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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2008, 09:22 PM
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No baffles in the valve covers but I do have baffled grommets under the filters. And I guess I was wrong earlier when I said I currently have 3 breather + a pcv. I have 2 breathers in the left and only a pcv in the right but no baffle or anything to stop oil from being sucked up the pcv. My oil pan is a 7qt for sure. I put 6 in and it is at or just below the bottom of the "safe zone". I'm definetly going to look into the pcv system before I go any further.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2008, 08:07 AM
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more opinion than tested fact:

I don't like or use those roughly 80 durameter rubber baffles because soaked with oil and hot they "can possibly" collapse and restrict the breath....
(the small opening "lip" is limper than a "you know what" if you poured 200* oil on it!)
if that does happen the pcv will suck unfiltered air and dirt in thru the dipstick tube or where ever....

"if" a $.02 cost rubber baffle could work,,,the oems wouldn't spend $2 on (pretty sophisticated design) metal baffles....
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2008, 04:54 PM
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Ok so I went out and bought an air compressor air/water seperator, took out the 40 micro filter and put it in line between my pcv and carb. I then drove about 10 mi. lots of stop and go. At first it still smoked quite a bit but then after just a few miles I didn't see any more smoke. The last time I started it just before going to put it up I didn't even notice any smoke on start up. It was kind of windy so hard to be 100% sure. Just before I got to the garage I was cruisn about 30mph, maybe 1/4 throttle, I then "goosed" it (from 1/4 to about 1/2 and then completely off throttle), rpms went from about 2g to 4g and then right to 1500 (still in gear) and then I finally seen some smoke again. Maybe some still inside the intake runners? I would say 6 of the 10 mi. I didn't see any smoke at all. Oh yea, that seperator had almost a shot glass of oil in it, I think that is about 2oz. I'm going to drive some more before making any more changes.
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Old 10-27-2008, 12:14 PM
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"follow the instructions" (please!)

with the filter removed,,,there's nothing to stop the oil from "wicking" big time across from the inlet to outlet openings on the compressor dryer and going into the intake at high Hg and velocity....
(the jar is acting as a "vacuum accumulator" not a oil accumulator)

that's why I said to use a "longer and shorter" fitting into a peanut butter jar....

(grrrr.....after 30 minutes plus to find the one I made...grrrrr....then 20 minutes sorting out a software conflict to download this pic....grrrrr)
here's a pic showing that I cut off about half of the filter so any incoming oil from the pcv is directed at and trapped in the bottem of jar....

with no tube to direct the oil in the jar, no surprise at all that it puffed a bit after 10 miles due to the "wicking" since you did manage to trap 2oz in just 10 miles!!!!

yes,,,it will take some miles for the gas to clean and flush the accumulated oil out of the intake and chambers....

LOL (but serious), 2oz in 10 miles!!!! = make a accumulator out of a "32oz mayonaise jar",,,, even a 8oz jar peanut butter jar would fill up too quick!!!!
footnote:
the "tiny" compressor based accumulator jar worked OK for me because I was only sorting out a slight WOT full rich mix smoke puff, which did turn out to be a pcv baffle problem, oil accumulated in the intake, the rich WOT mix flushed it out....

even done wrong with no tube, the first test does indicate the pcv is very very likely the main oiling source....
the good news!!!!:
that's just a time and patience and no bucks fix to make some baffles out of scrap sheet steel or aluminum and mess with the shape till it works based on where the pcv sits on the cover and the rockers clearance...
the baffle added to those Edelbrock Elite covers in the pic' is approx 3x3", it's tight to the intake side curve on the cover (so oil can't run onto the baffle) and has less than a 1/8" gap along the 3" width at the headers side cover curve with a approx 3/8" lip facing down the curve just for more insurance.....
the sides extend well past the mount screw boss so I could bend them tight to the cover by hand once it was mounted so the only air is from the small gap at the lowest point...
the opening in the pcv valve is small so the open gap can be pretty small and not restict the cfm....
it took me 3 tries to get it right,,,, I stuck the "pretty good" second try under the breather filter because it does sit on a roughly 3" piece of heater hose to catch cool air from the hood opening (FL heat!) so oiling is no problem at all....

dang CRS=there is a way to mount the pcv on the chevy block and get it away from that rocker oil completely but I can't recall how!!!!
it's on this board many times on many threads,,,try using the "search" link
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2008, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derekg383
No baffles in the valve covers but I do have baffled grommets under the filters. And I guess I was wrong earlier when I said I currently have 3 breather + a pcv. I have 2 breathers in the left and only a pcv in the right but no baffle or anything to stop oil from being sucked up the pcv. My oil pan is a 7qt for sure. I put 6 in and it is at or just below the bottom of the "safe zone". I'm definetly going to look into the pcv system before I go any further.
Until you get a baffle in the PCV valve cover, the PCV valve will be sucking oil. Do you have an aftermarket oil pan? The factory pan is 5 quarts.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2008, 04:12 PM
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Yea Miloden 7qt deep sump oil pan. Although it seems I have to fabricate EVERYTHING (I've heard of bolt on but never seen it) I think its time for some new valve covers anyway, this time w/ bafffles. Will any of the popular valve covers w/ baffles clear my rocker arms. They are Comp. alum. roller 1.6 and the cam has .540/.562 lift. Oh and my instruction following skills are not very good
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Old 10-27-2008, 05:31 PM
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I've got an oil pan that's advertised as 10 quarts and it holds 8. The next time you change oil, put in 6 quarts, start the engine to fill the oil filter, shut the engine down, then check the oil. Keep adding 1 quart until you reach the full mark.

You'll need tall valve covers to clear the roller rockers.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2008, 05:48 PM
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I'm sure the last time I changed oil it took 6 1/2 to fill after starting and filling the filter (actually I fill my filter before I put it on). What are the chances of my dipstick or tube being wrong? I plan on tall covers, I really want holes for 2 breathers on the left side (to avoid any customizing) and a hole for pcv on the right. Moroso has the only I've seen but I'm not sure there are any holes in the right side valve cover.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2008, 06:24 PM
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Chevy used several dip sticks over the years, so................. but 6 1/2 quarts for a 7 quart pan sounds right. You only need one breather. The valve covers are interchangabe, left and right.
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:32 AM
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derek,
your checking to see that the top edge of the dipstick "tube" length to the top of the oil in the pan is a match for the total length to the dipstick itself marks....

if there is to much oil in the pan the crankshaft throws will dip into the oil (accelerating/decelerating slosh) and throw a hurricane's worth of oil onto the cylinder walls in just an instant....which the oil rings aren't designed to handle....

just comments:
buyin' stuff and just boltin' it on a car isn't "Hot
Rodding" to me....
if those covers aren't warped, they do seal good,,,,give making a baffle atleast a shot.....
so you have money in your pocket to add a windage tray for better oil control or some other power adder that is a bit of a PITA to make yourself....
(as long as you use a peanut butter jar and remember to empty it {LOL, I would forget to!} all is fine while you work out the baffle)

I do like the rubber/steel reinforced cover gaskets,,,with just normal care, you can take the covers off a dozen times and they still will seal good without any help on non-warped covers...
a definite plus while working out the baffle shape...
(they do conduct a bit more head heat into the covers to help cool the chambers versus "excellent heat insulator" cork gaskets)

the baffle design included in many of the aftermkt covers is almost worthless crap (a too small flat piece of sheet with a big gap on both sides)
so shop carefully....
clears the rockers is #1 priority,
the pcv hole "NOT" aligned with the rockers is my #2 (why they do that is beyond stupid!)
do a gooogle search like: "best chevy pcv oil control baffle covers"

have a oil pan custom made for your specific motor for $$$ would be a bolt on,,,the cheaper off the shelf stuff has to "be able to" work for to many different applications...

drive safe, have fun....
Red
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2008, 10:40 AM
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If you thinks its the rings try a leak down test at TDC and if they are over 7% on a new engine some thing is wrong.
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS NE
If you thinks its the rings try a leak down test at TDC and if they are over 7% on a new engine some thing is wrong.
I'll give that a shot but only if my current and very obvious pcv issue doesn't completely resolve the problem.
I must definetly be hotrodding because I seem to be customizing everything. I spend more time trying to find the stuff that Will bolt on than it would take to alter something to fit (probably just lack of experience). The windage tray I had required longer main studs than I already bought and would be as much as 3 more months before anyone would have them (I know, lame excuse). And the valve covers are some cheap chrome ones that are starting to spot rust and may be warped ("torque spec, whats that?" jk). Probably good for test subjects on trying out my baffle making skills.
Trying not to jinx myself but I think fixing the pcv deal will solve my current problem. I'll try out some baffles and drive some more this wknd.
Seriously thanks everyone but especially red65mustang (I guess ford guys aren't all that bad, lol jk).
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2008, 08:47 AM
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derek,
(for everybody who posted and helped)
thanks for saying thanks,,,,way to many people on this board never do,,,,they just disappear.....

nah, I don't "bleed Blue", there's good and bad in any brand.....
(the 65' fastback is kind of a "heirloom" project, I got my first license in my dad's new 65' fastback and it will be handed down to my grandson,,,,plus my dad got to enjoy this one some before he passed away)

footnote:
(agreeing with CNC)
after about 500 break in miles on a new motor...
it is a smart move to do a leak down and/or compression test and WRITE DOWN the results.....
for future testing reference data!!!!
(even if there are no problems)

post a method and results update later on????
"crummy covers" comes up on this board pretty often.....
may just help someone else

Last edited by red65mustang; 10-29-2008 at 08:54 AM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2008, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derekg383
Freshly built 383 all new. I have to add 1/2 qt oil every weekend (about 50 mi. cruising). Blue smoke starting and on decelleration but not while idling, cruising, or on hard accel. Had to put in 3 air filter breathers in valve covers and a PCV to carb to keep valve cover gaskets sealed. Any ideas?
Classic symptom of oil getting down the intake valve guides.

- Look for missing or defective stem seal.

- Guide to stem clearance excessive.

Bogie
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2008, 05:00 PM
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I plan on changing plugs when I do the compression & leakdown tests. Can't find the plugs I use locally (Autolite 3923 race plug) have to order.
Kind of off the subject but should I use race plugs on the street? I run a colder plug for nitrous.
Anyway, I'll definetly post the results asap.
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