[kingofny1997]

whats up fellas, i have a Chevy 350 4bolt, with 305 HO Heads, 4bbl, edelbrock 1407 750Cfm, th350, stock rockers,Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam, weiand accelerator intake manifold,
Looking for a new cam, looking for something mild, but that doesnt require change of springs or pistons..

My cam i just removed says cwc 1517, Nice sound too it, looked everywhere for specs or replacement and doesnt appear anywhere, what can you guys recommend

(P.s i know my compression is higher than stock due to 305 heads, car came with this setup)

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by kingofny1997

whats up fellas, i have a Chevy 350 4bolt, with 305 HO Heads, 4bbl, edelbrock 1407 750Cfm, th350, stock rockers,Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam, weiand accelerator intake manifold,
Looking for a new cam, looking for something mild, but that doesnt require change of springs or pistons..

My cam i just removed says cwc 1517, Nice sound too it, looked everywhere for specs or replacement and doesnt appear anywhere, what can you guys recommend

(P.s i know my compression is higher than stock due to 305 heads, car came with this setup)

Can you get the casting numbers off of the heads?

[F-BIRD'88]

Measure the lobe lift of the cam to ID it. Or stick it back in the motor and degree it
to determine the specs. Any ID/Part# grind # info numbers will be stamped on he end of the camshaft. CWC ='s Camshaft machine company. They make the camshaft cores. They don't grind the cam profile.


New cam choice:
What car? what gear ratio? what do you want the motor to do different, than before? Exhaust system?
Whats done to the 305 heads?

I would swap that intake for a Performer RPM dual plain hi-rise manifold.
Big difference in usable torque.

[kingofny1997]

Originally Posted by zildjian4life218

Can you get the casting numbers off of the heads?

Casting number on heads is 14014416
block casting number is 3970010 1971 350 4 bolt

Camshaft says starting from the front, cwc, D1, C1,1517 Usa

[kingofny1997]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Measure the lobe lift of the cam to ID it. Or stick it back in the motor and degree it
to determine the specs. Any ID/Part# grind # info numbers will be stamped on he end of the camshaft. CWC ='s Camshaft machine company. They make the camshaft cores. They don't grind the cam profile.


New cam choice:
What car? what gear ratio? what do you want the motor to do different, than before? Exhaust system?
Whats done to the 305 heads?

I would swap that intake for a Performer RPM dual plain hi-rise manifold.
Big difference in usable torque.

1973 Chevy Nova, 3.08, Nothing special, just sound nice if alittle power can be added without changing springs or pistons GREAT!!, Headers with Stock pipes to the back, not sure whats done to the 305 heads car was sold by wife since husband passed away..

[F-BIRD'88]

summit cam 1103

214-224-.442-.465 112

Comp dual energy 265DEH 12-208-4
211-221-.442-.465 110

If you ave more gear in the car you could get more agressiive on the cam
But you don't ....so..

These will both run with stock valve springs.
A new set of summit performance valve springs w retainers locks and seals is nice for max performance. low cost, drop on install.

The 416 heads are way better if ported to improve flow
1.94x 1.60 valves best.
In stock form they are just stock heads but the compression will be higher than stock but not excessive. Just right for these cams.

You will find either of these work well overall. The idle is not real agreesive.
Ok with 3.08's but 4.10's would be fun.

Good mix of power torque and mileage.

You really want to ditch that single plane intake manifold.
Big difference with the right intake manifold.
The edelbrock carb can use a bit of primary jet /rod fine tuning.
it will improve the fuel mileage. They work very well once dialed in a bit.
Use Champion RV8c or equal spark plugs @.035" gap in the 305 heads on a 350. Spark advance 34 to 36deg BTDC @ WOT.
The distributor curve may some work. They usually do.
It should run very well and make lots of power for you.

[kingofny1997]

Summit 1103 (quest-operatin rpm range1600-5200) not sure wht that means
(also FAIR IDLE)
Comp 265deh (expensive)

Elgin version e923m (similar specs to sum 1103, but smooth idle!great deal)

(would this go with my setup??????)

Speed pro CL1014R (similar specs dies at 4000rpm, ) not sure if it's good since it dies at 4000rpm


Bottom 2 cams were just some that I seen on this site after some hard searching,

[F-BIRD'88]

The cams I pointed to for you are not rough idle cams.
The idle is very tame and they work with a stock torque
converter. More power than your choices.

Howards has very similar equal cams at good prices too.
I like Howards cams
. have a look www.howardscams.com

Yes your milder cam choices the top end will tapper off a good bit sooner.

The cams I selected for you are good to 5000+rpm.
I have used then all at one point or another.

[F-BIRD'88]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-201264-27112/

Another nice cam for you.

Isky stuff is A-1. Worth the price.

[kingofny1997]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

The cams I pointed to for you are not rough idle cams.
The idle is very tame and they work with a stock torque
converter. More power than your choices.

Howards has very similar equal cams at good prices too.
I like Howards cams
. have a look www.howardscams.com

Yes your milder cam choices the top end will tapper off a good bit sooner.

The cams I selected for you are good to 5000+rpm.
I have used then all at one point or another.

Thanks Summit 1103 defently considered, seen a video of how it sounds on a chevy 350 sweet, also for $100 for the kit, great Deal!!

[kingofny1997]

Just ordered the sum-1103 with lifter at 99.95 and hyped about it,
Wanted to know since I already have the fuel pump out due to removal of camshaft, should I get a new one since, the car sat for 6 yrs, and at anytime it could go and since I need to put a new gasket since I took of the fuel pump...also is their a gasket kit for reasonable price , instead of buying everything separate (valve,intake manifold,water pump,fuel pump, timing gasket set) ????

Also I read on a couple of these sites that they recommend to not run synthetic oil while break in, but I have 10w-30 royal purple synthetic oil (no zinc), so what should I do (valvoline vr1 oil with the break in cam oil) or what help..thanks firebird and fellas

[kingofny1997]

Ok, well got the cam today with the lifters , I got permatex ultra slick red assembly lbe, and the lifter came with assembly lube do I use my assembly lube or the one that came with the cam

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by kingofny1997

Ok, well got the cam today with the lifters , I got permatex ultra slick red assembly lbe, and the lifter came with assembly lube do I use my assembly lube or the one that came with the cam

paint the cam lobes with moly disulfide paste. (isky rev lube or crane cam lube) (grey moly paste) Moly Slip paste.

Use a converntional dino oil preferably with a high zinc additive.
Many "racing oil" oils have more zinc. Mot all off the shelf retail automotive oils have less zinc now.
GM EOS or Crane Super Lube break in lube is good stuff too.
Save the royal purple for latter.

www.molyslip.com
www.cranecams.com
www.iskycams.com

But reguarless you want the moly paste (moly disulfide) on the cam lobes.

Get the engine started and running quickly without a lot of cranking and run at 2000+rpm for about 1/2 hour. SO the cam gets friendly with the lifters without scuffing.

You can get the moly paste under various bands and packaging.
Most automotive lubricant companies make it.

Don;t forget the dip the lifters in oil ( do not fill the lifters just dip them.
And oil lube the rockers. The whole idea is to avoid dry start scuffing.

[kingofny1997]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

paint the cam lobes with moly disulfide paste. (isky rev lube or crane cam lube) (grey moly paste) Moly Slip paste.

Use a converntional dino oil preferably with a high zinc additive.
Many "racing oil" oils have more zinc. Mot all off the shelf retail automotive oils have less zinc now.
GM EOS or Crane Super Lube break in lube is good stuff too.
Save the royal purple for latter.

www.molyslip.com
www.cranecams.com
www.iskycams.com

But reguarless you want the moly paste (moly disulfide) on the cam lobes.

Get the engine started and running quickly without a lot of cranking and run at 2000+rpm for about 1/2 hour. SO the cam gets friendly with the lifters without scuffing.

You can get the moly paste under various bands and packaging.
Most automotive lubricant companies make it.

Don;t forget the dip the lifters in oil ( do not fill the lifters just dip them.
And oil lube the rockers. The whole idea is to avoid dry start scuffing.

I ordered the crane cam moly lube, and gaskets I needed,

But my question is you said "Dip the lifter, (do not fill the lifters just dip them)
I've always heard to fill up a little bucket with motor oil and drop them in their and let them sit in their for 3-6 hrs, then when going to install put the assembly lube on the bottom..and install..

[F-BIRD'88]

Filling the internal volume of the lifter with oil prior to install is not nessessary
or advised
And can make it real hard to adjust the lifter preload correctly.
Can end up with a locked up lifter plunger and no cylinder compression
The lifters fill all by them selfs very quickly on engine start up.
Just coat the foot with moly paste oil up the rest of it and drop them in.

Be sure to oil up the rocker arms too.

Dipping the roller wheel end of roller lifters in oil and letting the oil soak in to the roller bearing is good stuff but filling the internal cavity in the lifter is not.

You can soak your roller rocker arms in oil to your hearts content.