only 18 but I want this motor to be able to stick with anything that may pull up beside it on the street. Any extra hassle with the solid lift camshafts ?


There will always be one car that is faster. But solid cams are really no hassle provided you do a few things-

use face oiling, or EDM lifters (the ones with a small hole in their face)
Use proper springs
take the time to set the lash, and set it a few thousandths tight
Use good oil, not the best oil Walmart sells but actual good oil (not available at Walmart).
Use locker rocker arm adjuster nuts (a girdle helps too).
Use screw in rocker studs.



All of those things except setting the lash need to be done with a hydraulic cam too, and with a hydraulic you have to set preload. You will have to adjust your lash about every 10-20,000 miles- though some have reported going almost 100,000 miles and never touching the lash. Setting the lash takes all of 30 minutes if you take your sweet a55 time (once you have the valve covers off).


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