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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2011, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scandinavian
Do you got different lubes fore assembly and running an engine?
Yes there are lubes specifically designed for assembly. They protect the rotating parts during assembly an give a little more protection during first start up. Proper lubrication during assembly can make a huge difference in the engine life. Also oils with ZDp additives help cam shaft break in.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2011, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by camaro8791
I am currently assembling a sbc 350. Ive got the crankshaft installed and all the main caps torqued to spec and all the clearances are good. Ive got engine assembly lube on all of the bearings but the crankshaft is really tough to turn over what could be the problem? I live in Minnesota and its 30 degrees and the garage is not heated.
I live in Anoka and seriously my fiend at 300 pounds and 6'7" could not spin my crank on Wednesday, on Saturday it turned perfectly. I think it was too cold out and your motor may have been sitting for while? Also think of heat expansion of metal etc.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2011, 10:00 AM
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crank

Check the runout on all the mains with a dial indicator, if thats ok could be the radius.
The cold weather will only affect the viscosity of the oil you used for assembly and i doubt if thats the problem.
If you cant find the problem dont continue the assembly,take the crank to a machine shop and have them check it for concentricity
could also be a problem with the line bore on the block or a main cap thats not correct
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2011, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by T-bucket23
Too much or too thick of a lube in the cold is going to make it bind, period.Take it apart, clean off the lube and put a little very light oil and see how it turns. You could also use a heat lamp to warm it up and see if it turns easier. Everyone seems to forget that any type of lubrication takes up space, this is why it theory the bearings never touch the crank.

You guys from warmer climates just don't get it!!

I have had crank/block assemblies that you could just barely turn over at 30 or below degrees. Warm the shop to 65+ for a few hours and the thing spins with your fingers, it's the assembly lube..

Same reason you don't run straight weight heavy oils (30w+) in northern climates

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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2011, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
Yes there are lubes specifically designed for assembly. They protect the rotating parts during assembly an give a little more protection during first start up. Proper lubrication during assembly can make a huge difference in the engine life. Also oils with ZDp additives help cam shaft break in.
i use the oil im going to run it on and i just pump up oil pressure before starting it up!
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2011, 11:21 AM
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It gets cold here in Minn. I was down at the shop and it is 62 deg and the assembly lube is like glue. I prefer plain old motor oil. 30 W is still going to be stiff in the winter here.

Just to be safe I'd take it apart and go with 10 W. Just put the front and rear bearings and caps on. Check the center main for run out with a dial indicator. You may have a bent crank. It is also possible to have the main bore out of line. You maybe in for a line hone on the mains. Assuming the crank is straight put plasti gage on the up side of each main and tighten everthing up. Take the caps off and check the PG. If there is more than .001 difference I'd suspect the block. Crank journals are usually right on the money consistant size. I would check them however.

My own motor is still tight after 18k miles. Even when it is hot.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com
You guys from warmer climates just don't get it!!

I have had crank/block assemblies that you could just barely turn over at 30 or below degrees. Warm the shop to 65+ for a few hours and the thing spins with your fingers, it's the assembly lube..

Same reason you don't run straight weight heavy oils (30w+) in northern climates
This is why the car cranks real slow on those 10 degree mornings. It gets cold here in MA as well and I agree with you. I dont think your you guys from warm climates was pointed at me.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:44 AM
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Born and raised on the shore of Lake Superior in Michigans beautiful upper peninsula. At -40 degrees, most engines do not turn over fast enough to start, no matter how good the starter or batteries. Engine heaters are a factory installed option up there. I suspect the engine assembly lube is the culprit @ +30 degrees. Many good suggestions already given. Assemble with 5 W 30 and prelube before starting. Big Al
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scandinavian
i use the oil im going to run it on and i just pump up oil pressure before starting it up!

Houska Jolua... Sorry about the spelling, please correct if necessary and how do you say Happy New Year ? I forgot
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2011, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Born and raised on the shore of Lake Superior in Michigans beautiful upper peninsula. At -40 degrees, most engines do not turn over fast enough to start, no matter how good the starter or batteries. Engine heaters are a factory installed option up there. I suspect the engine assembly lube is the culprit @ +30 degrees. Many good suggestions already given. Assemble with 5 W 30 and prelube before starting. Big Al
The winter in Finland isn't god for any Cinda of engines! except this year it rained last night.it should bee -30C or colder this time a year!.

Do you guys have electric engine heaters or the Webastu that actually burn the cars own fuel to hold the engine temp up usually with a timer so the battery isn't dead when its time to start the car?
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scandinavian
The winter in Finland isn't god for any Cinda of engines! except this year it rained last night.it should bee -30C or colder this time a year!.

Do you guys have electric engine heaters or the Webastu that actually burn the cars own fuel to hold the engine temp up usually with a timer so the battery isn't dead when its time to start the car?
The factory installed heaters are electric block heaters that replace a couple of the core plugs in the engine block. They can also be purchased in the aftermarket along with lower radiator hose heaters and heater hose heaters that are installed inline. We had diesel fuel fired heaters on our 240 ton rock trucks at the surface coal mine where I was a maintenence supervisor. They had a switch on the dash to ignite them, and in 30 minutes would have an engine with a 70 gallon cooling system ready to start. They were an ESAB heater.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2011, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
The factory installed heaters are electric block heaters that replace a couple of the core plugs in the engine block. They can also be purchased in the aftermarket along with lower radiator hose heaters and heater hose heaters that are installed inline. We had diesel fuel fired heaters on our 240 ton rock trucks at the surface coal mine where I was a maintenence supervisor. They had a switch on the dash to ignite them, and in 30 minutes would have an engine with a 70 gallon cooling system ready to start. They were an ESAB heater.
ESAB make nice welding machines didnt know they made heaters! i worked at a place where we made bedrock to filling material fore houses roads and stuff like that. we had the heaters with pone numbers so when i woke upp in the morning i just sended a SMS to my digingmachine and it was ready to roll when i was on the site!
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Scandinavian
ESAB make nice welding machines didnt know they made heaters! i worked at a place where we made bedrock to filling material fore houses roads and stuff like that. we had the heaters with pone numbers so when i woke upp in the morning i just sended a SMS to my digingmachine and it was ready to roll when i was on the site!
Now that is what I call a handy app. for a cell phone. Way better than a remote start.
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by adantessr
Now that is what I call a handy app. for a cell phone. Way better than a remote start.
its help full
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2011, 12:32 PM
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oil

Hey scandinavian
Why dont you put 2 100 watt light bulbs on the crank leave them on for a couple of hours n then check it
No offense intended but a lot of guys here r telling you cars wont statr when its cold
Your question stated you had the block with the crank in it n were trying to turn it over by hand, the crank has contracted the same as the block so you r right in assuming it could be the oil,I dont think so,the light bulbs should tell you.
BTw when u guys say engines turn over slow cause its cold please consider pistons, comp ratio, battery voltage,oil pump,cam ,lifters etc all these add to the friction coefficient,yes its hot in Alabama this winter day, its 65 out n sun shining
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