[cdminter59]

Sounds like a good performance motor. Are you using 5.7" or 6" rods? You probably were on the right track to make 550 hp with the mechanical roller. Now with the hyd. roller you chose I would say it might make 500-530 hp with a 850 hp carburetor. You could do some mild porting to your heads and intake, that might help you to get the 550 hp. Not bad for being new!

[desmosis10]

Originally Posted by cdminter59

Sounds like a good performance motor. Are you using 5.7" or 6" rods? You probably were on the right track to make 550 hp with the mechanical roller. Now with the hyd. roller you chose I would say it might make 500-530 hp with a 850 hp carburetor. You could do some mild porting to your heads and intake, that might help you to get the 550 hp. Not bad for being new!

Thanks I appreciate the info, and I using 5.7 rods scat I beam rods, but I have a question if i was to go with a bigger cam Lift & duration, Could I make more HP & TQ, I just wanted to do HYD Roller for my first engine build, and try to get close to 550hp or better....

For example>>>>>>

565/585 lift duration @.050 244/252

575/590 lift duration @.050 248/254

585/585 lift duration @.050 248/248

[desmosis10]

For my SBC 383 stroker, using afr 210 competition heads compression between 10:5:1 to 10:8:1. Will a Quick fuel 850 cfm Carburetor, 4-Barrel, Booster type>>>Annular Boosters, and the secondary is Mechanical be to much for the street even tho it might give me more HP& TQ. Would it be over kill for my STREET/STRIP engine build like poor throttle responce & not good gas mileage.

[cdminter59]

Read this article. The guy built a 383 550 hp engine. Pay strict attention to all the little details that were involved. Notice the mighty Demon 750 carburetor!

[ap72]

get a 6" rod and a good piston with a thin ring pack and good rings and you'll probably pick up 20hp right there.

For a good budget friendly piston look at Mahle or Probe.

[my87Z]

The cam, and compression are a little low to meet the hp goal you are shooting for. I run a 383 (.040" =385) with a solid roller cam with 255/261° at .050 and .600/.620" with 1.6 rockers, 11.2:1 compression with DART pro 1 215 heads with a fair amount of work done to them, single plane intake, I have both an 850 and a 750 (that's had a bunch of work done to it) double pumpers that i use on it. I had the motor dyno tested before i put it back into the car and i got just over 560hp. As AP mentioned I have the 6.0" rods.

with that cam and the current compression I would say you are in the 500hp range (which aint to shabby)

Now about the comments about the split duration/ dual pattern cams: many cams you see will have a dual pattern on them, this is largely due to heads with poorer flowing exhaust ports. The AFR heads you have do have good exhuast ports so a dual pattern cam is not really of any benefit. At the same time I dont think it's going to hurt anything either.

About what Vinnie is saying, there is never any true replacement for cubic inch displacement, but at the same time you have to be willing to spend the extra 2000-3000 on the parts. Really no 434's are build on OEM cast blocks, and rarely do you find in the DART SHP block, normally they are done on the more expensive aftermarket blocks like the LittleM which is going to run you around 2200.00 then another 200.00 to get it delivered to you. Most rotating assy for the 434 will cost a few hundred more than a 383 rotating assy of the same caliber.

I certainly can't knock Vinnie cause I have wanted to build a 421 SBC for a long time now but I have a hard time spending that much money for block.

[CNC BLOCKS NE]

Originally Posted by desmosis10

I'm using a 1974 4 bolt main block.... My block have been hot tanked, bore and hone, deck clean, and on its way to get a line bore for steel billet main caps that's all I no so far is there anything else to do to gain power????

I understand a solid roller cam will get me more hp and torque, But HYD Roller is that way i'm going. I alread paid for everything I can't really turn back now. Maybe I just need a bigger cam with good duration,What do u think??????

On those AFR heads its a good idea to check the chamber for CC volume as the last set was suppose to be 65 CC and when chacked they were 67.5 CC

On the OEM blocks its a good idea to sonic test for cylinder wall thickness.

Also why are the putting the caps on last as every thing measures of the main.

If your looking at 600 horse it would be a good idea to go to a splayed cap.

If your looking for good ring seal have it plate honed.

[desmosis10]

Originally Posted by ap72

get a 6" rod and a good piston with a thin ring pack and good rings and you'll probably pick up 20hp right there.

For a good budget friendly piston look at Mahle or Probe.

Yeah I was thinking about going with SRP pistons Part # 271055

[ap72]

Originally Posted by desmosis10

Yeah I was thinking about going with SRP pistons Part # 271055

I'd look at getting a longer rod (shorter piston), and a ductile iron or steel ring set.

[desmosis10]

Originally Posted by ap72

I'd look at getting a longer rod (shorter piston), and a ductile iron or steel ring set.

yeah that would be, but I already bought the 5.7 scat forged rods, but i might switch piston and go with the SRP there very good forged pistons 11:1:1 compression .... SRP part#271055 PROFESSIONAL FORGED FLAT TOP PISTONS..... They have very good ratings

[cdminter59]

Here is an article on building a 383 550 hp motor. Notice all the little details done. 550 Horsepower 383 Small Block Chevy - JMac Performance

[desmosis10]

Originally Posted by cdminter59

Here is an article on building a 383 550 hp motor. Notice all the little details done. 550 Horsepower 383 Small Block Chevy - JMac Performance

Thanks I really appreciate the good info u gave me, that really help me. At least I kno now it is possible to get to 550hp with an HYD roller cam .... WOW !! They made 558 Horsepower @ 6300 – 510 ftlb @ 5000 i'm willing to put the detail work in my engine build to get in that range....