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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 03:13 PM
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Ah okay, going to go to a car parts place tommrow. Do you know if the hydraulic lifter is an over the counter item? or does it need to be special ordered?

Im not sure if proper break in procedures were followed.

I got the car with the engine recently rebuilt, he told me at the same time he had it bored out so its now a 357.

I doubt he put alot of miles on it. The oil still looks fresh.

The previous owner used the car to go to car shows on a trailer most of the time, and for a few short weekend cruses

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 03:15 PM
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I've never seen a lifter damaged that bad without there bein some damage to the cam.Flat tappet cams are cast & easily damaged.Now would be a good time to step up to a roller cam especially if you have a roller ready block.If not there are retro kits that will allow you to convert to a roller setup,just @ a higher cost.It is well worth it tho.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fang_x View Post
Ah okay, going to go to a car parts place tommrow. Do you know if the hydraulic lifter is an over the counter item? or does it need to be special ordered?

Im not sure if proper break in procedures were followed.

I got the car with the engine recently rebuilt, he told me at the same time he had it bored out so its now a 357.

I doubt he put alot of miles on it. The oil still looks fresh.

The previous owner used the car to go to car shows on a trailer most of the time, and for a few short weekend cruses
Standard hydraulic lifters should be available over the counter @ most parts stores.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 03:29 PM
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I strongly urge you to do a very thourough inspection of you cam.If there is the slightest damage to the lobe,this same thing is just gonna repeat itself.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 07:01 PM
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Your wasting your time just replacing that lifter. That lobe has got to be damaged and on its way down.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 03:40 AM
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There are lots of benefits to going roller cam.#1 is the problem you have now.#2 no break in to worry with. #3 You don't have to change lifters everytime you change cams. #4 Smoother/Quieter operation. #4 Better performance. #5 Less friction & heat introduced into the oil. #5 No special oil additives need to be used. The list goes on. If your block is the newer late style,you can get the retainers,etc from a junkyard or even buy new OE for less than a retro kit.Roller cams & lifters are much more durable.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 07:06 AM
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If I pulled a lifter out of my engine that looked like that I'd know that I would be replacing the cam an all lifters, 100% sure of that. Always remember the word "regret" Damn I regret only changing 1 lifter because my no.6 cylinder is still not right,Because the cam lobe is now shorter that the rest. You be doing this all over again if you don't install a new cam & lifters.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:47 AM
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Allright, i promised my self with this car im going to do everything the right way when it comes to parts.

What cam would you guys recommend? I see a bunch of different brands available. Rollers ranging from 500$ to 1000$

Comp 305 350 Chevy 269 XE Tuned Port TPI Roller CAM KIT | eBay

and flat tappets going from 200-400

Howard'S Cams Chevy SBC 297 297 507 507 108 HYD Camshaft KIT 305 327 350 400 | eBay

It doesent seem too difficult to replace the cam, so i'll probably do that, but it will require removal of the front clip to access it.

Edit: summits also got some cheaper ones, starting at 99$

Edit2: How do i know what timing to get, some keep the valves open for longer?

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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 08:59 AM
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Do you know if your block is roller ready?What year model is it.Also need as many specifics of you vehicle,engine,specs,trans,rear gear,& vehicle usage to spec out a cam.If your block is roller ready,you will see 3 bosses in the center of lifter valley & the area around the lifter bores will be machined flat.If you have an older block,you will need to get a retro roller cam kit.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:08 AM
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I don't have alot of info on the block,
the PO told me it has a th350 transmission, a 3000rpm stall torque converter, a new cam and rockers, new intake and headers eddlebrock, and a carb, and had been re milled to a 357. I don't have a model year.

I intend just to use the car as a cruiser. I snapped a few pictures, also the push rod is labeled. Its been regeard for more torque, i forget what he said.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 09:18 AM
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To make it right that motor should be pulled, disassembled and oil passages thoroughly cleaned, like it's been said you have to have metal shavings throughout and there is more than a likely chance the cam is damaged. Did you check the pushrods of a flat surface?

When you say "Edit2: How do i know what timing to get, some keep the valves open for longer? " it's clear you need to do some research on internal combustion motors; what you are talking about is duration, and you cant' just throw a long duration, high lift cam in a motor and expect it to perform, there are many variables involved in cam selection. Talking to a manufacturer is a start.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 10:01 AM
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Your block is not machined for a roller setup.You would have to use a reto kit or stay flat tappet.As has been said.I'm scared you prolly have shavings in your oil from the damaged lifter & cam.It only takes a small bit to damage the crank,bearings,if'it hasn't already.I'm 99% sure that your cam is damaged as well.
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:02 PM
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Okay, yeah I'm worried about the shavings too. What's the best way to flush it out? From the jeep comunity I have heard of putting a neodimiian magnet on the oil pan. It will eventually collect most shavings. That and rinsing out the motor with more oil?. Taking the motor out of the car is a little unfeasable for me. I do the work in my apartment complexs garage and have to keep it tidy. Plus I dontvhave a motor hoist
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:05 PM
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I'll also call up a few shops and see what they suggest for a replacement cam
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 01:23 PM
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Anyway you can get the specs on your current cam from the previous owner? Your heads & everything else is setup for that cam.If you end up with something with more lift or duration,your gonna need ck all clearances.It would be good if you knew the specs on your current cam.You may get lucky by changing the oil several times.IDK if the magnet thing works or not.It's almost impossible to get the shavings out.They get embedded in the bearing material causing rapid premature wear.Don't try flushing the engine with anything but oil.I would try to find the smallest micron filter available.
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