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Old 07-31-2010, 10:06 PM
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SBC 400 balancer

Are all the 400 balancers clocked the same? Or are some 2:00 and some 2:30?

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Old 07-31-2010, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg T
Are all the 400 balancers clocked the same? Or are some 2:00 and some 2:30?
Damper Doctor shows only one damper/balancer for the 400. That may not be the scientific answer, but I figure the good doctor would have other listings if they were available....
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHE
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Old 07-31-2010, 11:31 PM
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The 400 should have the 10 TDC mark position from the keyway. And I believe TI is correct- just the one 8" OEM balancer for the 400, AFAIK.

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Old 08-01-2010, 06:47 AM
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Thanx, guys. The reason I ask is that I have purchased a 96 C1500 shortbox with a 388, and I was concerned when I saw the billet timing chain cover and adjustable pointer. The pointer was situated dead center in it's adjustment travel, so I kinda assumed that the dude who assembled the engine just stuck it on there without really checking to see if it was correct. Well, I took the pointer off and used one of those chrome replacement timing tabs in it's place to check to see how close they were for calibration. Not good. When I lined up the TDC mark with 0 on the chrome tab and then reinstalled the adj. pointer it was about 10* off. Adjusting the pointer "down" (towards the drivers side) to the end of it's travel lined it up perfectly with the damper.

So, now I don't really know which one of these is way out of whack. I had the timing set up using what I thought was 18* initial with 18* mechanical all in by 2700 RPM. No signs of detonation, runs great. But I guess the only way to really tell would be a piston stop, huh?
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:12 AM
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Probably wrong pointer for application. As there are several..
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg T
Thanx, guys. The reason I ask is that I have purchased a 96 C1500 shortbox with a 388, and I was concerned when I saw the billet timing chain cover and adjustable pointer. The pointer was situated dead center in it's adjustment travel, so I kinda assumed that the dude who assembled the engine just stuck it on there without really checking to see if it was correct. Well, I took the pointer off and used one of those chrome replacement timing tabs in it's place to check to see how close they were for calibration. Not good. When I lined up the TDC mark with 0 on the chrome tab and then reinstalled the adj. pointer it was about 10* off. Adjusting the pointer "down" (towards the drivers side) to the end of it's travel lined it up perfectly with the damper.

So, now I don't really know which one of these is way out of whack. I had the timing set up using what I thought was 18* initial with 18* mechanical all in by 2700 RPM. No signs of detonation, runs great. But I guess the only way to really tell would be a piston stop, huh?
Correct- it's impossible to say w/any real certainty what is TDC w/o checking for it. The guys here put together a tutorial should it be needed, for doing the check: DETERMINE TDC

Also you can use MAKE A TIMING TAPE to make a temporary timing tape to see what is up w/the total timing and to check the accuracy of the dial back light you may be using.

Good luck.
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Old 08-01-2010, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Correct- it's impossible to say w/any real certainty what is TDC w/o checking for it. The guys here put together a tutorial should it be needed, for doing the check: DETERMINE TDC

Also you can use MAKE A TIMING TAPE to make a temporary timing tape to see what is up w/the total timing and to check the accuracy of the dial back light you may be using.

Good luck.
There's already a timing tape on the balancer. And the pointer comes as part of the billet timing cover set. So, there is really no way to put another tab or pointer on there that would look right. I'm guessing thats why they make them adjustable. The problem is that I am certain the dude didn't check TDC while he had the heads off.
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Old 08-01-2010, 04:16 PM
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Hmmmmm, don't know why I can't edit my post.

The pointer is THIS and the timing cover is THIS. It should be right. I just don't know how to set it up properly without pulling the left head.
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:00 AM
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You don't really need to replace the pointer, just set it accurately to TDC.

I asked about the post edit thing- the time limit to edit a post has been shortened radically, the thing is- no one seems to know why... possibly a glitch in the software?
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
You don't really need to replace the pointer, just set it accurately to TDC.

I asked about the post edit thing- the time limit to edit a post has been shortened radically, the thing is- no one seems to know why... possibly a glitch in the software?

Well this is what I thought I was doing when I replaced just the pointer with one of THESE. I set the balancer on the 0 mark, then put the adjustable pointer back on and zero'd the pointer to the balancer. But, in doing so, it would appear that my total timing at present is about 40* because I timed it using the pointer in the default shipping position. So now I don't know if the chrome timing tab is incorrect or the engine is actually running at 40* BTDC. And I really don't want to pull a head just to find true TDC.
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:39 AM
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You can get a piston stop that screws into a spark plug hole, or make one from an old spark plug.
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Old 08-02-2010, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
You can get a piston stop that screws into a spark plug hole, or make one from an old spark plug.

Yeah, I thought about that too. Was hoping there was a quicker trick because I have to pull the header to do that. And being a fully welded exhaust system ther is a little tension on the pipes that would make it nearly impossible to get the header bolts back in. But I think that may be the only way to tell for certain.
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Old 08-02-2010, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg T
Yeah, I thought about that too. Was hoping there was a quicker trick because I have to pull the header to do that. And being a fully welded exhaust system ther is a little tension on the pipes that would make it nearly impossible to get the header bolts back in. But I think that may be the only way to tell for certain.
You can also use cylinder #6. If you have a degreed damper, ANY cylinder will work, as long as it's covered by the degreeing.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:34 AM
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6 is a bit easier to get at. Guess I'll have to just do it. I can't keep guessing. Thanx!
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