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Old 12-18-2010, 07:39 PM
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SBC 350 Ticking

I have a 1972 scout II with a 69 corvette small block. I was "rebuilt" buy the previous owner.

I have been trying to track down a ticking problem that comes and goes usually when warm

It looks like the lifter arms were re-used, I am not sure if this is common practice.

Here pictures of what I have found so far. Should these be replaced? the guide plate is scored would this cause a ticking sound?












Any help would be greatly appreciated

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Old 12-18-2010, 08:48 PM
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those scores are supposed to be there. they are oil slots.. they help oil flow around the rocker balls.

run the lash.. make sure they're all done properly.. I REALLY prefer to do mine with the engine running.. it's a little messy, but I've had better luck getting things right

if it still ticks, you might have a lifter that's going bad, or it could be a rod bearing on it's way.. use an automotive stethescope and listen.. a fuel pump can tick like a sun of a gun too.. so can a leaking exhaust manifold/header
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972scoutII
It was "rebuilt" buy the previous owner.
That's why I don't buy anything "rebuilt". If I'm going to need a motor, I buy a core and rebuild it myself. Those rockers and balls have been in there since they were installed on the assembly line at the factory. They'll still work for a light duty motor, but their best days are behind them.
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8oye
run the lash.. make sure they're all done properly.. I REALLY prefer to do mine with the engine running.. it's a little messy, but I've had better luck getting things right
Go to the boneyard and purchase two old valve covers. Cut the tops out of them, bolt them on and adjust valves without the mess. Make the part that you cut out just wide enough to get your socket through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kc8oye
if it still ticks, you might have a lifter that's going bad, or it could be a rod bearing on it's way.. use an automotive stethescope and listen.. a fuel pump can tick like a sun of a gun too.. so can a leaking exhaust manifold/header
So can a cracked flexplate....
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:49 PM
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The rebuilt motor came with the truck so I didnt have much of choice.

I just replaced the flexplate thinking that was the problem

All of the rocker balls do not have that groove so that is why I was confused


I plan on replacing the rocker arms, but I was wondering if that could actually be my problem
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Go to the boneyard and purchase two old valve covers. Cut the tops out of them, bolt them on and adjust valves without the mess. Make the part that you cut out just wide enough to get your socket through.
I've already done that i had a pair of old crappy rusty 'chrome' valve covers that were ideal candidates to become 'sacrificial'
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Old 12-19-2010, 02:14 PM
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The story unfolds



Looks like one of the lifter studs is sawed and 1/3 through

Any idea what causes this.

My current plan of action is to get new rockers, and pushrods.

But I also need to replace the stud, so I might as well do threaded studs.

Can this be done with the heads installed on the motor?
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:52 PM
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Thanks for all the responses

So here is the plan

New rockers, nuts, and push rods

Use this tool to pull the studs and the as a guide for the tap
Proform 66783 Proform Rocker Stud Puller and Tap

Use Pioneer studs, these those dont require a jam nut
SCREW-IN 3/8"-24 X 7/16-14 BASE

RM-348-16-PIONEER-ROCKER ARM STUD
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