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Old 11-20-2012, 07:53 AM
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SBC 355 Performance Build

Hey yall Im new to the site. I am building my first performance engine. I will be getting my SBC 350 block back anytime now from the machine shop. Things I have had done to it are, Magnafluxed, the deck surface which I dont know how much he took off. New cam bearings, new freeze plugs, I had it line honed, and bored .030 over. Its a 2 bolt main (3930010) block. I have two different routes I am thinking about going with this but have not decided which one to go with. Its either make this engine build to be a torque monster or High horse power street engine. It would not be a daily drive. Just ocassional. It would be awsome to have the best of both worlds on this build. I do have experience building stock engine but dont know a hole lot about performance parts. I have decided to put my budget around $3,000. I want to go with EFI but its to expensive so I am going with a carb since it is a simple setup to install and cheaper. Thanks for any and all input on this. Feel free to ask me anything if I left anything out.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:42 AM
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Going EFI is not that expensive if you use junkyard parts.

Here's a basic plan I would look at -

Keep your crank, get a good set of 6" rods and light pistons- $800

A bare set of Import heads from here: Assault Racing Bare SBC Small Block Chevy Aluminum Cylinder Heads Angle Plug 350 383 400 - KMJ Performance will run you $400

A converted LT1 intake, remote thermostat, injectors, and MS1 system will run you about $800 (or way less if you're a good shopper), crank trigger and EDIS coils need to be picked up from a junk yard too.

which leaves $1000 for solid flat tappet cam with face oiling lifters, beehive springs, stainless valves, roller rockers, HV oil pump, good pushrods, and odd and ends.

You should have no problem getting 500hp out of it if you spend a lot of time checking everything and clean up the heads and intake.

This thing will be able to support 7,000 RPM if its built right so cam and gear it accordingly.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:57 AM
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not sure how you bored the block with out the pistons at the machine shop? decide the purpose of the engine and make sure the car is ready for it.
what trans/gears are you working with? 3k is not a big budget and what AP72 said,you will need to source some of the parts used
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:13 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
not sure how you bored the block with out the pistons at the machine shop? decide the purpose of the engine and make sure the car is ready for it.
what trans/gears are you working with? 3k is not a big budget and what AP72 said,you will need to source some of the parts used
You can bore the block without the pistons- make it 4.030" exactly and your clearances should be fine if the piston company did their job. You're relying on the piston company but I've done it without problems.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:26 AM
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Well what if I went with a carb and just bought a top end kit through edelbrock. I mean it would be faster and the parts would be matched but then again it kinda takes the fun out of building an engine. The EFI I think would be the way to go. As far as getting a LT1 intake, what do you mean converted???
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
I have two different routes I am thinking about going with this but have not decided which one to go with. Its either make this engine build to be a torque monster or High horse power street engine.... I have decided to put my budget around $3,000. I want to go with EFI but its to expensive so I am going with a carb since it is a simple setup to install and cheaper. Thanks for any and all input on this. Feel free to ask me anything if I left anything out.
Like Vinnie said. You want to build a high torque horsepower monster, and trust off the shelf pistons to give you important clearances you'll need? It's a crap shoot at best.

I'm surprised the machinist didn't require the pistons before doing any cylinder work, I'd shy away from that shop.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:02 AM
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Ya I dont know. I asked him If I should bring anything with me like the crank and if I needed to go ahead and get my pistons so he could make sure the clearences are good and he said as far as the crank that if I get standard size bearings I wont have any issue and he said nothing about piston specs or anything. He made it sound like when I bye my pistons that i need to get .030 over pistons and Ill be good. I figured they bore to exactly .030 over and when I bye .030 over piston thats what they are. Is this not the case. If not I better mic each cylinder and I guess have the pistons custom ordered.

Thanks for the input guys.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:51 PM
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Hey guys can someone explain the difference in performance from a 355c.i. to a 383 c.i.. I mean if they had the same parts thrown on them, nothing specific, how do they perform different?? I mean does a 383 have alot more torque or what........
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:55 PM
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you have 28 more cubes to play with. power should be similar with the same parts
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Ya I dont know. I asked him If I should bring anything with me like the crank and if I needed to go ahead and get my pistons so he could make sure the clearences are good and he said as far as the crank that if I get standard size bearings I wont have any issue and he said nothing about piston specs or anything. He made it sound like when I bye my pistons that i need to get .030 over pistons and Ill be good. I figured they bore to exactly .030 over and when I bye .030 over piston thats what they are. Is this not the case. If not I better mic each cylinder and I guess have the pistons custom ordered.

Thanks for the input guys.
You are not going to want to try to order custom pistons based on the bore diameter- this is bass akwards. The machinist needs to know (or SHOULD need to know) the actual diameter of the pistons before doing the finish hone, this is not any place for guesstimating!

No need to ask if he's going to use a deck plate to do the finish hone, I guess. But on the off chance he actually has one (and if you decide to stay w/him), have it honed w/a torque plate.

I'd also be concerned if he didn't ask what type rings you are going to use- different rings require different bore finishes.

Good luck and keep us in the loop.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:16 PM
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I will thanks for the heads up.

Can you explain why certain rings go with certain finsh hones. Whats the pros and cons of having certain rings. I guess what Im asking is what do you guys recomend.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:55 PM
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If you don't want to learn about EFI and how to tune it, then you may be happier with a carbureted system. I was just looking at the Edelbrock Pro Flo XT system and just about swallowed my teeth when I saw the $3,700 price tag. Everything I know about EFI could be written on the head of a pin with a #2 pencil, so it would take a lot of convincing to make me go with a system such as that. There is no way I'd be able to cobble up a system out of the boneyard either, so I'll probably be driving a carbureted hot rod when I cash in.

This being your first build, I would advise you to begin with as many cubic inches as you can muster. That means minimum 383. A 406 would be even better, but the blocks are getting hard to find. A Scat cast steel 3.750" crank, Scat Pro Stock clearanced 5.700" rods and a piston that has a generous flat area on the crown for setting up a tight squish would be my recommendations. Coordinate the chamber volume with the piston crown volume to set the static compression ratio at a pump-gas-friendly number (less than 10.0:1. I like 9.5 to 9.8, matched up to the camshaft's intake valve closing point to generate an acceptable dynamic compression ratio of 8.3:1 to 8.6:1 on the KB calculator). Coordinate the block deck height with the stack height and gasket compressed thickness to set the squish to the desired 0.035" to 0.045". Squish is the near collision between the crown of the piston and the underside of the head with the piston at top dead center. The piston comes up the bore and squeezes out the air/fuel mixture that is between the piston crown and the underside of the head, creating a "jet" of mixture across the chamber that homogenizes the mixture, eliminating rich and lean pockets and insuring a more complete burn in the chamber.

Sorry for getting off into build theory with you, but you really need to know this stuff if you're gonna bolt a motor together.

As far as piston rings, current thinking is for thinner rings (1/16 inch or 1.5 mm) with a plasma-moly face. The ring thickness will be dictated by your piston choice. You'll find a number of pistons that have been machined for 5/64 inch rings and they'll work fine on a street motor. Keith Black hypereutectic pistons will have special rings gap specifications, so pay attention. They also require a close fit, piston to wall, so coordinate the actual bore of your block and the wall finish with the supplier of the pistons and rings before you pull the trigger.

Last edited by techinspector1; 11-20-2012 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevroletSS View Post
Hey guys can someone explain the difference in performance from a 355c.i. to a 383 c.i.. I mean if they had the same parts thrown on them, nothing specific, how do they perform different?? I mean does a 383 have alot more torque or what........
383 is an after market crank that give you more stroke and thus more cubes. It does not use stock pistons the pistons made for the stroker are not as tall and the piston pin is moved to allow more storke. It does use either 5.7 or 6 inch rods stock rods are 5.7 and they are easier to install and cheaper. You can buy an egale balaneced rotating assembly with flexplate harmonic balancer rod pistons crank alreayd balanced and ready to install for mild build. High rpm build may require more machine work so just get the cast kit the forged kit is for over 500 hp engine.

The edelbrock kit works well. If you want 410 hp or so then you will be buying all the same parts whether you get the kit or not or buy it from edel or someone else. It also runs pretty smooth really not a bad way to go.

The edel kit and the 383 rotating assembly will make a nice power plant for most rides. Gear and weight always come into play when buying performance parts.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:14 PM
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Thanks guys u all are very helpful. I would like to go with the edelbrock top end kit like the two below, but say I bought those exact parts and just changed the cam to a slightly bigger one. Could I squeeze out a little more HP/TQ by doing so. The only bad thing is Edelbrock only has 2 flat tappet kits and I think I would be more satisfied with byeing my own parts but then again the parts in the kits are probably what I would get anyway but wouldnt it be better to go with something like summit racings aluminum 200 cc heads instead of edelbrocks 180 cc or 185 cc heads.

Edelbrock 2022 Edelbrock Power Package Top End Kits

Edelbrock 2098 Edelbrock Power Package Top End Kits


Also TechInspector1 what would you say about getting a scat 383 rotating assembly thats already balanced and comes with everything including rings so I dont have to figure out what goes with what like the one below.

Scat 1-92000 Scat Series 9000 Cast Crank Street Performance Rotating Assemblies

This is the only 383 c.i. kit I could find through scat thats 2 peace seal but the compression ratio is kinda high but I guess I could go with a different fuel. Its not a daily driver engine anyway. but it would be nice to use pump gas.

Thank you all for all the input. I greatly appreciate it. Sorry for all the questions.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:41 PM
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Horsepower
Torque
Bore & Stroke
Compression Ratio
Fuel Requirement
415 @ 5600 RPM
425 @ 4200 RPM
4.000 x 3.480
9.2 to 1
87 Octane 5895 complete from a very good seller

make sure your engine out performs this package by a lot or is a lot cheaper
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