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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2012, 09:34 PM
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ChevroletSS, since you asked about a Scat balanced rotating assembly......... Scat #1-90350BE has a Scat 9000 series Pro Comp lightweight crankshaft, Pro Comp 5.7" I-beam rods with 3/8" cap screws, 18cc D-deck pistons, plasma moly rings, main and rod bearings, flexplate, and balancer, all balanced from Scat.

$1086.95 at Summit Racing

$1035.99 at Jegs

$979.00 at Flatlander Racing


If you prefer to have your balancing done locally Scat #1-90350 is the same kit minus the balancer and flexplate, and is not balanced. $833.95 at Summit Racing

$833.99 at Jegs



The 18cc D-deck pistons (D-deck for a good quench) assembled with a .040" quench with 64cc chambered head (64cc gives you the biggest selection in available performance heads) gives a static compression ratio of 9.68:1. A Summit K1103 cam/lifter kit would give a dynamic CR of 8.56 on the KB calculator, this puts you dead on techinspector1's recommendations.

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Old 11-22-2012, 08:36 AM
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Thanks for the help guys, it was very helpful. One more thing. Just curious to how a 400 crank in a 355 makes it have 28 more c.i.. I thought cubic inches was the space that the engine had.
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:39 AM
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Hey also I have another block out of a early nintys chevy 1500. It is machined for a fuel pump and has provisins to be a roller. But the three hole are not threaded. I have a tap and die set. Anyone know if its fairly easy to thread these holes. I dont want to start trying and mess it up. Also anyone know where to get the plate that goes in the lifter valley.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Thanks for the help guys, it was very helpful. One more thing. Just curious to how a 400 crank in a 355 makes it have 28 more c.i.. I thought cubic inches was the space that the engine had.
The displacement of an engine is the measurement of the space displaced by the up/down movement of the piston in the bore, not the measurement of the actual amount of space in the engine. So a bigger bore makes more space. A longer stroke also makes more space. Think of it like a can, if you make the can bigger around (bigger bore) it will hold more. If you make the can taller (longer stroke) it will hold more.

Your early nineties block will be a 1 piece rear main seal block so it will need a different crankshaft than a 2 piece rear seal block. The 3 holes in the lifter valley for the lifter retainer "spider" can be easily done, your machine shop would have no problem with it if you're uncertain. You will also need the front of the block prepared for the cam retainer if you're going to use a roller cam. You can still use a flat tappet cam/lifters as the block is now.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:31 AM
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ChevroletSS, the build I suggested would fall under your "torque monster" classification, it would still have very respectable horse power but wouldn't really fall into the "high HP" class. This will give you a 383 that will pull from a fast idle speed to over 5000 rpm (so it'll work well with stock torque converter and hiway gears, but even better with a higher stall and lower gears), it'll be reliable, and it'll do it on pump gas.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:55 AM
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I guess the 400 plus hp roller cam dart heads engine did not impress you?2 year warrantee,,,,
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigEd36 View Post
Think of it like a can, if you make the can bigger around (bigger bore) it will hold more. If you make the can taller (longer stroke) it will hold more.
Excellent.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:12 AM
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Thanks guys for the opinions and advise. I know there are a few different ways to build this project and Im glad I signed up for this site and found you all. I will keep you all posted on what I am going to do and post pictures on the project journal. Thanks again for the help.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:22 PM
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Hey guys Its been awhile since Ive posted on this post. Ive decided to spend around 1500 on heads. I want to up my HP goal from 400 to around 500. I know ill never know what HP numbers ill have with no dyno but I want something that is capable of producing that much. Is this realistically possible to do with heads around 1500 bucks??? Any suggestions. If I have to go up to 2000 bucks I will. It would be awsome to get over 500 HP. Just to update you all this is PROBABLY going in my 79 elcamino. Not sur yet. Will be carburated.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:41 PM
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Check out these dyno'd packages from Air Flow Research....
Air Flow Research
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:13 PM
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Wow makes it a little easier seeing dyno rsults. I like the SBC 195cc Street Competition Package. They make 692 Hp and 611 Tq and they cost just over 2000 for the pair. I think these would be a great fit for what I want on my build.

http://www.jegs.com/i/AFR+-+Airflow+.../1095/10002/-1

I also like these

http://www.jegs.com/i/AFR+-+Airflow+.../1054/10002/-1

what u guys think.

Last edited by ChevroletSS; 12-16-2012 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Wow makes it a little easier seeing dyno rsults. I like the SBC 195cc Street Competition Package. They make 692 Hp and 611 Tq and they cost just over 2000 for the pair. I think these would be a great fit for what I want on my build.

AFR - Airflow Research 1095 AFR SB-Chevy Street Aluminum Cylinder Heads

I also like these

AFR - Airflow Research 1054 AFR SB-Chevy Race Ready Aluminum Cylinder Heads

what u guys think.
The 692/611 is made with a Weiand 6-71 blower. Naturally-aspirated, the heads make just over 500. I'd be interested in the 1034 or 1036 part numbers, depending on chamber volume you want to work with. Straight plugs will work way easier with header tubes and flange plates.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/afr-1034
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/afr-1036

Last edited by techinspector1; 12-16-2012 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:38 PM
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What would be the advantage of getting the 75 cc over the 65cc. I mean I want more Compression so I would want the 65cc. I guess the 75cc is something u would want on a daily driver or what

Last edited by ChevroletSS; 12-16-2012 at 08:49 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
What would be the advantage of getting the 75 cc over the 65cc. I mean I want more Compression so I would want the 65cc. I guess the 75cc is something u would want on a daily driver or what
The manufacturers supply variables of basic parts, so you can custom-tailor each part to work closely with another part. For instance, if you had a 383 with flat-top pistons, you may want to use larger 75cc chambers to reduce the static compression ratio in order to be able to run pump gas in the motor. On the other hand, if you had 18cc dished pistons, you may want a smaller 65cc chamber to bring the static compression ratio up and make more power. Nobody pays attention, but I'm always preaching COMBINATION. First, you need to sit down and brainstorm yourself about what kind of power you want, the rev operating range you will be happy with, what kind of fuel you will use, the rear gear you will use, if auto trans, what stall converter, etc., etc., etc. No one part stands alone in making your combination work like you want it to. It is the sum of the parts that lead you to a conclusion of whether you have a motor that will perform to your expectations. COMBINATION, COMBINATION, COMBINATION.

Most first time builders will paint themselves into a corner by purchasing the camshaft first. There are at least 8,000 different cam grinds available, so put the other components together first, the ones that will serve your application. The next to the last thing you should purchase is the cam, followed by the torque converter. (This is after you have the rear suspension, tires, wheels,shocks and gears done). I don't know what it is about human nature that makes these first-time builders run out and buy a cam out of thin air, when the don't know anything else about their COMBINATION. They don't even know the static compression ratio of their build, something that you MUST KNOW if you are to build a motor that will do what you want it to do.

Last edited by techinspector1; 12-16-2012 at 09:16 PM.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 09:28 PM
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The difference between a 355 and a 383 if built with the same parts is approximately 30 to 40 lb.ft of torque. A 383 can usually handle a cam 1 step up from a 350 and have similar street manners. A 383 will make its power lower in the rpm range than a 350 with similar parts, which is good for a street motor that will not see high rpms. Vortec heads are also good for street motor as they produce good torque and are less octane sensitive thatn other iron heads so less chance of detonation. I run vortec heads with 9.9 compression and it runs fine on 89 octane.
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