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Old 08-21-2003, 07:50 PM
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sbc 350 engine heating up

Hi to all, finally got my engine in my 67 chevelle, but it's wanting to heat up to around 225-230 in town and drops back to around 200-210 at speed. I'm running speed pro hypereutectic 2 valve relief pistons 30 over. Dart heads 2.02/1.60, 270 magnum comp cam, weiand action plus intake, holley 600 carb, HEI ignition, aluminum cat high flow water pump, 160 degree thermostat, 17 in flex fan. Its got the original radiator and shroud on it. I had it flow tested, and it flowed good. We had to set timing at 18 degrees BTDC for good throttle response. It's running a TH350 behind it with a 2200 stall converter and transgo kit. Is the timing high?? I live in the south where its HOT. Any help would be great.

Tim

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Old 08-21-2003, 08:00 PM
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Tim-Since it tends to run cooler at speed I would suspect an air flow problem. If it were me I would take a hard look at that flex fan, they have been known to cause just that sort of problem.
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Old 08-21-2003, 08:24 PM
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If i were u wut i would do is put the timing down for a day and see if theres a difference, if thats the problem then its a easy fix.. if not.. i'd say think about your timing chain? how recent is it? or is it new? i don't no if its true but i did have cooling problems.. and after changing alota things.. well bascily everything to do with the cooling system.. the last couple things i did that made the difference was, timing chain replaced with a gear drive.. and also put a stock reman. water pump so nothin special.. but it did the trick.. had to re time it also.. its pretty low timing but it needs it or it detonates.. its at 8* advance.. so maybe give a couple of those ideas some thought.. i serously won't blam it on the fan.. i had a flex fan on my big block with a chewed up shroud.. ran good all day! but i also put dual 10" eletrics on my 350 now...but anyways.. thats everything i can think of at the moment.. hope this helps
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Old 08-21-2003, 08:54 PM
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Trav, the timing chain is new, a TRUE double roller. Was the tightest one my machanist has seen in along time. At 8 BTDC the thing really was weak, went up to 12 then by 2 till we hit 18. Any more help guys, really appreciate the input!!!
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Old 08-22-2003, 01:17 PM
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First, if it is a newly built engine, you should expect it to run a little hotter than after the rings seat, but not as high as you have it. If your timing is too far advanced, it will ping and if retarded, it will leave unburned fuel in the chamber which continues to burn after TDC which causes the engine to heat up. So if anything, you should test more advance. I am using about 14 degrees static advance (no vacuum attached) and have run as high as 18 degrees without pinging.

Try another fan blade and be sure your fan belt is not slipping. This will cause the water pump as well as the fan to not run at the proper speed.
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Old 08-22-2003, 01:33 PM
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There's mixed opinions on this issue, but I like to run an electic fan instead of a flex/pulley type. Like F1 said, since it's new, it'll run a little hotter than normal at first, so it should calm down. But since it's cooler at speed, then you're not pulling enough air at idle/low speed. The reason I like the electric is they pull a ton of air at idle, something the flex fan can't do, and that's where I always have trouble. I don't know what kind of rad the original is, but you could look into an aluminum two core rad, or a 4 row brass.
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Old 08-23-2003, 08:29 AM
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Any idea what your total mechanical advance is? Vacuum advance (how much, where it's connected)?
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Old 08-23-2003, 09:29 AM
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Hey thanks again for the replys, here's what I've done: the CAT high flow pump i was running had a 3/4 inch shaft and a larger bolt pattern then my pulley, that's why I switched to the flex fan system. I pulled that pump off, and replaced it with a new stock pump and the clutch fan setup, moved my temp. gauge sending unit from the head to the intake manifold, put in a 180 degree thermostat that I drilled 2 -1/16 inch holes in across from each other, and put 50/50 mixture in it. Ran it for about 20 minutes, never got over 195. I'm hoping this will take care of the problem!! What's the best way to set your mixture screws on the Holley?? As for the timing, I'm tapped into the vacuum port on the pass. side of carb behind the front bowl. Set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC but still sluggish, I'm thinking maybe now it's in the carb setup. Was also told it could be the springs in my dist. I'm going to check my float adj. next. Not real up on the tuning of a holley, any help would be great!! Sorry for the book, rather give to much info then not enough!! See ya, Tim.
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Old 08-23-2003, 10:48 AM
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You may have ignition timing issues. Does that vacuum port have vacuum at idle? If not, hook the advance unit to one that does. You also may have an improper timing curve. Read these articles, I learned a lot from them:

www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/Ignition1.html


http://hotrodders.com/showthread.php...vacuum+advance

http://www.corvetteforum.com/techtip...=115&TopicID=3
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Old 08-23-2003, 04:52 PM
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try setting your timing at 34 or 36 degrees TOTAL advance.

do this by revving the engine to 2500 or 3000 and then set the timing (while still revving) a computerized timing light is required to do this on most applications so that you can achieve 34 or 36 deg.

You have the correct vacuum Port on the carb but does it have any vacuum just off idle??????

keep in mind that your advances should all be advanced by 2500 rpm or so and if it is still sluggish there and above changing the springs in the dist. probably wont do a whole lot for you above 2500

If its still lazy you can allways put a plate on it and that WILL wake it up
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Old 08-24-2003, 09:37 AM
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Well, still playing around with the timing-vacuum. Seems to be kinda a difference in opinion on what port the vacuum advance should be tapped into, Ported or Manifold! On my holley 600, ported is on the pass. side, behind the front bowl, manifold vacuum on the port under the front bowl. Read the articles jimfulco passed on to me, very informative but kinda over my head. Recommended manifold vacuum over ported. At 10 degrees initial, WITH manifold vacuum at idle, I get a reading of 26 degrees timing. Does this sound about right?? I currently am not running a tack, so kinda hard to get my total advance at 2500 RPM, (datsun350). Car sounds alot better like this, however, my idle is way high, with no more adj. on the idle screw. Is there another way to bring it down?? Thanks again to all thats responded. See Ya!!!
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Old 08-24-2003, 10:29 AM
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leave the timing high and bring your idle down with the idle screw and go out and take it for a spin you will probably be pretty impressed.

if your engine pings its too high back it off a few degrees.

depending on what type of distributor you have 36 degrees total advance should make your engine really happy.

stock gm HEI runs well from 34 to 36 for sure, I have played with that extensively. I would recommend hooking the vacuum advance on the metering block where you originally had it.
just my opinion though.
as far as the no tach goes just wing it all you are trying to do is achieve total advance it is not that crucial that you are exactly at 2500 or 3000 rpm. just close to it, above works too. Just play with it you will figure it out.
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Old 08-24-2003, 01:08 PM
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Something really dumb, but you do have all your air deflectors on, right?
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Old 08-24-2003, 06:02 PM
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Was this originally a V8 car?

I ask since it sounds like you do not have enough radiator to cool your coolant. When you were running that 160 stat, it should have cooled down well below 200.....maybe even all the way down to the stat closing at 160. This is while running down the freeway.

Something to consider.
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Old 08-24-2003, 07:35 PM
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350 c.i. heat range

So..if you're running a 350 motor, what would the ideal heat range be? Hot enough to burn off the condensation, but not to overheat....195-225 sound about right?
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