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Old 02-12-2010, 06:40 AM
Intense RT Intense RT is offline
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Originally Posted by Rickracer
A trick I've used a time or two on troublesome 2 piece seals is to sand the ends of both seals a bit, lay a thin shim (like .010"?) in the block and the main cap, to shim the seal inward, and use a dab of RTV (or better yet, now there is Right Stuff) on the ends of they seal halves where they meet, along with a little RTV smeared on the OD of the seal. Might sound a little cobbled up, but it cured a seal that still leaked after having been replaced twice.
I've cured a bunch of timing cover lip seal leaks with brakleen and some Right Stuff. Clean the whole area up surgically clean with brakleen, then smear the Right Stuff in the gap, (as if you were packing a wheel bearing, no air gaps), finish by making a nice smooth "smile" on the joint between the cover and the pan. It WORKS,
I had to do that on the dyno..Had an LA 360 pan on a newer Magnum and the rear cap and timing cover are very slightly different shape on the sealing surfaces. On assembly I trimmed a '99 Magnum one piece pan gasket to fit the rear pan lip where it seals up. Added a little Right Stuff. My first build of a Magnum block so didn't think about the front matching up. At the corners up front there was a step opening up that's not there on the factory magnum pan. Just brake cleaned it off well and shoved the Right Stuff nozzle in a bit and filled each hole on either side. Let it sit overnight since we were done that day. Came back in next day, made some pulls with no leaks.
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