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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 10:47 AM
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I respect that, I know that typing/texting sometimes comes off wrong. But anyway I guess what Im trying to figure out is how to get more for my money. I read a article on bowtie large port vortecs (215cc) against stock vortecs. (170cc) The large port had I think it was 9 more HP and I think it was like 17 more TQ. Now I know it all depends on what parts you use but I mean would I get just as ggod results in a 383 using stock vortec over the afr 195cc heads.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 11:18 AM
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the best bang for your bucks is by matching the parts. tech is very good at matching combinations.

simple head info,its all math,,,,
if the heads flow "X",lets say 200 cfm for example,working with a v-8,double the CFM for a street able HP potential when properly combined with the other parts. The valves and runners contribute to CFM volume potential,though not all are equal,example An AFR 180 cc intake runner head might flow more than a 195 from someone else,,,or:
A 170 vortec head will flow more air than an old camel bump 2.02,even though the vortec has 1.94 valves.

If you put a 1050 dominator carb on your 350,it will flow more than your engine needs,even though its not much more money than a 750 HP.Its obvious what carb to use,similar math for choosing heads.

How much HP do you need?how much can your car handle? what type of driving fits the engine you are willing to build?
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:56 AM
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Well 500 is the limit. Id like to get close to that thats why I chose the 195cc AFR heads cause techinspector showed me dyno results using these. I thinkin Im putting this in my 94 c1500 which weighs around 3500 to 4000. I would be using this for cruising. maybe try it at the drag strip, maybe. Def use it to haul wood, trailer, etc...


Dyno Test Criteria


Horsepower:500 HP
Engine:383ci
Heads:AFR Street 195 Cylinder Heads
Compression:9.5
Carburetor:Holley 0-4779 750 cfm
Ignition:MSD Distributor 36 Timing
Cam:Comp Cams 12-433-8 Hyd Roller Cam
Exhaust:1 3/4" Headers
Fuel:93 Octane Pump Gas

Last edited by ChevroletSS; 12-18-2012 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:09 PM
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that sounds like a fun combo.will come to life at 2k and pull to 5500 or a bit more.should have a nice idle
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Well 500 is the limit. Id like to get close to that thats why I chose the 195cc AFR heads cause techinspector showed me dyno results using these. I thinkin Im putting this in my 94 c1500 which weighs around 3500 to 4000. I would be using this for cruising. maybe try it at the drag strip, maybe. Def use it to haul wood, trailer, etc...


Dyno Test Criteria


Horsepower:500 HP
Engine:383ci
Heads:AFR Street 195 Cylinder Heads
Compression:9.5
Carburetor:Holley 0-4779 750 cfm
Ignition:MSD Distributor 36 Timing
Cam:Comp Cams 12-433-8 Hyd Roller Cam
Exhaust:1 3/4" Headers
Fuel:93 Octane Pump Gas

Do you have the engine??. Well even if you do,a donor truck roller block yrs 96 to 2000 would be a good idea. Yepper-that looks like a good plan above. Only thing that might be a better build for your use would be a LSx.
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:50 PM
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This is too bad deal,but you'll find if you call Competition Products you might find a better package price that isn't listed on their web site.

Howards, Pro Series 4340 Crank, Chev SB, 350 x 3.750 x 5.700-Competition Products
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:47 PM
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Dam thats a nice piece of metal. I dont think ill need that much of a crank. Im probably going to get a rotating assembly kit. If its internally balanced do I not need a hamonic balancer? Also does anyone know where to get gallery plugs and dow pins.
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:08 PM
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Dam thats a nice piece of metal. I dont think ill need that much of a crank. Im probably going to get a rotating assembly kit. If its internally balanced do I not need a hamonic balancer? Also does anyone know where to get gallery plugs and dow pins.
The shop that has your block can install new oil galley plugs and dowel pins.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:06 PM
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I do have a roller block in awsome shape. If you seen my other post about main bearings and a crank thats what they came out of. Ive decided to get all the parts listed above for the roller so I can squeeze more RPMs out. I got two 906 vortecs in the basement to that seem to be ok not cracked which would be a miracle. I hate to spend money on them but I gotta get them checked just in case. So the 355 Im gettin back freshly redone Ill make my 383 vortec truck motor and the 94 chevy roller block Ill make my bad a s s street motor with the parts above. That only makes more sense to me anyway. But I gotta find a new machinist cause this guy takes to long. He tried tellin me yesterday that if he has to line hone it Id be better off gettin a new block. Thats BULL He also said that drilling holes to make it a 4 bolt main makes it weaker. That dont seem right. So guys look for a new post called 383 performance build (continued) as I am changing plans for this block and When I get my forged bottom end for my roller Ill start one for that with the parts above. Ill keep you all posted.

Last edited by ChevroletSS; 12-18-2012 at 07:20 PM.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
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Dam thats a nice piece of metal. I dont think ill need that much of a crank. Im probably going to get a rotating assembly kit. If its internally balanced do I not need a hamonic balancer? Also does anyone know where to get gallery plugs and dow pins.
How about if you could get that for say $450??. They have a section called "The broom". It's where they sell off over stocks and stuff they used just for shows. Howards also sells rotating assemblies. They are a step up from the "deals" I spoke about and not the high end price,but certainly middle of the road. Call them up and ask to speak to the tech dept telling them what you doing and have a interest in the Howards stuff. See if they have any sales going on that brand name.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:40 AM
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Thanks for the tip on that website. Ill def get a forged crank for around 500
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:43 PM
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SBC 355 Performance Build

Here is a set of heads that is on Brodix website that was dynoed on a 350, flat top pistons with a Callies Compstar forged crank and 6" forged rods, and COMP CAMS Hyd Roller Cam, advertised duration 293/299, .540/.562 lift, 112 LSA ICL 108.5. 568 hp @ 6000 rpms and 542 lbs torque @ 4700 rpms. Brodix Cylinder Heads IK 200 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Chevy 1021001 - SummitRacing.com
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:58 PM
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I'm suggesting he keeps the "R"'s down and capitalizes on low end torque....................


This craze to HP on street driven vehicles just doesn't make much sense.All of us got wholesaled on HP yrs ago and now bad habits die hard. Even some of the best bracket cars are torque beasts and not so much HP animals. The first 60'/330' matters.

If your going to tell me a HP rating at 6,000 or 6,500 on the same sentence as talking about a vehicle mostly driven on the street,I gotta stop and clean off my keyboard and screen from the coffee I coughed up.It's a whole lotta so what??. Count the number of times you actually used that on the street. I am saying for street light racing what really matters is torque. Well torque and getting the car to hook.

And if you going beyond 65 to 70(that's pushing it too),you need to have someone take you behind the shed to explain in street light racing that ant cool.

Sorry guys,but when I see a torque peak at 4,500 and HP curves at 6,000,it gets me into a bit of a rant.

Tailor build the intended use.We know how to do this. We can spend the money where it is most useful and enjoy the build.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
I'm suggesting he keeps the "R"'s down and capitalizes on low end torque....................


This craze to HP on street driven vehicles just doesn't make much sense.All of us got wholesaled on HP yrs ago and now bad habits die hard. Even some of the best bracket cars are torque beasts and not so much HP animals. The first 60'/330' matters.

If your going to tell me a HP rating at 6,000 or 6,500 on the same sentence as talking about a vehicle mostly driven on the street,I gotta stop and clean off my keyboard and screen from the coffee I coughed up.It's a whole lotta so what??. Count the number of times you actually used that on the street. I am saying for street light racing what really matters is torque. Well torque and getting the car to hook.

And if you going beyond 65 to 70(that's pushing it too),you need to have someone take you behind the shed to explain in street light racing that ant cool.

Sorry guys,but when I see a torque peak at 4,500 and HP curves at 6,000,it gets me into a bit of a rant.

Tailor build the intended use.We know how to do this. We can spend the money where it is most useful and enjoy the build.
Sounds like a truckload of common sense to me.
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:36 PM
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I some what agree with 1gary,,,

In order to compete with a guy that has a 2300 pound civic with an 8,000 rpm 1.8 liter v-tec I have to have both torque and HP.Most torque monsters shred the tires while getting in their own way.I have a 3200 pound car so I need over 400 HP to be even with a near stock v-tec in a civic. I feel sorry for people that are trying to compete with 30 year old technology. We need engines that can rev freely to 6,000 plus to beat up the imports.

drive a new Camaro/Mustang?Challenger,,,great power,but they all are 2 ton tanks.
even the new corvette,close to 3700 pounds,OMG!!!
Shelbey was working on a cobra that weighed 2200 pounds and had 600 HP,that guy was a genius/crazy
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